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Crank hub installer

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  • Crank hub installer

    Does anyone have a detailed drawing of a crank hub installer. I'd like to make one and have it ready when it comes time to assemble my 232 gone 289 engine? Thanks for any help,

    Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.
    Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

  • #2
    Darryl,
    Fairborne parts has them, I'm sure it's faster and cheaper to buy theirs. I boughe one from Ted Harbit (before he sold the business to Phil). I've used it many times...works great!
    Dan Miller

    Road Racers turn left AND right.

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    • #3
      Darryl,
      Dumb me[B)] I live about 30-40 minutes from you... You are welcome to borrow it..Let me know.
      Dan

      Road Racers turn left AND right.

      Comment


      • #4

        Whassamatta with the slide it on the nose and tighten the bolt technique?
        64 GT Hawk (K7)
        1970 Avanti (R3)

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        • #5
          Even though it's a keyed shaft and hub, it is still an interference fit, therefore requiring an installation tool.(see shop manual) Installing in any other manner may damage the crank snout, the hub, and the bolt threads as well as the threads in the crank.
          Dan

          Road Racers turn left AND right.

          Comment


          • #6
            Warm the hub in an oven and it will slide right on.
            Klif

            55 Speedster
            42 Champ Coupe
            55 Speedster/Street Machine
            63 Avanti R2
            64 Convertible R1

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the help. Dan, where in GA. are you located? When I get to the point of actually needing one I might take you up on your offer, thanks. I asked about the possibility of making one because I work in a machine shop and from what I've read thought it might not be too hard of a build. Then again I've never seen one up close to examine. And thanks Klif, Sounds like warming in an oven might also work [has with bearings and other stuff.

              Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.
              Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

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              • #8
                Is there a link on this site to prints of Studebaker tools?

                Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.
                Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Kilf,
                  In some cases heating works very well, but here you would have to get that big thick hub (as opposed to a bearing race) pretty dad gum hot to expand it and I think you would risk damage to the seal, especially if it was converted to the lip type. Just my opinion. That may be why the shop manual dosen't offer that method.
                  Darryl,
                  There may be some, but those tools were customarly made by one of the specialty tool makers, ie Kent-Moore. The biggest obsticle is the diameter of the bolt...measure it and you'll see. I even had a fellow take a next size larger and re-thread it to the correct size...waste of time. The tool is worth the $s if you use it often. As for my location, I'm right over here off I-85, as I said, 30-40 minutes away. I'm in the roster. Hope this helps
                  Dan

                  Road Racers turn left AND right.

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                  • #10
                    There are machinist's drawings by Ingvar Vik for that tool and others in the June 1981 Turning Wheels.


                    Dwain G.

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                    • #11
                      I've given thought to the heat method myself Klif, but as Dan says, the thought of damaging the lip seal has made me think otherwise. NOW - maybe if you're just trying to work out end play, it might make it easier, but once you put the timing cover on, you risk damaging the seal.[8]

                      Miscreant at large.

                      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                      1960 Larkvertible V8
                      1958 Provincial wagon
                      1953 Commander coupe
                      1957 President 2-dr
                      1955 President State
                      1951 Champion Biz cpe
                      1963 Daytona project FS
                      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                      • #12
                        You get it warm, not HOT. I've done it several times, and it works vary well.
                        Klif

                        55 Speedster
                        42 Champ Coupe
                        55 Speedster/Street Machine
                        63 Avanti R2
                        64 Convertible R1

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks again for the help. As far as setting crank end play goes Chuck Lampman's new book has a trick using a piece of pipe about a half inch longer than the crank snout and a large flat washer. I plan on using this method for setting the end play. All replies are appreciated.

                          Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.
                          Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

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                          • #14
                            What book is Chuck Lampmans ? I'm interested in the end play
                            idea.
                            Bill H
                            Daytona Beach
                            SDC member since 1970
                            Owner of The Skeeter Hawk .

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                            • #15
                              I am embarrassed to say that I just used a hammer & tapped it on.[:I]
                              These days, with what I know about tools, I would use a brass hammer,
                              and not the regular hardened that I used back then. If you go around
                              the diameter of the part, it will go on. A simple tool would be a bolt
                              that threads into the crank, with a nut on the shaft, and a couple
                              large thick washers to spread the load. You tighten the bolt into the
                              crank end, then hold the bolt head, and tighten in the nut, pushing
                              the hub onto the crank, and the stress is on the threads on the bolt,
                              not taking the chance of stripping the crank snout.

                              Tom
                              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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