Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Carburetor Reconditioning

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Carburetor Reconditioning

    My original Carter AFB 4bbl is puking gas all over the place. My buddy thinks the float is stuck (or shot) or something else internal is gunked up. I'd like to retain the original carb rather than replace it.

    Has anyone dealt with one of these places where you send your carb off to them and the completely rebuild/recondition it for a couple of hundred bucks? Is it worth it? Any suggestions as to who to send it to?

    Thanks. jsp

    '63 Daytona Convertible

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by PalmerGA

    My original Carter AFB 4bbl is puking gas all over the place. My buddy thinks the float is stuck (or shot) or something else internal is gunked up. I'd like to retain the original carb rather than replace it.

    Has anyone dealt with one of these places where you send your carb off to them and the completely rebuild/recondition it for a couple of hundred bucks? Is it worth it? Any suggestions as to who to send it to?
    Thanks. jsp
    '63 Daytona Convertible
    It sounds like your buddy may be right. Yep, there's places to send that old carb, and probably the best bet if you're dead serious about keeping the WCFB, since the old carbs tend to get porous and loaded with vacuum leaks over the years. The good companies recoat them and bush the throttle shafts to cure a lot of the ills.

    BUT, why not pop that thing off and try a rebuild kit yourself? It sounds like the floats may have developed a leak or mebbe there's just some crap in the needle and seat. There's a lot that you can check and/or at least get an idea about what you're facing as far as a rebuild. OR, set that old carb aside and slap on a new Edelbrock, they really make a great difference. That, and you'll have sticker shock when you see what the right rebuild on the old carb. is gonna cost! A new Edelbrock, with a warranty, is $239.00, all day long, at any good FLAPS. If ya ever sell the car, just tell 'em that the original carb. is in the trunk.

    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com
    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com

    Comment


    • #3
      I agree with Sonny.
      Unless you send it to a "custom/hot rod" type shop, you probably will "not" be happy when you get it back.

      Most standard rebuild shops (maybe not all !)....you'll be lucky if you get all of YOUR parts put back in, e.g. boosters (4 ea.), metering rods (2 ea.), correct jets (4 ea.), etc., etc.

      I can give you two horror stories about plain ol Rochester 2 barrels that people sent in and came back with incorrect parts inside of them and did not run as good as before the "rebuild" !

      Get a rebuild kit, some carb. cleaner (soak style) and do it your self.
      If you can take it off....you can rebuild it. Just follow the instructions. The floats......drop'em in water....do they float or sink? Shake'em a little, do they make sloshing sounds?

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Sonny and Mike.... I see your point. I may just do the rebuild thing or a replacement carb. 'Preciate it.

        '63 Daytona Convertible

        Comment


        • #5
          Time for a carb update: I decided to go with a new carb and have installed an Edelbrock 600 cfm that sits on a 1 inch riser to get the linkage clearance that I need. I replaced the fuel, vac, and PCV hoses and the fuel filter as well. I am a bit leary about the throttle linkage though.

          As you know, the end of the throttle linkage that bolts to the carb is a very short 1/4" threaded stud. The carb linkage hole that this connects to is much larger than the one on the original Carter AFB. I've not found a way to compensate for the size difference other than to build up the threaded stud with washers. Is this going to be safe and reliable? It doesn't give me a very good feeling.

          Does anyone know of another linkage that I could use without the need for modification, or is there a better approach I should be considering? Thanks (again).

          Palmer

          '63 Daytona Convertible

          Comment


          • #6
            JSP,

            As long as you haven't started it yet..............?
            Unless you have a pretty highly modified 259 or a real hot rod 289, you might think about swapping the 600 for a 500cfm carburetor.
            Better throttle response, better milage, better all around drivablity.

            As for the linkage, there should be a 1/4" (or so) right below the big "bushing" hole. Use that one, the stud should work just fine. Slightly quicker reaction, you'll never notice it past the first 100 miles.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the tip Mike. I haven't noticed the smaller hole, but I'll look again. Also, I've heard varying opinions about the 600 vs 500 cfm and came to the conclusion that the 500 cfm might not have quite enough "ooomph" for my 289 Power Pack engine. What are the main pros for picking the 500 vs the cons for picking the 600?

              Thanks again.

              Jim

              '63 Daytona Convertible

              Comment


              • #8
                One consideration is the requirements of the engine. A 289 at 6,000 rpm will use a theoretical 501.74 cubic feet of air per minute. Nominally an 85% factor is thrown in, resulting in 426.48 Cu Ft per minute. Anything over 500 is just wasted, unless you plan to exceed 7,000, which requires 497 Cu Ft.

                Tom Bredehoft
                '53 Commander Coupe
                '60 Lark VI

                Comment


                • #9
                  Jim,

                  This is what will happen...
                  You put on the 600 and it'll feel just fine. You'll play with the jetting and you may get it a bit better running and you'll be fairly happy.

                  AND / OR

                  You'll borrow a good 500 Carter / Edelbrock, put it on...and you'll say...yea, the smaller carburetor does work better, then you'll take the time to tune it properly...power will go up, drivability will go up and the milage will go up.

                  Trust me....been playing with this stuff a long time. Some combinations you can go oversize on the carburetor...but as Tom said, this isn't one of them. The 500cfm carb. is a real good all around size for all but the highest powered Stude engines of ANY size.

                  On one engine I had in a Chevy II...I played with spacers, just spacers. 1/2", 1", open, 4 hole.....months. People don't take the time to learn what does what and what "other" adjustments can be made that will effect the combination. Everything is a combination. You have to take the time to adjust everything "to each other" to get the most out of what you're playing with.

                  In case you're wondering.........no..I don't have any hair!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Okay guys... you've convinced me to try the 500 (I haven't put any as in the 600 yet). Thanks for your input. I'll report results soon.

                    '63 Daytona Convertible

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I am interested in replacing the Carter WCFB with the Edelbrock 500 as well, is there a particular Edelbrock part number I need to be concerned with? Thanks for the help.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by CKOT

                        I am interested in replacing the Carter WCFB with the Edelbrock 500 as well, is there a particular Edelbrock part number I need to be concerned with? Thanks for the help.
                        The 500 CFM Edelbrock w/ electric choke is #1403. W/ manual choke is #1404. Mine (#1403) should be in today, through Advance Auto Parts. Anxious to get it installed and fired up.

                        '63 Daytona Convertible

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Excellent, thanks for the info. We have an Advance in town as well, think I'll head down and get mine as well

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by CKOT

                            Excellent, thanks for the info. We have an Advance in town as well, think I'll head down and get mine as well
                            The only downside is that they have to order it from the factory. Mine took 5 days to get via UPS. Just picked it up!

                            '63 Daytona Convertible

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Dumb question, but I have a WCFB currently installed. I know the throat size is smaller than the AFB/Edelbrock, what about the mounting to the intake? Will the Edelbrock fit on a intake that ad a WCFB?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X