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electricial wiring '62 stude

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  • electricial wiring '62 stude

    I don't want to burn up my 62 wagon but I have noticed that the fuse at the base of the light switch gets very hot when I turn on the ignition switch. The fuse apparently connects both to the windshild wipers and the turn signals. When I turn on the ignition and do not use the wipers or the turn signals it still gets hot. It has a 15 amp fuse that has not blown. I have disconnected the wipers at the motor and also the turn signals at the steering column. This has no effect. What could possibly be the problem? Any thoughts is most assuredly appreciated. Chet

  • #2
    Sounds like a combination of a short and a bad fuse. Replace the fuse and see if the new one blows. Get a volt meter and trace the wiring from the switch to the wipers and turn signals when they are both off. This should identify the shorted wire. Do both the turn signals and the wipers work correctly? Is the problem better or worse when one or the other is on?

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    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by whacker

      Sounds like a combination of a short and a bad fuse. Replace the fuse and see if the new one blows. Get a volt meter and trace the wiring from the switch to the wipers and turn signals when they are both off. This should identify the shorted wire. Do both the turn signals and the wipers work correctly? Is the problem better or worse when one or the other is on?
      The wiring is completely new however there could be a short. The fuse does not blow it just gets very hot to touch. I have replaced it to no avail. I will do the tracing and hope to find the ground, thank you. Chet

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      • #4
        Are you sure there's not a cable or something that's shorting against the "powered" clip (maybe from the backside of that little board)? That would cause things to get hot without blowing the fuse.

        Miscreant at large.

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        1957 President 2-dr
        1955 President State
        1951 Champion Biz cpe
        1963 Daytona project FS
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by whacker

          Sounds like a combination of a short and a bad fuse. Replace the fuse and see if the new one blows. Get a volt meter and trace the wiring from the switch to the wipers and turn signals when they are both off. This should identify the shorted wire. Do both the turn signals and the wipers work correctly? Is the problem better or worse when one or the other is on?
          I have dug deeper into my wiring problems and have this much to report. The fuse does not blow even when it gets hot. The fuse area stays cool except when the turn signals are turned on (both right and left); when turned on the fuse clip warms up too hot to touch. I checked the wiring up the steering column and have no short that is, there is no wire grounded. As soon as I turn the signals off the fuse cools down. The harness is new obtained from SASCO. As for the wipers, I think the wiper motor is shot. I can't get it to move at all even when I give it direct current form the battery.

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          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

            Are you sure there's not a cable or something that's shorting against the "powered" clip (maybe from the backside of that little board)? That would cause things to get hot without blowing the fuse.

            Miscreant at large.

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President 2-dr
            1955 President State
            1951 Champion Biz cpe
            1963 Daytona project FS
            Please see my reply to whacker...Thanks, Chet

            Comment


            • #7
              No offense to the die hards that believe the car should be built exactly as South Bend built it, but the way Studebaker handled their wiring, these cars are a fire waiting to happen. My suggestion (I know many will cringe at this thought), but get a harness from Painless or similar company with a modern fuse panel.

              After pulling the dash and looking at the spaghetti called a wiring harness, I'd put a modern harness in a restoration before leaving the 40 or 50+ year harness in it. JMHO.

              ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
              Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

              Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

              1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
              Tom - Bradenton, FL

              1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
              1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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              • #8
                Resistence causes heat when you have a load on the connection.
                suggest you clean the fuse and the fuse clip and check the spring tension of the fuse clip, fuse should be held tight by the clip, if loose or bent may not have good connection.

                steve strait

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                • #9
                  I would disconnect the wires from the fuse at the base of the light switch one by one to determine which is causing the short/extra resistance. Something has to be connected for there to be heat.
                  I wpild have suspected the wiper motor since it doesn't work, but you said that was disconnected.

                  Suggest you use an ammeter i line to figure out which circuit is drawing the power.

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