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c and k model door flippers

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  • c and k model door flippers

    where can one purchase the catwisker material used on the c and k model hardtop models I have a 55 speedster with worn torn and missing flipper catwhisker. I've managed to remove the old stuf from under the lip of inner and outer sections and need the new whiskers.

    Any sugestions would be welcome

    Forrest

  • #2
    the neatest idea I've heard was to glue in some velcro instead of trying to replicate the original. I don't see why that wouldn't work well. You can get it in rolls at a fabric store.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      C model is the coupe, only the K model is the hardtop.
      I haven't done any hardtops so don't know the configuration of the whiskers on the flippers.
      J. C. Whitley sells a variety of sizes, with and without stainless bead,in six foot lengths, if you can match the width and thickness.
      Enough of these K bodies have been restored to show condition by professional Stude restorers that one of them should be able to steer you to a source. Try Craig Piper at Westmoreland Restorations, Blairsville, Pa.; producing show winners over thirty years. Currently completing two Packard Hawks.
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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      • #4
        The guy at Champ Specialty Parts in Idaho has them at $2.45 per foot. Call 208-390-6306 or go to studebakerglass.com

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        • #5
          I just went and took a look at my '53 K, same flippers. The fuzzy part looks like its crimped under the outer edge of the stainless flipper and the rest is glued. The width of the exposed fuzzy is about 3/8". I think I'd just carfully cut along the crimped edge and pull off the rotten stuff. Clean well and then use contact cement to glue some new material on. Believe me, you don't want to mangle that stainless or warp it in any way trying to pry up the crimp and sliding new material under there. These things don't seem to work very well under the best of conditions as it is. I've never been able to get one side on my car to "snap" despite messing with rubber shims and screw tightness for hours.

          Nate's idea of the fuzzy side of the velco sounds like a good idea. There must be some other materials that would work as well. You can't use some pre-made stuff with a metal strip already attached. Also, anything too thick will affect the fit around the window frame.

          Jeff

          '53 Champion Hardtop

          Jeff in ND

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          • #6
            I used the fuzzy half of a roll of velcro and its still on there five years later. It is almost identical to the original stuff. I was able to pull the original stuff from under the crimp and got that edge of the velcro under the crimp without any damage. I used an xacto to help push it under the crimp. On my 58 K Hawk the original fuzzy was pretty brittle and that helped when I pulled it out. If its still stuck then you may also be stuck just fitting it up to that edge. Just take a xacto knife and cut it carefully.

            Mike
            www.packardhawk.com

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