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  • #31
    quote:Originally posted by swan hawk

    Nothing happens if teh key is turned. [V]
    Think of all the gas you are saving

    Well, time to get a test light, and start tracing the wires from the ignition switch back to the source. You might want to take out the driver's seat, and put an old sleeping bag or something similar on the floor of the car. Makes getting one's head under the dash almost comfortable.

    Connect the clip lead of the test light to a known good ground, and see if you have juice at the "bat" terminal on the ignition switch. The switch terminal do have labels embossed in the black Bakelite; you may need a strong light and a mirror, but they are there. If you have juice at the "bat" terminal, check for juice at "ign" and "acc". The former should be live with the key turned one notch to the right, and the latter should be live with the key turned one notch either way from off. The "start" terminal should be live only when the key is turned all the way to the right in the cranking position.

    No juice at the "bat" terminal? Then find the terminals on the back of the ammeter. They should both have juice. If only one does, either the ammeter is open, or one or both of the wire terminals are not making good contact with the ammeter stud. Disconnect the battery, then remove these wires (one at a time), clean the ring terminals and studs, and reassemble. If neither terminal on the ammeter has juice, then the wire harness bears looking at.

    BTW, when using a test light, I like to have a known good "hot" wire available that I can touch periodically to ensure that the test light itself remains well-grounded, and that the bulb is still good. Saves tearing into something because of a "false negative" from the test light.

    Get these steps done, and check back with your findings[8D]

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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