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need info on head for flat 6

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  • need info on head for flat 6



    okay as you may know i receantly asked about a chevy small block conversion for my 50 champ

    the reason for that question is my lil flat 6 is running weird and im thinking it has a blown head gasket or a cracked head

    let me run you through the problems and see what kinda thoughts you guys might have

    i recently (2 weeks at most)
    changed the points in my stude because it just seemed like the thing to do (had a small miss at highway speed and hadnt been done in god knows when)
    and shortly there after i started getting a heavy miss at operating temp

    for instance this last friday i took off to go cruise the local hop
    car was running beautifully
    imediatly got on the highway and after about eight miles of about 55 mph it started to develop hesitant miss every now and then

    i exited my exit and stopped at one stop light once the light turned green i drove off like any other day (car running beautifully )

    i stopped at another stop light, reveed the motor a few times during the course of waiting for the light to change (1500-2000 rpms max)

    when the light changed i drove off but the car was missing and hardly had any power
    it stayed like this for the rest of the evening
    in fact it barely had enough power to driv it up the small incline into my garage

    the next morning i went directly to the garage and started the car it was running beautifully (keep in mind i hadnt touched it from the night before) that day i checked all my plugs, wires, fuel lines, fuel filter, i evan went as far as dissmantling the carb and making sure nothing was stopped up

    reinstalled everything and drove it around the block (car again was running beautifully) then decided to go for a saturday morning cruise , the farther i got from home the worse the car ran

    well yesterday i was sick and had no fall back car so i drove the stude to the pharmacy and when i started it to back out the garage it was running beautifully again and once again the farther i drove it the worse it ran



    now im blown away by this it seems to get worse as the operating temp rises it has never gone over about 190 degrees during these epsoides

    i myself am thinking blown head gasket or worse(cracked head)
    but not all the syptoms are there for a typical blown head gasket (i dont think, but im real unfamliar with a stude 6)

    help me out guys cause i dont wanna attempt this sbc swap yet im having to much fun driving my stude right now (when it runs right)
    to have it torn down for a month or two

  • #2
    If you cracked the head, you will or might see water mixed into your oil. I had that same problem awhile back. It turned out to be a fuel filter.

    Comment


    • #3
      well ithought of that already cause im having alot of trouble with my tank being dirty ( didnt clean it very good during build process)

      but i already changed the filter and blew out all the lines
      and problem persist

      Comment


      • #4
        Have you tried a different coil??? Sounds like a coil to me. Gets warm and starts to break down internally.
        When you changed the points, did you change the condensor too[?][?]

        Miscreant at large.

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        1957 President 2-dr
        1955 President State
        1951 Champion Biz cpe
        1963 Daytona project FS
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          see two people at my work told me check to see if the coils breaking down

          how would i check that

          and no i did not change the condensor (evan though it is a thought in the back of my mind

          what you think biggs i know your the guru here

          Comment


          • #6
            You know, I seem to recall that there were coil tester machines around some years ago. But I don't know how you'd PROVE one was giving you trouble now without changing it out. I suppose a good engine analyser (scope) could diagnose it.
            Condensor's can be tested with a Volt-ohmeter. An analog meter anyway. Condensors are really cheap tho.
            Since it sounds like neither of these have been changed in the time you've owned the car, I'd be willing to invest in them if it were mine. Get a new cap while you're at it. The cap and condensor are part of a real tune-up anyway.

            Miscreant at large.

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President 2-dr
            1955 President State
            1951 Champion Biz cpe
            1963 Daytona project FS
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              thanks biggs
              these ideas are probably a lot cheaper and easier than pulling the head for inspection or evan a sbc swap huh

              hey thanks again ill let you know the outcome

              Comment


              • #8
                Gotti, a few thoughts come to mind. First, do check the coil and condensor as Biggs says. Cheap and easy to do. Always do the cheap and easy stuff first!

                If the problem persists, do a compression check COLD, record the readings, and then do another when it's warmed up and displaying the trouble symptoms. Could be you have valve guides sticking when warm (varnish) or maybe the valves are just set too tight, and you are eating up the clearance when the engine warms up.

                Check the heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold below the carb; if it is stuck in the closed position, you will experience driveability problems when warm.

                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

                Comment


                • #9
                  i will bet this is fuel related but go ahead and check the ignition anyway. Also check to see if your fuel pump has an internal filter; I had this exact problem on my '55 and that is what it was.

                  nate

                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  62 Daytona hardtop
                  http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds a lot like a Kaiser I had. It was the gas tank and the pick up tube plugging up. Let it sit and enough gas could 'soak' in. Drive and the fuel demand was to great for the pluggin tube to supply. I had the tank cleaned , end of problem.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I would go back and look at the distributor again. You said that you changed the points just before this happened. I had a similar problem once. The car would run fine when cold but lousy when warmed up and sometimes just stop once it got really warmed up. I replaced all kinds of parts over months. Eventually, I took the distributor apart, found the little ground wire under the breaker plate had a corroded connection to the distributor housing. A little clean-up and all was wonderful. Your problem may be electrical.

                      Gary Ash
                      Dartmouth, MA
                      '48 M5
                      '65 Wagonaire Commander
                      '63 Wagonaire Standard
                      www.studegarage.com
                      Gary Ash
                      Dartmouth, Mass.

                      '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
                      ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
                      '48 M5
                      '65 Wagonaire Commander
                      '63 Wagonaire Standard
                      web site at http://www.studegarage.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        IMHO, the coil is breaking down as it heats up. This is not an unusual failure mode for '50s cars.
                        Gary L.
                        Wappinger, NY

                        SDC member since 1968
                        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Check your (plug)wire from coil to distributor...make sure it is not parted or torn...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            well guys
                            i went out and bought a new 12 volt coil and installed a balace resistor
                            bought new cap & rotor & condensor

                            installed it all and guess what problem is still there

                            also someone spoke of the flapper in exhaust manifold closing
                            well i inspected it with the motor running and reveed it a couple of times and it seemed to be working fine but just to be on the safe side i tied it open with a piece of wire but problem still exist

                            plug wires are brand new accels
                            new plugs the only other thing i can think to try is tomarrow im going to go thru the carb again , put on another new fuel filter and blow out all the lines and see what happens


                            this just blows me away
                            what else could it be guys

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              if this is a 50 champ you should not need a ballast resistor... unless you have converted to 12v... also if you bought a "12 volt" coil it probably has an internal ballast so you still don't need the ballast resistor, there is no such thing as a coil that works on 12V without a ballast, they all either have internal resistances or are marked "use with external resistor" (and the latter will probably work OK on a 6V car *without* the resistor)

                              nate

                              --
                              55 Commander Starlight
                              62 Daytona hardtop
                              http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                              --
                              55 Commander Starlight
                              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                              Comment

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