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Rear brake drums

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  • jackb
    replied
    .....and do be careful not to warp the drum on removal, or you'll hear it all the time, and it will sicken you when you hit the brakes...

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Did I see some one type beer. Beer will get a lot of things done just dont bring it out till we're done. I'm in south west Mo. just north of Branson.

    Tony

    61 Lark
    61 Lark Cruser VIII

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  • N8N
    replied
    You have a bridgeport...? I'll bring beer if I can come over and make a few parts

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied

    Thanks for the repy I have already mounted the hub on a rotary table on my bridgeport and drilled taped and counter sunk three holes to locate the drum to the hub. I have a old axle stub that I can mount the drum on and true it on the lathe. You guys are realy great to help a novice stude owner.

    Thanks Tony



    61 Lark
    61 Lark Cruser VIII

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  • Sonny
    replied
    Yep, there's a way to do that Tony, (but of course you're gonna have to remove the drum/hub assembly in one piece, one more time).

    After you get the assembly off, always soak the studs and center area with penetrating oil thoroughly, then press out the wheel studs. Next, separate the hub and drum. After they're separated, I use a Dremmel-type, hand grinder to grind the drum where the hub goes through it, evenly and just enough so they come apart easily. You may need to dress up the drum in the area where the wheel studs go through too, but do all of it just enough so there's no locking action between the hub and drum. Also, make sure to remove any rust that you find anywhere the hub and drum meet. Go to any FLAPS, get wheel studs with shorter shoulders than the originals had, press 'em in and voila, removable drums.

    You can find those flat metal clips that screw on to hold the drum tight with the wheel off, at the FLAPS, but I think they're more of a pain in the butt than anything.

    Have patience when you're pressing the pieces out/apart, soaking the parts with good penetrating oil and letting them set does help. Clean up the hub real good with a wire brush/sand paper where it pokes through the drum before you try to separate them too. I've also had to use heat to get the studs out and get the hub/drums apart, so take your time. You'll need a good press and some fairly tall, heavy metal blocks to support the drum evenly while you press the center hub out. You have to take care during that operation because it's actually pretty easy to warp the drum if you're not careful.


    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Thanks for the reply. The old military jeeps had press on hubs and three countersunk screws to hold the drums in place. Was thinking about doing that. I'm not trying to change or modify the old car just trying to put it back on the road. I got the old Lark out of a fence row for free it only has 29,000 miles on it. The old body is very bad rusty the floor boards and finder wells are almost gone. Just trying to make a everyday beater to drive to work.
    Thanks Tony

    61 Lark
    61 Lark Cruser VIII

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Tony,

    Some folks have done this and it's fairly easy. I won't, simply because[}] Because it's not what Studebaker did and surely they had a reason.
    What some have done (in some cases, by chance) is to have the lug studs pressed out, and then have new ones installed (in the hub) WITHOUT the drum in place. This allows the drum to come off without the hub. It also relies on the wheel and lug nuts to hold the drum in place. Lotsa Brand Xs went this route, although I'm not sure about one's that had tapered axles.
    Some had 2 or 3 1/4" bolts that held the drum in place when you took the wheel off. The 1/4" bolts didn't have any real significance other than just holding the drum on when you changed wheels. I know Ramblers were like that.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest started a topic Rear brake drums

    Rear brake drums

    Long time reader first time poster. I just drug in a 61 lark that had been sitting for about 20 years and haqve started fixing the brakes. The front end was a easy job the back has been a diferent story. I was wondering if there was any way to fix the back drums so that you could remove them without pulling the hubs. The car has a six cylinder automatic with the TT rear end and standard brakes.

    Thanks Tony

    61 Lark
    61 Lark Cruser VIII
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