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  • Point problem

    The point on my 61 six cylinder L ark will only last six or seven hundred mile before burning up. I' curently runing a autolite distributer. The bushings are good and it hold a very steady dwell. Should there be a resister on the key side of the coil. The car starts and runs realy great till the point give it up What am I doing wrong.

    Thank Tony

    61 Lark
    61 Lark Cruser VIII

  • #2
    Yes. with a stock coil you should have maybe 9V at the points with the key on. However I think you should actually have a resistance wire from the key switch, is it pink in color? Also make sure that your condenser is good, and that if you have a RFI suppression cap on the coil, that it is connected to the POSITIVE terminal (if it is on the neg. terminal it will work in parallel with the one in the distributor effectively doubling its value, causing the points to wear out quickly)

    just a couple things to check...

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Comment


    • #3
      Put a voltmeter on the primary wire to the distributor.
      If it reads 12 volts, then you need to add a resistor wire, or a ballast resistor, or a resistor coil.
      The points should only see around 7&1/2 volts.
      Jeff[8D]



      quote:Originally posted by TTodd

      The point on my 61 six cylinder L ark will only last six or seven hundred mile before burning up. I' curently runing a autolite distributer. The bushings are good and it hold a very steady dwell. Should there be a resister on the key side of the coil. The car starts and runs realy great till the point give it up What am I doing wrong.

      Thank Tony

      61 Lark
      61 Lark Cruser VIII
      DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
      '37 Coupe Express
      '37 Coupe Express Trailer
      '61 Hawk

      http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        It has about 11 volts dead cold warmed up depending on the rpm of the motor any where from 8 to 9 volts by my Raido Shack meter. The last set of points and condenser were put in new I guess maybe they don't make'm like they used to. All of the old chevys and dodges Iv'e worked on generaly cut it back to around 6 volts. If you add a risister should you add a bypass wire for hot starts for a full 12 volts to the coil?

        Thanks Tony

        61 Lark
        61 Lark Cruser VIII

        Comment


        • #5
          Yessir.. You described the solution very nicely.
          Jeff[8D]


          quote:Originally posted by TTodd

          It has about 11 volts dead cold warmed up depending on the rpm of the motor any where from 8 to 9 volts by my Raido Shack meter. The last set of points and condenser were put in new I guess maybe they don't make'm like they used to. All of the old chevys and dodges Iv'e worked on generaly cut it back to around 6 volts. If you add a risister should you add a bypass wire for hot starts for a full 12 volts to the coil?

          Thanks Tony

          61 Lark
          61 Lark Cruser VIII
          DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
          '37 Coupe Express
          '37 Coupe Express Trailer
          '61 Hawk

          http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

          Jeff


          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

          Comment


          • #6
            Your car SHOULD have a pink (resistor-type) wire from the key switch to the coil. If it's not pink then you probably need a resistor. Your car should also have a bypass circuit already incorporated and fed from the little "I" terminal on your starter solenoid.
            Also, a bad condensor can cause points to arc excessively and fail in quick fashion.

            Miscreant at large.

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President 2-dr
            1955 President State
            1951 Champion Biz cpe
            1963 Daytona project FS
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              Coils are avalable with built in resistors. I found one at Advance. Also verify that the wire from the coil to the points has the same polarity as the ground wire on the battery. In other words, if the ground cable on the battery connects to the negative (-) terminal, so should the distributor wire be attached to the negative (-) terminal on the coil.

              Tom Bredehoft
              '53 Commander Coupe
              '60 Lark VI
              '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
              All Indiana built cars

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the help. I'll get the od Lark in the shop today and get it sorted out. Willy Wirehand the wireing wizzard had a hold of this car before I got so no telling what I might find.

                Thanks Tony

                61 Lark
                61 Lark Cruser VIII

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by Tom B

                  Coils are avalable with built in resistors.
                  Do these defeat the purpose of a full 12V for better starts or is there some way to wire around the resistor to provide 12V when the starter is engaged?

                  Thanks,
                  -Dick-
                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My understanding is that the bypass circuit on Studebakers is engaged during the start cycle via the fender mounted starter solenoid(red white wire??).

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      the white w/red tracer wire is the one coming from the ignition switch "start" position, it's the other small wire (green I think?) that goes from the starter solenoid to the coil.

                      If you are standing on the driver's side of the car, looking down at the inner fender, the rear terminal should have the ignition switch wire, and the front one should have the bypass wire.

                      nate

                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      62 Daytona hardtop
                      http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Green & black wire. Dick, that'd be a fair question, eh?[:0]

                        Miscreant at large.

                        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                        1960 Larkvertible V8
                        1958 Provincial wagon
                        1953 Commander coupe
                        1957 President 2-dr
                        1955 President State
                        1951 Champion Biz cpe
                        1963 Daytona project FS
                        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                        Comment

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