Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Engine - How far to go?

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine - How far to go?

    I find when I think about something too long, I get confused!!??

    I am converting my 63 Champ to automatic. As noted before I blew the engine in the truck. I got a replacement engine out of a '57 or '58 Transtar. Its a 259 cid just like the one from my '63. I heard it run before I bought it and it sounded good!! My plans are to eventually rebuild the 259 out of my 63 with all new parts and perhaps to "tweak" it a bit... but that is down the road. I want to put new gaskets in the replacement engine so as to stop the usual leaks. Then use that engine "however long it takes" until I get my 63 engine rebuilt.

    The question is: How far should I go in replacing the gaskets? AS I said, the engine ran fine. Should I go all the way to the 'short block" or just replace the oil pan, main seals and the cam gear cover gasket. Should I even take the heads off and replace the head gasket, grind the valves.

    I have too many choices and its driving me nuts... Thought I would get some ideas from everyone else.

    HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!

    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

  • #2
    If it ain't broke don't F with it.

    Comment


    • #3
      If the engine is such a good runner, I'd suggest replacing just the external gaskets(pan, valve & valley covers, etc.) have those parts hot tanked and leave the heads on. valve jobs are expensive these days, and it is money you can use for thoroughly rebuilding your other engine.

      Comment


      • #4
        Just remember the crank bolts are longer on the manual trans engine, and shorter on the auto trans engine. You can only swap them with the pan off and the rear main cap removed. You can leave the longer bolts on if you are putting on an auto trans, but if you are going to a manual trans from an auto trans, you will need to swap them out.
        Remember to dial in the bellhousing too...
        Just thinking way down the road for you...
        Jeff[8D]

        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

        Jeff


        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

        Comment


        • #5
          That means you'll be dialing in the engine(s) twice.......Personally, I wouldn't change a gasket in the replacement engine unless, it's leakage is prohibitive. Right now, gas costs more per gallon than a quart of oil....think about that.....What's your usage ? Unless you drive the thing several hundred miles a week.....don't touch it. Just dial it into the existing tranny, that is , unless youget the other tranny, then drop the pair in.......personally, I'd make a deal on the combo...shops around here charge $200.+ for dialing in correctly.......now that's assuming you do not get the bellhousing with the mill.......

          Comment

          Working...
          X