valve adj

[curt]

I plan to check valve adj tomorrow. I can not find my book, what is the valve clearance, hot and cold? Also spark plug gap? 1963 289 V8 block.

[N8N]

spark plug gap .035" unless you have an electronic or CD ignition, then you can open them up a little. Valve clearances .023-.025" hot and running; .025-.027" cold.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[curt]

Nate, it worked fine. I used the firing order and made sure the damper moved 90 degrees as you stated in the e-mail. I used a remote starter button to turn the engine, with plugs out. I hooked a light from the + on the coil ( wire to the dist) to ground. Took the dist cap off so I could watch the cap rotate. When the light lit the rotor points to the proper cylinder. To double check as I left each cylinder I put my finger over the plug hole, a vacuum says I'm on the fiting order TDC. This assumes the timing is correct. I found three valves to adj, each was open too much. I think 'she' will be a mite less noisy. I used .026 with engine cold. Some day I hope to see someone adj valves hot, it sounds like a good way to go .

[Mike Van Veghten]

Curt..

For what it may be worth, you have done your valve adjustment setup about the best way you can.
Per the firing order and cold.
The actual use of the feeler gages are another matter. I've seen people use two hands to force the gage in place....obviously that aint right!


Hot is fine....but its time consuming in keeping a similar heat the full time it take you to do the all 16 valves. It can be a "pain" if you're not carefull!!!

EVERY...engine ever produced....it's first startup had the valves done cold...so you did fine.

[MarkC]

For what it's worth, rather than hook up a light to the points, I just marked the balancer in 90 degree increments (starting at TDC) and turned it by hand (with the plugs out) between marks. If you're careful, this is easily done and mechanically correct. And, it eliminates any static advance setting you may have in the distributor from the equation. Just one other way... Your method may vary.

MarkC

MarkC, 64 Y8
Working in Spokane, WA

[curt]

Mark, how do you turn the crank on a V-8 President 1955 State? I can not get my hanhs down on the pulleys or a socket on to the crank-bolt. Thension on the belt slips and then I can go only move the pulley one direction.

[MarkC]

Curt, sorry. My car is a Lark type without air or P/S and I can reach the balancer and crank bolt. Looks like your best way to rotate it is the remote starter switch that you've already used.

MarkC, 64 Y8
Working in Spokane, WA

[curt]

ONE old valve covers gaskets leaked( just one) after the adjustment job. So, I used Chev small block valve cover gaskets, Indian Gasket Sealer on the cover side ,just enough to hold the gasket ; then put the cover on and bloted the cover down, no leak! I am ordering the Studebaker gaskets to have on hand for the next time around . I did the valve adj on the spur of the moment. ?????Question, I did not cut the tab on the Chev gasket for it looks to be out of the way, any ideas , cut or not cut?????

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by MarkC

For what it's worth, rather than hook up a light to the points, I just marked the balancer in 90 degree increments (starting at TDC) and turned it by hand (with the plugs out) between marks. If you're careful, this is easily done and mechanically correct. And, it eliminates any static advance setting you may have in the distributor from the equation. Just one other way... Your method may vary.

MarkC

Thanks Mark! I am glad someone has already tried marking the vibration damper. I put HEI distributors in my cars several years ago and now I need some way besides the light to know when to stop turning the crank. I thought of marking the the vibration damper, but haven't yet tried it and the cars are long overdue for a valve adjustment.

Dale

[N8N]

Dale,

marking the balancer is the way to go, but if you don't have the balancer off the car you can just get it close by guesstimating and then verify by wiggling the pushrods that you are really on compression stroke. The cam isn't radical enough that you need to get it 100% right, you will still be on the base of the cam even if you're off by a few degrees.

I like to adjust the valves, run the engine over a few complete revs with the remote starter switch, and then check everything again. Also valve clearance is really not super crucial just as long as you don't have any too tight, although obviously an engine with nice consistent valve clearances will run a little tiny bit smoother than one with them a little off.

Honestly, this is not like an aircooled VW where if you don't check for stretch at every oil change you end up burning an exhaust valve, Studes are pretty robust. In fact I have heard of people deliberately setting the valves tighter than spec to pick up a little duration without ill effect. I don't do that myself but enough people do that it must not be a big deal.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by N8N

Dale, marking the balancer is the way to go, but if you don't have the balancer off the car you can just get it close by guesstimating and then verify by wiggling the pushrods that you are really on compression stroke.
nate

Heh, easier said than done. I'm an excessive compulsive perfectionist, but I'll try to guesstimate!

I agree that it is asking for trouble to set the valves tighter than specs call for. I'd rather have the valves too loose than too tight (within reason).

Dale