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Removing a broken tapered axle

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  • Removing a broken tapered axle

    I have removed tapered axles many times, but never one that has broken at the backing plate. How do I get the remaining shaft (the end with the splines) out of the axle tube without an end to pull on? Do I break the bearing and then fish out the pieces after the axle shaft is removed? Any help would be appreciated. I have a set of the new flanged axles due to arrive any day.

    The car is a '64 Cruiser with Dana 44 positrac diffential.

    Dale

  • #2
    [?] Dale: Is it broken off more-or-less flush with the outside of the bearing? Or is it broken inside the axle housing so there is nothing currently sticking through the center of the wheel bearing? [xx(] BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    Ayn Rand:
    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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    • #3
      The first idea that comes to mind is to drill a small hole straight into the axle shaft and try to use a bodyman's slide hammer with a long sheetmetal screw; however, I have never tried to drill into one of those axles so I do not know how difficult that would be.

      good luck,

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      62 Daytona hardtop
      http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
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      • #4
        All that should really be holding this in place is the bearing race on that side. Why couldn't you take the backing plate off the opposite side (probably you already have since you're going to install new axles)and give it some >judicious< tapping to get the race on the broken side started out?
        If you could get that race out JUST A BIT, you might be able to lever it the rest of the way out using hefty screwdrivers or such. Once you get the race out, you should be able to snag that roller bearing easy enough to yank on it and pull the axle on out.
        Don't for get the thrust block that's between the axle ends! Likely it'll drop down when you extract the broken axle.[:I]

        Of course, my comments are based on the assumption that this thing broke OUTSIDE the bearing - and not inside. STILL, tapping on the opposite axle might just cause the broken part to pop out of the splines if it's broken INSIDE the tube.

        Miscreant at large.

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        1957 President 2-dr
        1955 President State
        1951 Champion Biz cpe
        1963 Daytona project FS
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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        • #5
          If he can lay the car up for a few days it would be best to pull the rear cover clean and inspect the gears and just reach in there and push the axle out from the center, then he can clean and paint the cover ,put a new gasket on it or even get a chrome one from a 4 wheel drive place and paint some b***s on it.

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          • #6
            Drilling an axle is easy. Axles aren't hard all the way thru. They can't be...they'd be too brittle.

            Anyway the slide hammer works fine. What ever the thread is in the end of the shaft, drill and tap the same thread into the axle. Cut the threads off of a standard fastener of the same thread size. Screw it into the slidehammer about half way, then insert and screw the rest into the axle end. A coupla whacks should do it.

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            • #7
              WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DANA 44 AND A DANA 27 REAR END ?

              Studebaker Fever
              60 Lark
              51 Champion
              Phil

              Studebaker Fever
              60 Lark
              56 Power Hawk
              Phil Hendrickson
              Arnold, Missouri

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              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by 60Lark

                WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DANA 44 AND A DANA 27 REAR END ?

                Studebaker Fever
                60 Lark
                51 Champion
                Phil
                Mainly, size of the component parts and therefore strength of the assembly.
                Gary L.
                Wappinger, NY

                SDC member since 1968
                Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                • #9
                  17 something or others

                  quote:Originally posted by 60Lark

                  WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DANA 44 AND A DANA 27 REAR END ?

                  Studebaker Fever
                  60 Lark
                  51 Champion
                  Phil
                  ________________________
                  Mark Anderson
                  1965 Cruiser
                  http://home.alltel.net/anderm

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                  • #10
                    Are the housing and covers physically different or will they interchange?
                    Other than the 17 something or others[)]

                    Studebaker Fever
                    60 Lark
                    51 Champion
                    Phil

                    Studebaker Fever
                    60 Lark
                    56 Power Hawk
                    Phil Hendrickson
                    Arnold, Missouri

