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Cost for rebuild...

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  • Cost for rebuild...

    I have been contacting shops for rebuilds on my 289. It seems about 4k is avarage. Does anyone in California know of a shop that will do a good job for less? I really don't have that much to spend.[:I]
    Otherwise, does anyone want a really nice encloased car trailer?[8D] It's an '04 Interstate with very lo miles. It has 18' X 8'6" interior measurments. In short, a palace fit for any trailer queen. The distance between the wheelwells is 7'. I was thinking of $4500. This will cover the cost of the new motor and transportation. Gotta part with the trailer if I have to spent that much on the engine...[V]

    Lotsa Larks!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith

  • #2
    You're probably looking at $1100-1200 for parts. The rest is labor. Have you talked to members of your local SDC Chapter?
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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    • #3
      I know a quality shop in IN that quoted me $2K to $2.5K plus parts.

      Dan White
      64 R1 GT
      64 R2 GT
      Dan White
      64 R1 GT
      64 R2 GT
      58 C Cab
      57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

      Comment


      • #4
        I think 4 large is way too much for a rebuild. Are you dealing with someone who has done this before? Or is this some local small block mechanic? You should be able to get this done by an experienced Studebaker mechanic for half that. An inexperienced (with Studes) mechanic will quote everything at top price, just because that is what it takes with those lesser engines. Get the name of that guy that Dan White talked to, and see what he will quote you. Even with shipping both ways and building a wooden crate it would be less than 4 biggies. I suggest you get no less than three quotes from actual Stude people, figure shipping, and go from there. Is there some reason you don't want to rebuild the engine yourself? It isn't as hard as you might think it is. Even with having to purchase tools, it would be less than that quote. Shop around some more!

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        • #5
          I've been around Studebakers ALL my life. I highly prize the Stude V8. What do you want, standard overhaul? What condition is it in and what do you want? I have a complete machine shop where we do everything except cylinder boring. I am in Placerville CA. Call me (530) 622-8719 or (530) 391-8819
          Randy

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          • #6
            I live in southern California, Riverside. I have done business with a machine shop in town for about 11 years now, and would recommend them to anyone. Good reputation, relatively small, detail orientated shop. There cost is not as low as you may find elsewhere, but the quality is very high, and they stand behind their work. I have not done a Stude engine, but have done 2 SBC, 1 F#rd 390, 1 slant 6 and a Pontiac 350 with them. All cost about $2500 to $2800 with balancing, short block assembled, cam, lifters, springs valve guides, hardened seats, 3 angle valve job, etc, and in the case of the slant 6 minor porting, and milling.
            4K seems too high to me.
            Let me know if you need contact info.

            Ross.
            57 Provincial
            58 Transtar
            66 Wagonaire
            sigpic
            Ross.
            Riverside, Ca.
            1957 Provincial X2
            1958 Transtar

            Comment


            • #7
              A month ago I picked up my 259 from the machine shop ready to install in my '64 Daytona. I bought parts from Phil Harris including crank and cam and a trans adapter. Total bill for balanced completely assembled and painted engine was right at $2300 including parts. I only had to install carb, water pump, starter and generator. Dave has been doing this for 35 years and does all the work himself except cleaning. Crate up an engine and ship it to Cheyenne, WY for about six to seven hundred round trip. Beats 4 biggies plus.

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              • #8
                Excuse my senility, I forgot to say we bored the 259 +.030 and the price included all the parts.

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                • #9
                  Where in Calif. are you located?

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                  • #10
                    Sometimes it seems I live in Bum Fu## Egypt.[V] I live in Lewiston Ca. There is no local chapter up here. The only ones are located well over a hundred miles away at best. The $4500 price was quoted to me from Studebakers West of Redwood City Ca. I have asked several other shops in this area and owing to the nature of the motor they want the same or only slightly less. All are over 3k. You know, I used to live in Riverside Ca and had a pretty good mechanic who knew Studes. He had trained in the stude dealership. The fellow used to get a real kick working on mine. Oh sigh... And no, I don't want any cheese or crackers with my whine!

                    And Moderator, sorry about the insinuation, the term seems to fit sometimes...[:I]

                    Lotsa Larks!
                    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                    Ron Smith
                    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                    Ron Smith
                    Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Randy,
                      The motor ran pretty well burning a little oil in the 1&2 cylinders (first two front). It just stopped running one day and we found that the distributor was'nt turning. I pulled it and found nothing wrong. The pin was'nt sheared nor were the gears stripped. I looked into the motor with a torch and could'nt find anything either. It's been sitting in the yard for over a year since. What do I want done? Well, just a rebuild would do. In my humble opinion it probably does'nt need to be bored. I suppose re-honing the cylinders is de'reger. I'm only interested in getting it going again as economically as possible. It was a strong, reliable (at least till it died) motor. The most that I would do is add a 4bbl carb. It should be tanked, what else is needed would have to be assessed when it is torn down. I hope my ramblings have'nt gone on too long...[:I]

                      Lotsa Larks!
                      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                      Ron Smith
                      Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                      Ron Smith
                      Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Take that flashlight and look down the distributor hole again and have some one turn the engine over and see if the cam moves could be the cam gear.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You can fix it!
                          Sounds like you have a stripped timing gear. A few hundred bucks in parts, a shop manual, and basic hand tools are about it. The only special tool is a puller/ installer for the cam gear and balancer flange, and that can be rented from stude.com, or fabricated, or maybe borrowed if you luck out. I did this job on my nieces Lark (did the same thing as yours) with out the special tool, I recall purchasing the appropriate all thread rod, and using various washers, pipe fittings, to get the job done. At the time it worked, and it still runs! This would cost much less than a rebuild, even if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work. You have the best technical support right here as well. (No, not me)


                          Ross.
                          57 Provincial
                          58 Transtar
                          66 Wagonaire
                          sigpic
                          Ross.
                          Riverside, Ca.
                          1957 Provincial X2
                          1958 Transtar

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Sounds like the cam timing gear to me.
                            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                            Comment


                            • #15

                              Hey Studeclunker
                              I'm in the same boat as you with no local chapter within hundreds of miles. I live on the coast of No. Calif. I'm here in Eureka. I also think that it is a stripped cam gear. My 59 lark did that one day on the way to work years ago. Driving down the road and it just died! It is a fairly easy fix if you have a manual and few tools.

                              Gordon


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