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    Have 1958 Golden Hawk with power windows...
    Every thing I can see is unbolted...Still can't get side windows out. Do they pull up from the top of the door in one piece? As you know there is only a couple of small holes in the inside door panel to work through. Any HELP.


  • #2
    They do, but you do need to remove the vent widow. (step by step in the shop manual)

    Studebaker On The Net
    64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper)
    63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
    JDP Maryland


    • #3
      I might add that the factory windows were installed in the regulator base (track) with a rubber gasket of sorts. This gasket had a lip to one side. The intent was to deflect water away from regulator parts. (It was a feeble gesture at best.
      Thing is, 40 - 50 years later, if that lip's still intact, it's now hard as a rock! The consequence of this is that it seems right impossible to pull the glass & track up even after you've removed the cat's whisker strips and the vent window. The culprit can be that rock hard rubber. Go ahead and break off that hard ruber lip. Likely as not, you'll wanna have the glass reset anyways. And you'll find that that lipped rubber gasketing is no longer available anywhere. They just use the regular ol' flat strip stuff that secures the glass to the track.

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


      • #4

        Did you take out the two cotter like clips and washers that are on the bottom of the window in the two bottom sliding tracks?

        I've taken out a few windows, and it seems to me that you can get the window out without taking the vent out. The window comes up through the opening into the car sideways. Channel tracks are at the front and back. Remove the catwhiskers on both sides at the top of the doors, and replace with tape so you don't scratch the finish or the window. Nothing replaces a manual to know where the clips and other bolts are. They are usually identified with an arrow in the manual.



        • #5
          Having taken my '53 hardtop apart, the only items I can add over the possible issues already mentioned (catwhiskers, rubber flap, clips) is to make sure the potmetal stop is out of the top of the vent frame/track. Pulls right out after the 2 countersunk screws are out. Pretty obvious one there I'll admit . There is also a bolt in the bottom of the window frame that acts as a stop. Has a big star washer on it. You'll need to take that out. One other thing I did that helped is loosen the bottom track screws. There are 2 near the upper rear corner of the door. Loosed that and let it drop down some. Your rollers are probably stuck too and adding some resistance to sliding the window up. You also may have to spread the door open a bit to squeeze the window frame though, especially due to that rubber flap. Be careful with that! Some plastic or wood wedges may help but I just used my hand.

          '53 Champion Hardtop

          Jeff in ND