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                    • #11
                      The Dana 27 was used on the 6cyl. & some but not all 259 V/8's
                      The gears are lighter & not as strong as a 44 as used on the 289ci.
                      Yes the gear covers are different & one will not fit on the other.
                      If you look at the "pumpkin-seal" parts #'s in the vendor listings they are different.The Dana 27 will work in your Hawk but you will have to play with spring shackle U bolts & possibly drive shaft length
                      This swap is not recommended becaue of the lighter duty rating of the 27

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                      • #12

                        Just weld a bolt to it and yank it out with a slide hammer/dent puller (with a bolt adapter). Just make sure the backing plate bolts are removed.
                        Jeff[8D]



                        quote:Originally posted by blackhawk

                        I have removed tapered axles many times, but never one that has broken at the backing plate. How do I get the remaining shaft (the end with the splines) out of the axle tube without an end to pull on? Do I break the bearing and then fish out the pieces after the axle shaft is removed? Any help would be appreciated. I have a set of the new flanged axles due to arrive any day.

                        The car is a '64 Cruiser with Dana 44 positrac diffential.

                        Dale
                        DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
                        '37 Coupe Express
                        '37 Coupe Express Trailer
                        '61 Hawk

                        http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
                        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                        Jeff


                        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                        • #13
                          Reading the initial question again, I see this part more clearly now. "Do I break the bearing and then fish out the pieces after the axle shaft is removed?"

                          With the brake backing plate removed, the main thing that retains the axle shaft is the bearing race. That race is only a slip fit into the end of the axle housing. It may be that you have to resort to the slide hammer approach but my notion is that if you can pry that race out (after all, it's seperate from the tapered bearing that rides on it[:I]), it should be pretty easy to extract what's left of the axle. The splined part has very little grip on the shaft's end.

                          Let's hope Blackhawk comes back here to enlighten us as to what progress, if any, has been made.

                          Miscreant at large.

                          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                          1960 Larkvertible V8
                          1958 Provincial wagon
                          1953 Commander coupe
                          1957 President 2-dr
                          1955 President State
                          1951 Champion Biz cpe
                          1963 Daytona project FS
                          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by blackhawk

                            I have removed tapered axles many times, but never one that has broken at the backing plate. How do I get the remaining shaft (the end with the splines) out of the axle tube without an end to pull on? Do I break the bearing and then fish out the pieces after the axle shaft is removed? Any help would be appreciated. I have a set of the new flanged axles due to arrive any day. The car is a '64 Cruiser with Dana 44 positrac diffential. Dale
                            Thanks everyone for all the creative ideas. I didn't mean to abandon this thread. It was just a long day at work and our time is 1-4 hours earlier than yours, depending on where you are in the country. Anyway, regarding the broken axle. Yes, it broke outboard of the outer bearing, pretty much flush with the backing plate. I have digital photos, but don't think I can post them because I do not have a web site to link to.

                            I spoke with my brother about this. He broke axles a couple times years ago when he was hotrodding around with a modified 289 in his Hawk. The solution is pretty easy (or so he says). You put a nut on the opposite axle to protect the threads, push in to take up the freeplay between the axles, and rap sharply on the axle with a ball peen hammer (not a sledge hammer; you want a sharp rap). The force is transfered from one axle to the other through the thrust block that is between the axles in the differential. This will pop the bearing on the broken axle out of the housing. He promised to come over and do it for me if I can't manage it by myself . I'll let you know how it goes. -- Dale

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                            • #15
                              [^]Thanks for the replys to my questions in this thread also, even though they were not really related to Dale's question. My 60 Lark with 259 has a Dana 27 rear end with 307 gears, and I was unsure if there was any way to beef it up with out swapping it out, I think I have a line on a 44, so I will be checking it out.[?]

                              Studebaker Fever
                              60 Lark
                              51 Champion
                              Phil

                              Studebaker Fever
                              60 Lark
                              56 Power Hawk
                              Phil Hendrickson
                              Arnold, Missouri

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