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  • hmm

    where can i locate motor mounts for a small block to fit the frame either front or mid

    brent wood nh

  • #2
    several of the vendors have motor mounts, Which ever person you like the best call, I know Michael has put the small block chevy in the Avanti and the Hawk, he is always willing to help out if you need some advice or technical help.
    Good Luck and enjoy!!!


    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by bills 57 champion

      where can i locate motor mounts for a small block to fit the frame either front or mid

      brent wood nh
      There are no "bolt in" mounts for a 57-58. For early Lark types, you can use the '65-66 mounts. There are several "hot rod" type vendors that sell universal mounts for a SBC (Chassis Engineering for one), but you'll have to modify them to fit. You'll also have to fabricate or modify the transmission crossmember/mount also.

      Keep in mind that if you mount the SBC off the front (like a 55-57 Chevy), you should mount the rear from the bellhousing (like a 55-57 Chevy)...not from the transmision like a later Chevy. If you mount from the middle of the block like a later Chevy, you should mount the rear off the transmission.

      Don't get me wrong, Bill, I have installed a Chevy V8 in my '54 and love it, but keep in mind you have a big project ahead of you. Unless you are a good fabricator and have some experience with engine swaps, it can be an expensive and frustrating experience.

      Along with the motor mounts and transmission mounts, you're going to want to position the engine/trans with the following in mind...hood clearance, floor clearance, steering box and front steering pivot clearance, distributor clearance, drive shaft angle, left to right placement ('s not centered), and exhaust clearance). The rear end will not hold the power of the Chevy V8 so you will need to upgrade (Dana 44 will be the easiest swap). The brakes will be inadequate for the V8 so you will need to update to Stude V8 brakes or one of the disk brake conversions out there. You'll need to modify the driveshaft (length and front yoke). You'll need to "invent" and fabricate transmission linkage, throttle linkage, exhaust system, bigger cooling system, changes to the electrical system, trans kick down linkage (or clutch linkage), and fuel delivery.

      It's certainly not impossible. Many have been done. But I'd venture to say that there are more abandoned engine swaps out there than completed ones.

      If you really want a SBC in your Stude, go for it! I did. But if you are looking to save some money by so doing, you are probably in for a disapointment.


      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA


      • #4

        Go to a local speedshop that specializes in Dirt Track racing. A company named AFCO makes a side-mount bracket that fits on a Chevy small block, and is meant to move a Chevy engine backwards 2" in a chassis (Monte Carlo or Chevelle) for better weight distribution. The mounts have flanges on them that come forward instead of going straight out. These mounts have the effect of positioning the bolt location for the engine mount just about where it needs to be on a Studebaker(the original mounting location)! Herman Gant, who has a '53 coupe seen in the pages of Turning Wheels told me of this trick, and it works....beside that, they're only about $30-40/set!

        The "HURST" style mount works good, but an original is impossible to find.


        • #5
          One more thing....use a Ford 9" rear...a Cougar rear from the mid-80's is under mine, although it had to be narrowed. I know a guy in my area that specializes in this. He takes Econoline axles and resplines them to get the narrowed axles you will need.

          To mount the rear on the original Studebaker springs, go to Speedway Motors, and order a set of axle mounting plates for less than $25 and weld them on the Ford rear where they need to be to set on the Studebaker springs.

          Turner also makes a good kit that uses Mustang Rotors and GM Clipers, so you have Ford Wheel profiles all around with this swap.


          • #6
            I don't think a Dana 44 will be that hard to source. I like Ford 9" rear ends but they are not cheap (for new) or easily swapped (older). The newer Ford 8.8" unit under the Ranger and Mustang would be a good for up to 450 HP.

            The trans linkage, depending on the transmission can be worked around. Newer transmissions (manual) use hydralic clutch actuation and should not be hard to mount. And transmissions like the T-5 or T-56 use internal rail linkage for shifting.

            For an automatic, B & M and Lokar make numerous parts for shifters and shifting. Lokar also sells cable linkages for various stuff.

            As for motor mounts, I think I remember Speedway Motors selling Chevybaker mounts that bolt right in. I might be wrong, but I'd check there.

            Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

            Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

            1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
            Tom - Bradenton, FL

            1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
            1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD