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New Member, Need Your Help!!

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  • New Member, Need Your Help!!

    Hey guys new member here. My grandfather recentely passed away and left my brother and i his all original 1950 4 Door Champion. I know a little with working on my truck, but my older brother knows nothing at all about cars. We dont have too much money to really do a lot (Im still in college) do you guys have any suggestions or tips. Anything help would be great. As in what type of oils it takes and so on. Months ago it started up and ran pretty much fine.

    Thanks-Dillon

  • #2
    First of all, were do you all live. Purhaps we can advise you of some members that may help.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey, Dillon, welcome to the forum. Your Grandfather had descriminating taste, as did mine.

      Getting into the Studebaker Club is your best bet. Join SDC and get to know local members.

      My first advice would be to do a major tune-up: points, plugs, cap, rotor and condenser; fresh fuel if possible. Get it running to circulate the oil (make sure it's there first). Drain oil, replace filter (if it has one, if not don't worry about it) and refill with 15-40. Then examine [u]</u>entire[u]</u> brake system, tires, wiring harness.

      That should suffice for the first day.
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey i live in Simi Valley, Ca. Thanks for the help. Anyone else got any info? Thanks-Dillon

        Comment


        • #5
          Also one of the tires is flat. Where would i pick up a new one from. And what octane fuel would you put in it? Thanks-Dillon

          Comment


          • #6
            Regular gas is fine. As to a tire, you may find it difficult to find a bias ply tire (assuming that's what's on it now) without paying big bucks for one.
            We've recently had a discussion about tires for a 51. Radial tires make a BIG improvement in the way these oldies drive. Seems like 205X75R15 is the best radial that's easily bought for a reasonable price. A 195X75R15 would approximate better what was originally on the car but any more they're only to be had from specialty tire companies at a cost of around $145 each![:0]
            I would suggest 20W50 oil myself. truth is, it's NOT that critical.

            Give the thing a really good grease job. It's not like a modern car that has "lifetime lubricated" suspension, steering and driveline parts. [}] There's LOTS of grease fittings on the underside of that car. To ignore them is to invite wear and trouble.[xx(] Get yourself a shop manual for this car - get it from SASCO 1-800-722-4295

            Miscreant at large.

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President 2-dr
            1955 President State
            1951 Champion Biz cpe
            1963 Daytona project FS
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              Mr. Biggs 195/75R15's were stock tires on base model Jeep Cherokees not so long ago. Tirerack.com has Goodyear Wrangler ST 195/75R15's for $87.(all season highway tires) Maybe other manufacturers have dropped them, but seems like Cooper Tires had them, maybe Remington too.
              Have a set of Tiger Paws on my 59 Lark Viii.

              Comment


              • #8
                Depends on the tire that is on there now. Is it just the tube that needs patching? Lional Stone is just on the other side of the hill from you. about 10 or 15 miles away. I am in south L.A. there are a few others about the same distance, around about 35-50 miles from you unless there is someone in Simi Valley that I don't know about. If you come this way a lot or go to school in L.A. county mail me through this forum.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey thanks for the tips guys. Im going to be starting to do some of the work tomorrow so hopefully everything will work out. Now for the oil, which to go for? 15w40 or 20w50? And how can i tell iif the gas is bad and if so what do i do then? Thanks-Dillon

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by 2002F150

                    Hey thanks for the tips guys. Im going to be starting to do some of the work tomorrow so hopefully everything will work out. Now for the oil, which to go for? 15w40 or 20w50? And how can i tell iif the gas is bad and if so what do i do then? Thanks-Dillon
                    You'll get as many opinions about what oil to use as there are members of this forum . When I lived in the SF Bay Area, I used straight 30w. In Bellingham, WA, I've been using 10/30 in the winter and 30w in the summer. I don't think you can go too wrong with whatever you end up putting in it.

                    If the gas doesn't smell like gas, it's bad. Drain the tank and refill with fresh.

                    -Dick-
                    Dick Steinkamp
                    Bellingham, WA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If the car's been sitting for some time, the old oil will have settled its accumulated gunk in the bottom of the pan. An argument can be made to drop the pan and clean it out first. Maybe we'll get some feedback here.

                      I personally have never dropped the pan before I got a car running, but I've also kept every Studebaker long enough to eventually do a complete engine rebuild, with the exception of my Rockne, which appears to have never been molested since the day it left the factory.

                      Once you get it running, the oil weight you use may depend on your oil pressure. If it is acceptable, the 15-40 would be fine; if less than desirable, the heavier oil may be all that's necessary; if dangerously low, you may want to explore a lower engine rebuild.

                      Then the question becomes what are your plans for the car, how will you use it and how long do you intend to keep it.
                      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey thanks i think ill try the 15w40. And is there a certain filter for it or no? My plans for the car is to keep it all original and keep it running in top shape. My grandfather was a mechanic and has had and kept the car in top shape until his death. There are no major problems, but i just want to keep everything up and running. I just have never worked on this car, and need your guys help, Which has been very good! Thank you-Dillon

                        Ill let you know how it goes after tomorrow

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          First, there were no multi-viscosity oils when this car was built. Also, detergent oils weren't as prevalent as they are nowdays. The '51 shop manual specifies 30W oil for temperatures 32deg. F.
                          That said, a multi-vis oil will do fine and my preference would be 20-50. As to the oil filter, an F3 (NAPA# 1010) or an F4 (NAPA# 1006) should fit. The F4 being a heavy duty filter.

                          How about telling us how long it's been sitting before you got your hands on it? If it's been sitting a long time, it needs it's brakes looked at to make sure they're safe. About the worst thing you can do to a car is let it set for extended periods of time without being driven. And I'm not talking about running it out of the garage and back in. That doesn't constitute "driving".[}]
                          BTW - neither does starting the engine and letting it run for 30 minutes. [xx(]

                          Miscreant at large.

                          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                          1960 Larkvertible V8
                          1958 Provincial wagon
                          1953 Commander coupe
                          1957 President 2-dr
                          1955 President State
                          1951 Champion Biz cpe
                          1963 Daytona project FS
                          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I believe in the diesel rated oils because they are formulated to run at higher temperatures. I like the Shell Rotella T 15W40. Like another reply stated you can find as many opinions on oil as there are members on this forum.

                            Comment

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