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brake lights

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  • brake lights

    I have a 1957 Silver Hawk and the brake lights have quit working. Can anyone tell me where the brake light switch is and/or where the fuse (if there is one) is located. I have looked every where and have not located the switch yet. Also my gas gauge seldom works and when it does it moves extremely slow and only goes to 1/4 when the tank is full. I have check the float switch and it moves freely. Would this problem be the float switch or the gauge.
    Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by yotnot2

    I have a 1957 Silver Hawk and the brake lights have quit working. Can anyone tell me where the brake light switch is and/or where the fuse (if there is one) is located. I have looked every where and have not located the switch yet. Also my gas gauge seldom works and when it does it moves extremely slow and only goes to 1/4 when the tank is full. I have check the float switch and it moves freely. Would this problem be the float switch or the gauge.
    Thanks for any help.
    The brake light switch is on the brake line "t" (actually an "x") on the driver's side of the vehicle mounted to the frame, near the front wheel.

    -Dick-
    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      That "X"-shaped brass fitting that Dick refers to is mounted on the inside of the frame - next the left side of the Engine. The brake lite switch has two little bullet connectors sticking straight upwards. Two red wires with female connectors slip onto the two "bullets". Quite often, those connections get corroded or loose. Check their cleanliness and snug fit before you change out the switch. (Which sould be available at most parts stores, BTW) NAPA # (Echlin) SL134

      The Stude gas guages DO move slowly when they work right. If your's shows 1/4 when the tank's full, the problem might be in the gage itself.(Provided, as you say, that the sender's about to travel full range) You might check with an ohmmeter to see if the sender has a consistent range of resistance change thru it's full range of travel.

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        On the gas guage, did you check the float itself. Many older style floats have absorbed the gas or if it's brass, may leak and have a few air pockets so it doesn't raise to the top of the tank.

        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
        Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

        Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
        Tom - Bradenton, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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        • #5
          if you have power brakes the switch may be on the end of the Hydrovac. otherwise the advice given previously is correct.

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          62 Daytona hardtop
          http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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          • #6
            I got tired of fooling around with the cork float type of sending unit
            & got a new replacement from Studebaker Int.It has a pastic float & is something they have gleened from another make.It fits right in & one can't tell it's not the original unreliable type.But most important it works great! I've had mine in for 3yrs & it's very accurate

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