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vacuum advance?

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  • vacuum advance?

    i have a 64 lark with a 289. it has a 2b carb. i am thinking my vacuum advance is bad but another opinion would be great. when my car sits for more then 4 or 5 hours after driving it, it won't start. i have to spray starter fluid in there to get it to fire up, and once i have warmed it up and get on the road it is very hesitant, if i give it too much gas at low rpm's it will bog down and die. i am almost positive my fuel pump is good, but this really sounds like a vacuum problem. it has been like this since i bought it and i drive it everyday, which makes for a pain when its time to go to work or leave work. thanks for any help.

    slow64
    bd_marks@yahoo.com

  • #2
    Have you actually removed the pump and checked it? How about the accelerator pump on the carb, is it working OK? Have you looked to see if your fuel filter is filling up with crud? You know that if you have a stock pump there is a filter in the pump right? Really sounds like fuel to me...

    good luck,

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      i acually removed the pump today and it looked pretty clean inside, i am not sure how to check the accelerator pump on the carb. i am not a auto mech so i need feed back kinda barny style. and i checked the inline filter from the pump to the carb and it was good too.

      slow64
      bd_marks@yahoo.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Just remove the air cleaner with the engine off, then work the throttle linkage with your hand. Do you see two little spurts of gas shooting into the barrels of the carb? If not that will cause a bog when you try to accelerate.

        good luck

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        62 Daytona hardtop
        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

        Comment


        • #5
          well i tried what you said and nothing spurted out, and with the engine on fuel only came out of one side and it was apretty small drizzle, hardly a spurt. could this have to do with the (don't know the technical names) plunger conected to the throttle linkage. i have a few spare carb parts and that is one of them.

          slow64
          bd_marks@yahoo.com

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          • #6
            That "plunger" is the accelerator pump... probably the leather is hardened. If you are lucky you can pop the top of the carb (warning: that big screw that forms the accelerator pump linkage pivot is left hand thread) pull the accel pump, oil it up with some neatsfoot oil or even engine oil - just get it softened up - reinstall and all will be good. It definitely would cause an issue with acceleration.

            That said, you might need to rebuild the carb, only coming out one side makes me think that maybe you have an issue with dirt in there that needs to be cleaned out, but you won't know until you have checked the accel pump. Also might as well check your float level while you have the top off just to rule that out as a possible problem.

            good luck,

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            62 Daytona hardtop
            http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

            Comment


            • #7
              i know i sound pretty ignorant, but what do you mean by checking the float level? and how do i check. bare with me please.

              slow64
              bd_marks@yahoo.com

              Comment


              • #8
                well i rebuilt the carb tonight but didn't have time to re-install it. i did check the carb pump though and it shot fuel out. oh and it was missing one of the small ball bearings too, maybe why only one side was spurting before. i am anxious to see if this solves my problems but will have to wait til tomorrow.

                slow64
                bd_marks@yahoo.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  A missing check ball will certainly cause things to be wierd... here's hoping you've found your problem.

                  nate

                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  62 Daytona hardtop
                  http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    When you rebuilt the carb, hopfully 2 things were done: you installed a new needle & seat(these are in the threaded fitting that screws into the carb and connects your incoming fuel line, and you replaced the float axle (small nail with no head). What was the condition of your plunger leather on the accelerator pump ? If it was torn or twisted around, there's your answer....Also, those floats were notorious for "sticking" especially in hot weather. Hence me asking you about the float axle. If you get poor idle, and continued poor acceleration, try slapping down hard on your air filter housing while the car is running, and see if there's any improvement. Those Strombergs were fond of loading up on stuck floats. I add a bit of Mystery oil every other tankful....I was told it helped clean the fuel system, including the pivot points inside the carb (float axle),
                    aided in vapor lock, and made me feel good <g>. Let us know how the car runs after install...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have never had an instance of a sticky float in a Stromberg. Not saying it can't happen - just that it's not happened to me[:I]
                      benny's problem is classic, failed accelerator pump. BUT.... That one missing "ball bearing". If it's the one that sits in the bottom of the accerlerator pump well, it's gonna cause symptoms like a bad pump leather![B)] That ball (actualy, it's a valve) allows fuel from the bowl to be drawn in on the upstroke of the pump but closes off that port when the pump comes down (when you step on the gas). If that ball was not there or was the wrong size (there's another one in the outlet circuit of some Strombergs that's a different size and it's job is to keep the pump from drawing in air on it's upstroke, instead of fuel from the bowl.), this could let the pump simply push the fuel back into the bowl instead of the venturis - hence the stumbling of the engine when you step on the gas.[}]

                      Miscreant at large.

                      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                      1960 Larkvertible V8
                      1958 Provincial wagon
                      1953 Commander coupe
                      1957 President 2-dr
                      1955 President State
                      1951 Champion Biz cpe
                      1963 Daytona project FS
                      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ahhh Mystery Oil. Best friend of the Studebaker engine!

                        My Studes:
                        1.1947 Commander 14A-C3
                        2.1948 Champion 2 door sedan (parts car)
                        3.1948 Champion 2 door sedan
                        4.1950 Champion 2 door sedan
                        5.1959 Lark 2 door post
                        6.1964 Stude challenger 2 door

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          quote:If that ball was not there or was the wrong size (there's another one in the outlet circuit of some Strombergs that's a different size
                          ............................................
                          Just the other day I ran across an old overhaul instruction for a Stromberg, and many years ago I had written 'Eliminate', with an arrow pointing to that small check ball that goes below the pump nozzle. I do not remember where I got the information to eliminate that ball, or why one would. I don't remember any bulletins stating such. Anyone ever have a problem with that ball causing a restriction?

                          Dwain G.

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                          • #14
                            well i changed out the needle and seat, the leather on the old pump was poor, plus the spring that wraps around the plunger under the leather was coming apart. so i changed that out with one that looks like a newer version of the old, it has another metal washer above the leather. so BIGGS, were you saying that there is supposed to be another ball under the pump "plunger" there was a spring of course but no ball down there. the car runs a lot better now and starts after a few try's with some heavy pumping on the pedal. but when i disconnect the linkage from the pedal and work the plunger by hand it works great, but with everything hooked up it works but barely, causing me to have to pump the gas about ten times to get a good start. any advise on adjusting the linkage or taking out slop?
                            oh yeh, i didn't change the float axle, but it seemed to work great, if it ain't broke don't fix it right.
                            slow64
                            bd_marks@yahoo.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yup, there's supposed to be a ball in the bottom of the pump well. Usually, there's a little retainer "grille" that holds the ball in place - but I've come across some where the ball's just laying in it's hole. Works fine that way - just so it IS there.[}] If it isn't there, some of the fuel MAY dribble into the venturies where there should be a healthy squirt, but much of it is just gonna be pushed back thru the hole where that ball would be acting as a one-way check valve and go back into the fuel bowl.
                              There is some slop in the accelerator pump linkage and I confess I've addressed this by adding some small diameter retraction springs that I got from "somewhere". It works great and eliminates virtually all the slop that was there when I got the tired old carb.[)]
                              This carb I speak of is a tired old veteran of a Stromberg that was on my Transtar when I got it in 1989. It's tired alright, but the damn truck runs SO good with that carb that I'm reluctant to change it out![]

                              Miscreant at large.

                              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                              1960 Larkvertible V8
                              1958 Provincial wagon
                              1953 Commander coupe
                              1957 President 2-dr
                              1955 President State
                              1951 Champion Biz cpe
                              1963 Daytona project FS
                              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                              Comment

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