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Recommendation: Oil Seal Leak Treatment

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  • N8N
    replied
    I have heard that as well. It certainly makes sense, although it would only work with a good felt that wasn't all gummed up. I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet, although I will need to replace the front seal on both of my cars at some point in time.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

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  • wayne
    replied
    I was told that by drilling a 1/8 inch hole on the bottom inside of the cannel that holds the felt seal in the front cover. I tried it on my 51 commander and it has not leaked since. I believe how it works is to let the oil drain back to the pan instead of out.

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  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Nate...
    I cleaned the covers and prepped them for the treatment (whatever that is[?]) I worked on Lloyd's transtar today and am going to get up early tomorrow anr build the die to make the seal retainer part...
    Hopefully I will get somewhere tomorrow...
    Later...
    Jeff[8D]


    quote:Originally posted by N8N

    Hey, I know you work on the squeaky wheel principle... Damn car is too nice not to drive (took it on the highway for the first time today, tracks very nicely at an indicated 70 and doesn't heat up at all! woo hoo!) but it is marking its territory very badly. I've lost a quart in maybe 100 miles, and most of that seems to be laying on the front crossmember.

    nate

    (I'm a PM so I do the same thing a lot of the time)

    (squeak, squeak, squeak <G&gt

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
    '37 Coupe Express
    '37 Coupe Express Trailer
    '61 Hawk

    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

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  • N8N
    replied
    Hey, I know you work on the squeaky wheel principle... Damn car is too nice not to drive (took it on the highway for the first time today, tracks very nicely at an indicated 70 and doesn't heat up at all! woo hoo!) but it is marking its territory very badly. I've lost a quart in maybe 100 miles, and most of that seems to be laying on the front crossmember.

    nate

    (I'm a PM so I do the same thing a lot of the time)

    (squeak, squeak, squeak <G&gt

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

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  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Sheesh.. I just got home from Pittsburgh (985 miles in 23 hours...what sleep...even with a quick motel stay..?)
    I'll try to get George's and yours started this weekend...
    Jeff[8D]



    quote:Originally posted by N8N

    Speak of the devil, Mr. Former Seal Company Rep... you got my timing cover done yet? I would love to get my new cam in and stop my engine from leaking but there's just one thing missing

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
    '37 Coupe Express
    '37 Coupe Express Trailer
    '61 Hawk

    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

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  • N8N
    replied
    Speak of the devil, Mr. Former Seal Company Rep... you got my timing cover done yet? I would love to get my new cam in and stop my engine from leaking but there's just one thing missing

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

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  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Well, it will be hard to swell up a rope seal, or a felt seal.....
    And a nitrile rubber seal?
    The chemicals used in the leak stop additives will actually cause the nitrile rubber to swell up. If the swelling is too much, then the seal lip will acutally burn against the shaft it rides on, and the situation will deteriorate to a point worse than before.
    A band aide fix at best.
    Short cuts like this will only lead to a more expensive repair in the long run.
    (A former seal company rep)
    Jeff[8D]



    quote:Originally posted by tsterkel

    hi!
    have oil leaks on some seals that will cost significant effort to get to. Would like to have a temporary solution until I can get an engine hoist set up.

    I used to use (in the '70s) oil seal conditioners to "swell" the seals. At the local Autozone, I find 7 products that "fix leaks", but at least four of them are really viscosity improvers...same as changing from 30W to 50W.

    So the question is:
    1. Is there a product that really "seals" or "swells" the seals?
    2. Positive experience (yours or of a friend that you saw the results.)

    please, urban myths need not respond...
    DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
    '37 Coupe Express
    '37 Coupe Express Trailer
    '61 Hawk

    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

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  • charley norton
    Guest replied
    I have actually been told that all studes leak and burn oil and that if you find one that doesn't, it probably doesn't have any oil in it. Mine wasn't leaking two months ago so I guess its normal now.
    Lefty

    63 R2 Avanti

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  • N8N
    replied
    What Mark said. I have noticed the same effect with Rotella as he notes with synthetic. My '55 coupe was dry as a bone when I started working on it, now the front and rear mains are like the Exxon Valdez. I attribute that to the fresh oil simply cleaning all the gunk out, and I'll be much happier when the inside of the engine is completely clean and there's new seals on there rather than wondering when an old, gunky seal is going to let go and start spewing. I'll get it out of the way now and then it'll be all good

    Actually I have two Studes, both have leaked like sieves from the front and rear mains, transmission tailshaft, and the rear axle pinion. I think replacing those seals, as well as the wheel bearing seals, should simply be considered part of the acquisition cost of a "new" Stude.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

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  • MarkC
    Guest replied
    Synthetics have been known to aggravate leaks, due largely to their higher levels of detergents and inhibitors, especially in units that haven't had regular and/or frequent changes. (An automatic transmission that hasn't had a fluid change in 20 years is likely to leak with new fluid, whether it be natural or synthetic.)

    That being said, my original '64 259 actually leaks less out the rear main seal after a year of driving with Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40, than it did when I got it. I have no scientific explanation and your method may vary.

    MarkC

    MarkC, 64 Y8
    Working in Spokane, WA

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  • charley norton
    Guest replied
    What about synthetic oils? Have you heard of them causing oil leaks? I started using the castrol brand and now am finding Both front and rear seals leaking.
    Charley and the left pulling Avanti (known as "Lefty")

    63 R2 Avanti

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Nate, the use is that it can stop a leak at a gasketed juncture like an engine oil pan or valley cover or even a atup trannie pan gasket. It's just a band-aid to fixing it right. Not a cure.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

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  • tirebiter4659
    replied
    go through and tighten up the bolts a bit.............

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  • DilloCrafter
    replied
    Mine leaks profusely out the front and back seals, too. But after 50 years and 110K miles, I guess that's normal. Rebuilt engine to go in soon, though. I wonder how long before it starts to leak?

    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup

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  • N8N
    replied
    quote:That said - there IS a very temporary fix that is a topical treatment. That is to say, it gets sprayed on wherever you detect leakage. The stuff actualy forms a skin over the leaking area and it works - for a while. NOT every time, but I've seen it work on stuff of my own here. Most notably, I had a floor jack that leaked after I rebuilt it. Goofy thing was MADE without seals or gaskets at each end of the fluid resevoir. It would leak a spot wherever I left it set overnight. I followed the direction on the aerosol can of this leak-stop and the jack quit leaking! It's made by Permatex but I can't ever remember the stuffs product name. Little 4 or 5 OZ. can with an applicator nozzle (tube).
    Won't fix a leaking front or rear main seal tho. Only replacement will take care of them!
    well what's the use then? Those are the only places my engine is leaking! (or if it's leaking somewhere else, the front and rear mains are spewing so much oil by comparison that it's hard to notice.)

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

    Leave a comment:

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