Looking For Twin Traction

[dcoffield]

I'm wanting to add the twin traction to my 65 Commander's Dana 44.
Does anyone know a good place to get one (I guess I just need the guts, and maybe a new gearing)?

How difficult is it to do this upgrade, or should I take it to a pro?

[dcoffield]

Also, what would be a reasonable price for the t t unit?

[Roscomacaw]

SASCO has them. They've been offering them on ebay of late.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[Chicken Hawk]

quote:Originally posted by dcoffield

I'm wanting to add the twin traction to my 65 Commander's Dana 44.
Does anyone know a good place to get one (I guess I just need the guts, and maybe a new gearing)?

How difficult is it to do this upgrade, or should I take it to a pro?

I have one that is for the flanged axles. I understand a few '65's came with tapered axles before they started using the flanged. The tapered have 19 splines and the flange 27 I believe. Also, you need to know what gear you have. More than likely you have a 3.73 or lower numerical gear. Those take one unit and the 3.92 and higher number takes another.

Let me know what your gear ratio is and for sure if it has flanged axles. If it matches what I have, you can name your price plus shipping and I'll send it to you. I saved it from a salvaged car so I can only assume it was ok but no guarantee.

Ted

[dcoffield]

I have a 3.31

How can I tell if it's tapered or flanged?

[Transtar60]

Take your rear wheel cover/hubcap off. Look at the center of the wheel(commonly refered to as the pilot hole,fits over the hub on the fronts). If its a tapered axle, there will be an castellated axle nut there. If flanged the axle will not have a nut there, just a flat machined surface.

[Roscomacaw]

If you take a hub cap off, there's a big nut showing in the center hole of the wheel if it's a tapered axle unit. If it's a flanged axle rear, it won't have a big nut showing in that center hole.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[dcoffield]

I'm not sure what a castellated nut looks like but here is a pic of the area. It's not a flat machined surface.

http://www.dougs-stuff.com/Studebaker/Rear%20Axel.JPG

[Alan]

Flanged, lucky guy!

[Roscomacaw]

A castellated nut's the kind with notches cut into it for a cotter pin to fit thru. Do you know what a cotter pin is?

Yup, that's a flanged axle rear. What it means (more than anything to us Stude nuts) is that you can service the rear brakes on your car without having to fight with the drum&hub puller.[xx(] They only went to this type of rear axle during the last two years of production.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[dcoffield]

Cotton pin...cotter picker??? I guess I know what a castellated nut looks like, just not the appropriate descriptor.

I just ordered the Steeltech disk kit for the front (I really don't like drum brakes, especially in Michigan where everything rusts and siezes up).

[prager]

How big of a deal is it to switch a Dana 44 with 3:31 tapered axles to twin trac? I have seen some aftermarket things in Summit's catalog, but the rear end I have was made in 1956, I'm sure there have been some changes that would stop me from using anything too new..What do you guys think?

[Stude4x4]

Prager, Its not too bad to change a 44 to TT with tapered axles. Yes, flanged is better but you can do it. A Dana 44 is a Dana 44 the only difference is how many splines are on your axleshaft. You can get a TT unit just about anywhere. As far as the work involved its pretty easy to set up. Obviously the axleshafts need to be pulled out which will require the car to be put on jack stands. Everything from there just flys. If you use the same ring and pinion then you shouldn't need too much setting up. Make sure your gear pattern looks good and your backlash is what the book says. If you have any more questions feel free to ask. I'm sure many more guys have messed with this before and I myself have set up a few gearsets.
Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-

[Roscomacaw]

I was looking into this a couple years ago. There's a unit called Powr-Trax (I think that's the name) that offered a limited slip insert that only required you take the back cover off the rear and pull the axles out a bit. The sucker's 'sposed to bolt right in and be good to go! Price was about $400 or less and they DID offer one for a 19-spline Type 44.
I haven't followed thru on this and maybe never will since I found a TT rear to use where I wanted. Maybe someone else here knows of what I speak. Jeff?[8D]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[Stude4x4]

Yeah biggs powr-trax makes the unit called a lock right. Its not a limited slip. It doesn't give like the limited slips do. Its easier to do because you don't have to change any bearings, gear or anything. It just replaces the spider gears inside and you can put the unit back in. Another problem with the lock right is that its not very strong. Most guys use them as a cheap way to lock up their 4x4's. They're a lot cheaper than $400. Used mostly in the light duty rigs like toyotas and jeeps. I wouldn't recommend one for a Studebaker. Auburn gear makes an excellant limited slip, just like our old power locks from Stude. I could get you one for around 450 dollars.
Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-