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V8 Camshafts

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  • V8 Camshafts

    I am rebuilding a Studebaker 289. The problem I've encountered is that there are few choices when it comes to replacing the camshaft, a component as subject to wear as any other, and critical to optimum peformance. I am not looking to buy a racing camshaft with a lumpy idle or conduct another assault on Bonneville; simply a bumpstick that will bring out the best in my little ol' rebuilt Stude motor! I know that there are various sellers out there offering regrinds based upon used cores. But, for one--when you regrind a camshaft--you also regrind the base circle of the cam, thus upsetting the valve train geometry of the engine and effecting faster wear on the related engine components, and/or end up with a camshaft with lift and duration specs that don't meet the requirements that will make the engine perform to the levels we as car enthusiasts expect. I know that 1950's model engines were way undercammed to more recent standards, anyway. If camshaft kits were presently available for the Studebaker V-8 engine, ground on NEW cores, using the profile of a production 1970+ brand "C" engine, utilizing a (readily-available) hydraulic lifter to eliminate the clatter and periodic adjustment, it would be more than satisfactory, for me. Why do I care, instead of just Switch? The Stude engines can sound and run like a motor bigger than they are, and are just about indestructible! Besides, I'd like to keep mine that way. I don't claim to have an original thought on this subject--What do you think?

  • #2
    Pot stirrer
    There are a few reground cams available now that are very good.
    There are one or two suppliers now selling a different ratio rocker arm. What you lose in the cam lobe area you could make up un the ratio change...sort of.
    New cam cores are not readily available at a reasonable price.
    Studebaker's engine packaging limits how 'big' you can make the lobes without having clearance issues on the connecting rods.
    Several vendors out there sell hydraulic lifter conversions, so you can get a reground cam with hydraulic lifters...if you want.
    The marketplace is too limited for any large production run of a Studebaker specific part to get the economies of scale to kick in and bring to price down the the acceptable level (of the cheap Studebaker type). You are reading too many magazines and applying their marketing standards to our little orphan breed. I'm happy we can just get what we need, like gaskets, and bearings. You want a cam? Step up and pay the stick forging man to make cores, then get the grinder man to grind your profile... Then get the Stude crowd to pay you back for your investment. Good luck! Like the famous racer guy said... "If you want to make a small fortune in this business....start with a large fortune"... Not being bitter here, nor cynical... Just realistic.
    Jeff[8D]



    quote:Originally posted by Cruiser

    I am rebuilding a Studebaker 289. The problem I've encountered is that there are few choices when it comes to replacing the camshaft, a component as subject to wear as any other, and critical to optimum peformance. I am not looking to buy a racing camshaft with a lumpy idle or conduct another assault on Bonneville; simply a bumpstick that will bring out the best in my little ol' rebuilt Stude motor! I know that there are various sellers out there offering regrinds based upon used cores. But, for one--when you regrind a camshaft--you also regrind the base circle of the cam, thus upsetting the valve train geometry of the engine and effecting faster wear on the related engine components, and/or end up with a camshaft with lift and duration specs that don't meet the requirements that will make the engine perform to the levels we as car enthusiasts expect. I know that 1950's model engines were way undercammed to more recent standards, anyway. If camshaft kits were presently available for the Studebaker V-8 engine, ground on NEW cores, using the profile of a production 1970+ brand "C" engine, utilizing a (readily-available) hydraulic lifter to eliminate the clatter and periodic adjustment, it would be more than satisfactory, for me. Why do I care, instead of just Switch? The Stude engines can sound and run like a motor bigger than they are, and are just about indestructible! Besides, I'd like to keep mine that way. I don't claim to have an original thought on this subject--What do you think?
    DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
    '37 Coupe Express
    '37 Coupe Express Trailer
    '61 Hawk

    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      I thought there was a project in the works to produce new blanks? But anyway for a street motor, either a used cam from an Avanti or one of Ted H's R2+ (basically an Avanti cam with a slightly different lobe separation angle) might be what you are looking for. Yes, the latter is a regrind but I have heard nothing but positive things about them. I have one that I will be installing as soon as I get my polished timing cover, along with one of ted's aluminum timing gears.

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      62 Daytona hardtop
      http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

      Comment


      • #4
        Tom (aka Old vinyl) was working on a new cam project. See this thread:

        http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com...earchTerms=Cam

        Dan White
        64 R1 GT
        64 R2 GT
        Dan White
        64 R1 GT
        64 R2 GT
        58 C Cab
        57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

        Comment


        • #5
          I have one of T. Harbit's R2+ cams in my 259. It idles relatively smooth and, with a little headwork, makes for a peppy little engine. I would certainly recommend one for a street engine.

          jj

          Comment


          • #6
            Talk to Dave Thibeault...he'll tell you that very few, if any Stude V8 cams need anything at all....It was a very hard piece of work, just like the bottom end was.....now, too bad the valve train up above got gipped.....

            Comment


            • #7
              Ted Harbit had a nice looking shaft mounted roller rocker setup at South Bend... unfortunately I have no idea how it works, as my pockets aren't that deep... would love to have a set to try out though

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              62 Daytona hardtop
              http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm pretty sure Harland Sharp built that setup for Ted.
                There's one other source for roller rockers..
                http://www.rockerarms.com
                ( 1.5 and 1.65 ratio available, as well as billet supports)
                Malcom Berry has had a set of stock Stude rockers reworked for a higher ratio.. Maybe contacting him at Fairborne Studebaker will help.
                http://www.fairbornstudebaker.com/
                Jeff[8D]



                quote:Originally posted by N8N

                Ted Harbit had a nice looking shaft mounted roller rocker setup at South Bend... unfortunately I have no idea how it works, as my pockets aren't that deep... would love to have a set to try out though
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

                  Pot stirrer
                  There are a few reground cams available now that are very good.
                  There are one or two suppliers now selling a different ratio rocker arm. What you lose in the cam lobe area you could make up un the ratio change...sort of.
                  New cam cores are not readily available at a reasonable price.
                  Studebaker's engine packaging limits how 'big' you can make the lobes without having clearance issues on the connecting rods.
                  Several vendors out there sell hydraulic lifter conversions, so you can get a reground cam with hydraulic lifters...if you want.
                  The marketplace is too limited for any large production run of a Studebaker specific part to get the economies of scale to kick in and bring to price down the the acceptable level (of the cheap Studebaker type). You are reading too many magazines and applying their marketing standards to our little orphan breed. I'm happy we can just get what we need, like gaskets, and bearings. You want a cam? Step up and pay the stick forging man to make cores, then get the grinder man to grind your profile... Then get the Stude crowd to pay you back for your investment. Good luck! Like the famous racer guy said... "If you want to make a small fortune in this business....start with a large fortune"... Not being bitter here, nor cynical... Just realistic.
                  Jeff[8D]



                  Deep, So,I've been reading too many magazines, have I? I'm just wondering what you What do you do with nitrous besides feed it to your engine?

                  DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
                  '37 Coupe Express
                  '37 Coupe Express Trailer
                  '61 Hawk

                  http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Only my dentist knows for sure
                    Jeff[8D]



                    Deep, So,I've been reading too many magazines, have I? I'm just wondering what you What do you do with nitrous besides feed it to your engine?


                    DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
                    '37 Coupe Express
                    '37 Coupe Express Trailer
                    '61 Hawk

                    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
                    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                    Jeff


                    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                    Comment

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