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1966 Cruiser erratic starting

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  • 1966 Cruiser erratic starting

    Hi,

    I'm looking for advice on trying to locate the problem in the 1966 Cruiser I'm working on. The battery seems good (it's only a year old and there don't seem to be any system drains on it), but sometimes the car starter works fine and other times when I turn the key I get a "click" and nothing happens.

    The battery cables have been been checked to make sure the connection is good, clean and tight. I tend to think it isn't the starter because sometimes when I turn the key it just clicks, and then the next time I turn the key the starter fires up like it's supposed to. Does that sound like something to do with the solenoid? Other wire connections? Could it be the ignition switch? Or maybe it is the starter??

    I'm hoping there's somebody out there who has experienced this. Of course it mostly only happens to me and not the mechanics working on the car (although they noticed it a couple times). I'd like to drive the car daily for a while, but I can't afford to play Russian roulette about getting it started! Thanks for any suggestions.

  • #2
    Scott
    it sounds lie a dead spot on the starter armarture
    hope I'm wrong
    John

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    • #3
      Sounds like the solenoid to me. First choice would be a bad connection but you've stated all that was checked.[}]

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        Those Chevy starters will fool you sometimes.
        My brothers 92 Chevy Truck 5.7 V8, the starter would pass the ground hop test but once back in the truck, wouldnt crank the engine.

        New solenoid didnt make any difference.
        Rebuilt starter did.

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        • #5
          Scott Mr Biggs is right . If you want to check get some one to help you and and with car not starting check for voltage at the post from solenoid to the starter no voltage = bad solenoid . good luck Jack

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          • #6
            The next time that happens, get a big hammer and whack the starter then try it again. If it starts, you've got a dead spot on the armature.

            ________________________
            Mark Anderson
            http://home.alltel.net/anderm
            1965 Studebaker Cruiser

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            • #7
              One thing about it, while I haven't checked of late, that starter/solenoid assy should still be available at your local auto parts store - and fairly reasonable too.

              Miscreant at large.

              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
              1960 Larkvertible V8
              1958 Provincial wagon
              1953 Commander coupe
              1957 President 2-dr
              1955 President State
              1951 Champion Biz cpe
              1963 Daytona project FS
              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

              Comment


              • #8
                I like the whack it with a hammer part... its a chev. what could it hurt

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey, I've started many a GM vehicle that way[]

                  ________________________
                  Mark Anderson
                  http://home.alltel.net/anderm
                  1965 Studebaker Cruiser

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    i've had a few chevys with a hammer under the seat,just for starter rapping.Sometimes you needed a helper to turn the key while you beat the starter though!

                    not golden hawk,not silver hawk,just hawk.
                    Oglesby,Il.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well, Mr Biggs was right. My local Bumper to Bumper store had a rebuilt starter with solenoid ready to go for $51. Even the core charge was only $15. I couldn't go wrong, so I bought it and the shop tells me the problem is fixed. Now, on to the alternator...

                      I'm not really enthusistic about the GM 283, but at least the parts are easier to find and cheaper than many Stude parts. That's probably the only thing it beat the Studebaker engine at nowadays (who says I'm biased?).
                      "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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