Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage:
See more
See less

Cracked Screws

This topic is closed.
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cracked Screws

    Hey again....Was taking off the front signal lenses off the Avanti when, 3 of the 4 screws broke off..Their stuck inside the lamp housing. Any suggestions in getting them out without ruining the housing ??? Thank you...

  • #2
    Corrosion.... Electrolysis...Grrrrr

    You are in a tough spot.
    Drilling and picking out the scraps is what you are facing...
    And to make it harder, a lot of those screws are made of a pretty hard material.
    Patience and perserverence will pay off here....

    And prevention....

    One thing I have been doing is to remove all the screws one at a time and put some dielectric grease on the screw threads, or in the screw hole. This grease is designed to prevent corrosion by displacing the air and any water that may get in there. It won't hurt plastic or rubber, and is designed not to wash out or evaporate.

    A good maintenance tip on any pot metal part....
    Hope the info helps....

    quote:Originally posted by bonehead007

    Hey again....Was taking off the front signal lenses off the Avanti when, 3 of the 4 screws broke off..Their stuck inside the lamp housing. Any suggestions in getting them out without ruining the housing ??? Thank you...
    '61 Hawk
    '37 Coupe Express
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain

    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)


    • #3
      Jeff hit it right on the head, no real easy, "standard" method to deal with that bonehead.... If it's possible, (I'm not sure what the Avanti mount looks like), take the whole assembly out before you try to get the screws out. It's a LOT easier chasing them around the bench than bending over with a pair of needlenose pliers. In fact, with the assemblies out, "usually" you can get to the back of the screw to hit it with penetrating oil. Good luck partner.



      • #4
        Locally, there's a fella that's been a Stude nut all his life (his dad was a mechanic for the local Stude dealer). This fella builds (HAND-builds) recording microphones for the music industry. (Last I heard, the mics cost $12K apiece!)(and folks are standin' in line to get a pair!)
        Anyway, he's convinced me that plain old petrolem jelly (Vaseline) is THE best corrosion inhibitor you can use for electrical/electronic use. I've come to embrace his thinking - even tho I've done electrical fabrication and repair most of my working years, where this was never mentioned.

        Now this guy's so sure of PJ's usefulness that he's taken to offering the stuff as "his own formulation" of anti-corrosive.
        See, no one in the recording industry would believe his claims as to the stuff's worth. So to get them to use it, he decided that he'd modify it with some inconsequential addative and sell it as his "special mix" anti-corrosive. NOW, it gets embraced - and of course, the "ingredients" are a trade secret![}]

        Miscreant at large.

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        1957 President 2-dr
        1955 President State
        1951 Champion Biz cpe
        1963 Daytona project FS
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


        • #5
          well i don't know too much about prevention for your case but i deal with busted hardware everyday. the best way to get any broken bolt out is with a easy-out kit. drill a small hole into the screw, hammer that easy out bit in there, conect the handle, or vise grips and back it out. it saves the trouble of drilling the entire screw out or damaging more then you need to.



          • #6
            I doubt there is an easy-out made small enough for lens screws! The only advice I can offer is to drill it out, try to retap the hole, and hope everything works out OK.

            Just did this yesterday for two (?!?!?) of the water pump manifold to block bolts... now that was a PITA... but at least they're big enough if I'd munged it up I could have used Helicoils... (I got lucky though)

            Note to anyone who works on engines - if a bolt head isn't marked at least grade 5, don't use it! One of the bolts snapped off when I attempted to snug it up to stop a leak - when I cleaned the head off here it was perfectly smooth and unmarked (i.e. ungraded crap) D'OH! At least that one was easy to drill through :/

            Oddly enough that bolt broke off above the surface of the block, so I tried to use the MIG welder trick with it. I simply could not weld to the bolt...? Started off with a nut which I could weld to fine, but I couldn't get any penetration on the bolt. Same with a piece of steel bar stock, finally I just built up a big blob on the bolt head and tried to grab that with vice grips - twisted right off. I dunno what that bolt was made of, but it wasn't what we consider "steel..."


            55 Commander Starlight
            62 Daytona hardtop
            55 Commander Starlight


            • #7
              Probably one of those "special" chinese bolts N8N. I hate that our fine Country is letting that garbage in here. I think it's plastic with a chrome coating We went from Studebaker to 3rdworldebaker in just 40 years Pretty Sad

              My Studes:
              1.1947 Commander 14A-C3
              2.1948 Champion 2 door sedan (parts car)
              3.1948 Champion 2 door sedan
              4.1950 Champion 2 door sedan
              5.1959 Lark 2 door post
              6.1964 Stude challenger 2 door