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  • Calipers

    Anyone have real world experience using the larger Dunlop calipers (2 & 1/4) instead of the oem units on Studes (2 & 1/8).
    Is the gain worth the effort? Are the items readily available?

  • #2
    It's been done. I don't think any performance gain was the focus tho. More a convenience factor as they [were] available from some current automaker. Toyota or Volvo or..... fuzzy memory here.[:I]

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


    • #3
      Off of a 68-69 Toyota Crown I have the part numbers for it if you want, did it myself back about 80 and they were expensive back then, had to be ordered from Japan paid for in advance. Good luck trying to find them now.


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by Alan

        Off of a 68-69 Toyota Crown I have the part numbers for it if you want, did it myself back about 80 and they were expensive back then, had to be ordered from Japan paid for in advance. Good luck trying to find them now.


        • #5
          As I understand the why...I have been told the car would be easier to stop. I will thank you in advance for any ordering information...part numbers what vendors to contact etc. Also I may have to change to larger rear wheel cylinders.


          • #6
            Ok, If you realy want it you need 4 each Toyota(Sumitomo-Dunlop) #47730-30011 wheel cylinder, disk brake, assy with bleader.
            one each Toyota #47331-20010 RH hydraulic bridge tube.
            one each Toyota #47333-20010 LH hydraulic bridge tube.
            Use girling (Mintex M59 brake pads)From Jag E type, MK10, or Rover 2000
            The Toyota crown was a 4 door like the checker cabs they were a big car used by cab companys, not too manny left.


            • #7
              Will the standard jumpers used on disc braked Studes work? I thought that the Girling pad p/n 704 would also fit? Someone gave me all new brake lines that would fit an Avanti...thought I might be able to use same.
              Did you have to change to a different rear wheel cylinder in order to keep the system as close to factory oem as possible? I guess I can continue to use the Bendix single master?


              • #8
                Here is a link for a company that makes stainless steel replacement cylinders for Dunlop (Benix) calipers. They are built in 2-1/8 and 2-1/4" sizes. The 2-1/4" size would be OK for an Avanti or Lark but I wouldn't use them on a Hawk unless I could increase the rear wheel cylinder size. (because of weight distribution differences)

                These are expensive you will pay about $400 for a set of 4.


                David L
                David L


                • #9
                  The swap was done 25 years ago. I was running a Ford 9", back then, there wasn't much proportioning valve stuff around so I used 3/4" slave cylinders.The Sumitomo calipers are ordinarily sold in pairs, inner and outer halves. The inner half unfortunatley has it's inlet and outlet pipe machining designed for use with an internal tube flairing which is not compatible with the Stude hydraulic lines. Fortunatley the outer half has the bleeder fitting which happens to be the same machining as used by Studebaker thus one must purchase 2 outer halves, remove the bleeder fitting from one and install it 180 degrees opposite as an inner half. This will result in a pair of wheel cylinders which will install directly to the Stude mount and connect without problem to the existing Stude lines. The crossover hydraulic pipe which carries fluid between the caliper halves will have to be replaced with the comparable Toyota part since the inner half outlet and the outer half inlet internal flare fitting are not compatible with the Stude pipe.


                  • #10
                    The stock disc brake wheel cylinders, (there are four, two at each front wheel), are threaded at each end for what I thought was a metric brake line.
                    A bleeder is used in one end of the outer cylinder.
                    The stock bridge pipe is "metric" at both ends.
                    There is a short adaptor pipe from the inside cylinder to the bracket for the flex hose. It's "metric" on the cylinder end and SAE on the hose end.
                    When I replaced my brake cylinders, about 8 years ago, I thought I got the Toyota cylinders, with a slightly larger bore. Supposedly, they were available, and the smaller ones weren't. What ever I got, were identical to the stock parts, externally; and worked with the stock pipes, and pads.
                    In normal road use, with pads from SI, brakes are very good; but not great by modern standards. I haven't experienced any problems with lockup. It's an Avanti with 3/4" rear cylinders. I'm using a Chrysler dual master, which has a slightly larger bore than stock. It has a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes; and none for the front discs. Brake effort, with the stock booster, is neither especially high or low.
                    Mike M.


                    • #11
                      Thanks to all for your candid comments.

                      64Avanti, I went to the site listed and the larger calipers are not 100/each...but rather $219.00/each! Clearly I have some "soul searching" to do. For $880.00 one can purchase how many standard oem style cylinders from any of the Studebaker vendors...problem is stress...what stress?....well how long do you think it will take those oem standard units to start leaking due to rust? So yes for 880.00 I can have many spares....but do I want to go through the hassle of changing them every few years due to the fact the Stude is used only during the hobby driving season, and garaged for the remainder of the year. Plus, the oems would be the 2 & 1/8 variety and not the larger units...which is what I desired in the first place. Use of the larger units would require a different pad I assume? As one gets closer to retirement one wonders how much cash should be spent on ones hobby! And lets not forget the rear cylinders, the 3/4 units would have to changed to keep the system close to factory spec...balanced wise.


                      • #12
                        I knew that they were about $200 each, I don't know why understated the price for 4.

                        Stainless Steel brakes rebuilds these units. They install a stainless steel insert which will eleminate the corrosion problem.

                        I wouldn't spend $800 for a new set. I am converting my 73 Avanti to PBR calipers with larger rotors. I will be using 16 or 17 inch wheels.

                        David L
                        David L


                        • #13
                          I considered having my cylinders resleeved by White Post:


                          The price, several years ago, was about the same as new cylinders, ($80 ea?). They use brass sleeves, and promise fast turn around.
                          I talked to "Billy", the owner & a salesman. He couldn't tell me about how they rebuild the needle and valve assembly inside Dunlop cylinders; but I understand they have been doing them for years, and probably do a fine job. He also wanted to sell me "the finest brake linings", (Kevlar), without even knowing how I drive the car. Hopefully, there's a very knowledgeable tech, who is busy rebuilding wheel cylinders!
                          You might want to consider silicone brake fluid. That's another one I thought about and decided against; but it doesn't absorb water like DOT 3. I was afraid moisture in the system would collect in low spots.

                          Mike M.


                          • #14
                            Some years ago White Post was having all their work done down in North Carolina by Master Power Brakes in Mooresville.
                            I guess the price (219) is that way due to the fact one receives an entire unit (housing, piston,ect) made out of new ss) If I go the re-sleeving route then I wind up with a 2 & 1/8 unit, not the larger. If I go the Sumitomo/Dunlop route (if I can even find them)then I better buy several sets because I doubt I will ever be able to replace with these again. The final area to be delt with is the master cylinder....better to go with a dual unit for safety sake.
                            I need to win "power-ball" so I can just restore the entire car!