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Oil leakimg Hawk

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  • Oil leakimg Hawk

    My 63 Hawk has the rear main seal oil leak. It used to be a few drops but getting worse. Can the oil pan be dropped down to replace this seal or time to pull the motor? I will have to get one of the local shops for this job and they all have different ideas.
    Whats the best way to go?

    Rick

  • #2
    First, make damned sure it's the rear main seal that's the culprit. Just because it's leaking off the back of the engine doesn't automatically pin the blame on the main seal.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      You can drop the pan in the car & change the seal without engine removal.I've done it lots because they didn't make a Studebaker that
      did not leak or rust out.Make sure the lip on the new rear main seal halves face the motor not the trans. & don't forget the little squares of cork for each side.The main crank bearings have to be loosened to facilitate instalation,them re-torqued to specs
      Good-Luck & welcome to Studebakering
      PS-don't be surprized if it sweats a bit of oil even with the new seal

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      • #4
        before you pull the pan, check the valve cover gaskets, the distributor gasket, and the little rubber line to the oil pressure gauge...

        yes you can drop the pan in the car but you may need to remove the center pivot for the steering

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        62 Daytona hardtop
        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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        • #5
          All of N8N's ideas are correct possibilities, but I find the most common is the oil pan rear arch gasket improperly installed or baked hard and badly leaking at rear of pan like a main seal would. You would have to pull the converter housing (or Clutch housing) front cover with engine hot because it requires removing the starter to check to see if, after wiping the the rear main cap dry it leaks or is coming from the (lower) pan arch gasket. And of course you no longer could start the engine to warm it up and make it leak.
          This could save you a lot of work as you don't have to loosen the main bearings and work the old seal out and install a new one if the pan is the culpert! Rich.

          StudeRich
          Ferndale, WA
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            Forgot to mention; Studebaker used rubber valve cover gaskets as a service part, I think they are still available. If you have cork you should really replace them with rubber, this way you won't have to buy new gaskets every time you adjust your valves.

            If you can't find them, I believe they are made for small block Chevys as well, although you'll have to cut off the tabs for the bolt holes to get them to fit in Stude covers. (unless you have aluminum)

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            62 Daytona hardtop
            http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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            • #7
              Just got a set of rubber valve cover gaskets from Chuck Collins in Phoenix--StudebakerParts.com

              jj

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