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rearend width

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  • rearend width

    I recently purchased a 62 Hawk. I find that the rearend is so wide that most aftermarket wheels won't clear the fenders. I have it figured out to be about 59" face to face. Is there a bolt-in rear that measures 55" to 57"? I thought maybe a Lark? The car is all original so I'm hesitant to drop in a nine. Also wondering how much higher a ratio is out there than a 3:31; like maybe a 2:73. One more question: can I swap an FMX valve body in this Flight-O-Matic to achieve first gear starts? Or is there even an easier way?

  • #2
    Lark & Hawk use the same rear axle assembly
    No, you can't simply bolt in an FMX valve body and have 1st gear start. There ARE 1st gear start valve bodies available for the Flight-o' and you need to change the tranny's governor as well to make them do the 1-2 shift in an acceptable manner.
    The leggiest rear ratio Stude offered was 3.07. Leggier gears that would fit your type 44 CAN be had - it's just that Studebaker never used them.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

      Lark & Hawk use the same rear axle assembly
      No, you can't simply bolt in an FMX valve body and have 1st gear start. There ARE 1st gear start valve bodies available for the Flight-o' and you need to change the tranny's governor as well to make them do the 1-2 shift in an acceptable manner.
      The leggiest rear ratio Stude offered was 3.07. Leggier gears that would fit your type 44 CAN be had - it's just that Studebaker never used them.

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      To add to Mr. Biggs...a Ford 9" won't "drop in". You'll have to have it narrowed to even get down to stock Studebaker dimensions then deal with spring perches, shock mounts, pinion angle, drive shaft length and yokes, service and e-brake hookups.

      Wide wheels will fit if most of the offset is to the inside. There is plenty of room between the drum face and spring, but not much between the drum face and fender.

      Your current axle is a Dana 44. Very common. 2.73's are available for this axle. (but you may need a carrier change below 2.87).

      -Dick-
      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA

      Comment


      • #4
        The only Ford 9" that will bolt in is out of a 57-59 Ford. Good luck trying to find one. You can bolt aftermarket wheels on your car they have to have at least a 3 3/4" back space for 6" rims and 4 3/4" back spacing for 7" rims. Even then you will be very close to the fender lip, but this will give you a little guide line.

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by Alan

          The only Ford 9" that will bolt in is out of a 57-59 Ford.
          Even then, IIRC, you only get the stock Stude width...not any narrower, and you're still dealing with spring perches, shock mounts, and brake hookups. A 9" (especially Alan's suggestion of a 57-59 Ford) is a fine swap, a strong rear end, makes changing gear ratios easier, but probably not necessary if you're sticking with under 400 HP or so (Mr. Harbit would probably say the Dana 44 is good for a few more than 400 HP). Over 400 HP and you're going to want to narrow it anyhow to get some tires under the car that will hold the power.

          -Dick-
          Dick Steinkamp
          Bellingham, WA

          Comment


          • #6
            Dick, When I said bolt in I mean bolt in. U-bolts, shock bracket. everything. The spring holes are only 1/4"-1/2" off centerline, just move the springs a little. Sometimes you don't have to move them at all. The 2 things that get you are the emergency brake cables which I get from Locar, it is much easier and less time to just buy their stainless steel stuff. The other is the u-joint yoke , there were 3 different sizes and types depending on what car they were on. Back in the old days I had to stay ahead of Currie because he was going around buying everything. But again this was for a 53 or 54 K, I do not know if the Lark and Hawks were diamensionaly the same. I think they are but I have been wrong before and will be the first to admit it.

            Comment


            • #7
              If you want to go the wheel route, check www.earlywheel.com, they have about anything you can think of, instructions on how to measure back space,etc., and a reasonably priced, good quality product.

              jj

              Comment


              • #8
                Ferd Ranger pickup truck rear axle is 51 3/4 wide, and the bolt pattern on the drum brakes is the same as a Stude car, 5 on 4 1/2. Plus, the ranger base model wheels are the ones that look stock for the Stude and mount the full size wheel covers without modification. It also has 9" drum brakes. You will have to weld on new spring perches, and grind off some extra brackets and stuff - it isn't really a bolt on, but real close. Ferd 8 7/8" rear, plenty strong for must applications.

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by Alan

                  Dick, When I said bolt in I mean bolt in. U-bolts, shock bracket. everything.
                  Cool!![8D]

                  -Dick-
                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Calvin Lowell has one of those '57 Ford 9" 28 spline housings for sale (with axles)...in Jax, FL
                    His e-mail is: Oldcarfart@aol.com


                    quote:Originally posted by Alan

                    The only Ford 9" that will bolt in is out of a 57-59 Ford. Good luck trying to find one. You can bolt aftermarket wheels on your car they have to have at least a 3 3/4" back space for 6" rims and 4 3/4" back spacing for 7" rims. Even then you will be very close to the fender lip, but this will give you a little guide line.
                    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                    Jeff


                    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      ok, I'm starting to figure on narrowing the stock rearend. Do I hafta pull the drums to get the axles out? Will they push in far enough to get the clips off? Then I can see if the splines go far enough to cut a coupla inches off. I just don't wanna pull the drums off the axles if I really can get around it. Don't worry; my buddy's got a lathe, so we'll be sure to get the housing straight. As far as that tranny, my pan is leakin so I'm gonna take it apart and see what I can do with that valve body; maybe call Gil Younger over at TransGo.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Go to a wrecking yard and check out a Maverick rear-end. They are a couple inches narrower, use the same wheel bolt pattern, are reasonably strong, come with ratios close to what you seek, have flanged axles, compatible brakes, and are pretty much a bolt-in job. I know at least a couple SDC'ers using this rear-end and they are very happy with it.

                        Dwain G.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'd have to vote for the Ranger 8.8 Ford rear end. Yes you gotta move the spring perches and with a little enlarging of the lower stock spring/shock mounts its pretty simple. Plus you get more clearence for tires, the same wheel bolt pattern it looks very close to original and the drive shaft will bolt right up. Just my opinion, Good Luck

                          Darryl C. Lewallen
                          Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have the 8" ford Maverick rear in my '53 K. The design is like the 9" with the removeable gear carrier, only smaller. The width is appx 1-1/2" narrower than the original rear in my car was (model 27). This is measured on the face of the drums where the rims sets. The spring perches have to be moved if you use this rear. If you run stock stude rims, the rear track will be too narrow (tho it will "fit"). I put in longer studs and 1/2" wheel spacers along with the 6" wide crown vic rims to get my track width back to near stock. I am not running a hot engine or I'd have not done the spacers.

                            If you are getting a 8.8" from a ranger, I think those are only in the 4x4 models. I have a '87 ranger 4x2 and those have the 7.5" rear. 7.5" ford rears are no good for anything with serious power and will not last. When the turbo thunderbirds in the 80's increased the HP rating from about 150 to 200 between the '86 and '87 models they changed from using the 7.5" to the 8.8". V8 mustangs also use it. Be aware that the 8.8" and the 8" are completely different design. The 8.8" has integral gears and is not a quick swap out if you want a different ratio. You need to dismantle it and dial in the gears, etc.

                            Jeff

                            '53 Champion Hardtop

                            Jeff in ND

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                            • #15
                              I was hoping you would jump in Jeff, thank you. Hey, did you get an email from me last week?

                              Dwain G.

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