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Defroster doesn't work

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  • Defroster doesn't work

    When I got my '54 Champion back on the road, the defroster wouldn't work. I replaced the dash switch. Didn't help. I bought a used defroster motor. I removed the old defroster motor from the car and hooked it directly to the battery. It wouldn't spin. Then I hooked my newly purchased used motor directly to the battery. It ran smoothly and quietly. Great!

    I installed the used motor and it still doesn't spin when I hit the switch. [V]

    Is there something obvious I'm missing? Bad ground somewhere?

    When I turn the switch on, the ammeter does twitch a tiny bit to the discharge side, if that gives any clue.

    I don't even need the defroster, but I like to have everything in working order on the car.


  • #2
    DID YOU CHECK THE CONNECTION AT THE MOTOR FOR "POWER" WHEN THE SWITCH IS ON? IF THERE IS POWER, TRY A JUMPER WIRE FOR ANOTHER GROUND.IF IT IS THE GROUND, USE SOME GOOD STAR WASHERS ON THE MOUNT. BOLTS.
    ALSO, IF THAT SQUIRREL CAGE FAN IS NOT ON THE SHAFT FAR ENOUGH, IT MAY BIND IN THE HOUSING.
    I USUALLY DON'T DRIVE MY STUDES IN THE WINTER, BUT IT'S NICE TO HAVE THE DEFROST FOR THOSE RARE OCCASIONS,....OR HEAVY BREATHERS.

    Comment


    • #3
      Are you sure the blower wheel has not been put in a bind during the re-installation of the defroster, I ran into a similar situation when I installed the defroster on my 51 Champion and had to make a couple of additional shims to gain clearance. This could be what caused the original motor to go bad.

      Studebaker Fever
      60 Lark
      51 Champion
      Phil

      Studebaker Fever
      60 Lark
      56 Power Hawk
      Phil Hendrickson
      Arnold, Missouri

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks so much for the advice. I'll check both possibilities next time I get out to the garage.

        Comment


        • #5
          The fact that there's a small discharge registered on your ammeter shows that the motor's drawing power and the ground's good (ASSuming the switch or associated wiring isn't shorted somewhere). It may well be that you've got a bind on the blower wheel.

          Miscreant at large.

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe
          1957 President 2-dr
          1955 President State
          1951 Champion Biz cpe
          1963 Daytona project FS
          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, I finally found time to get out to the garage and look at the defroster motor in the '54.

            I put a test light on the wire at the connector near the motor, under the hood, and had power there. So I took the cover plate off the heating coil under the dash and found that the squirrel cage was somewhat stiff. This puzzled me, because I tested the motor before I installed it and it ran. Well, might as well pull it off again.

            Then I remembered that I had another spare motor from a stash of stuff I bought off of a '53 parts car a few years ago. I found it, and the cage moved very freely. Then I did a test connection directly to the battery. It spun like Britney Spears on amphetamines.

            I installed it, and I now have a working motor!

            The job isn't quite done yet, because I had taken off the old defroster duct hoses a long time ago, and when I tried to reinstall them I found out that the 51 year old paper/fiber (?) junk that they are made of doesn't stretch at all. Come to think of it, I don't stretch very well when I'm up under the dash anymore either, but that's another story.

            I have one more question. I've read for years that sometimes you can restore a small electric motor by drilling a small hole in the dimple at the end of the motor, and squirt some oil in it. Have any of you ever done this with any success? If so, maybe I can get into the used defroster motor business!

            Thanks again for your help.

            Comment


            • #7
              the hole-in-the-dimple trick works about 50% of the time, because there's two bushings. If it's the front bushing that's seized up that won't help you any at all. It's a PITA but I like to disassemble the motors and make sure the felts are thoroughly soaked with oil. Just don't get any on the windings, or if you do clean it off.

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              62 Daytona hardtop
              http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

              Comment


              • #8
                I usually have no trouble getting some oil on the bushing at the business end of these motors. If you use one of those little oilers with the extendable spout, you can do this without removing the blower wheel (which can be a bear sometimes!)
                But I DO drill a little hole at the center of the little dome on the other end of the motor and inject a bit of light oil. Has worked every time for me.

                Miscreant at large.

                1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                1960 Larkvertible V8
                1958 Provincial wagon
                1953 Commander coupe
                1957 President 2-dr
                1955 President State
                1951 Champion Biz cpe
                1963 Daytona project FS
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                Comment

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