Oil. Which type?

[studeclunker]

I remember reading on this forum about the virtues of diesel motor oil. Somewhere I think someone recomended it. Can anyone illuminate me? Which oil is the best for these old studes? Now, I realize this is a completely subjective question/answer thing.[:I] Still, I want to get the most reliable performance out of my aged lil' Larks.
Currently my cars all have Quakerstate 10W/40. I've used this for years with good results.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[JDP]

N8 taught me to use the diesel oil, lots of detergents. It'll clean up a old Studebaker engine in a few oil changes.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

[Transtar60]

I use 15W40 Rotella in all my Stude engines except I used the 30wt in a 1961 OHV six. Makes it easy for my as both my diesel tractors and my diesel truck use the same oil. About $350 for a 55 gal drum. I usually buy the 5 gal buckets tho at about $32 a bucket.

[Sonny]

quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

I remember reading on this forum about the virtues of diesel motor oil. Somewhere I think someone recomended it. Can anyone illuminate me? Which oil is the best for these old studes? Now, I realize this is a completely subjective question/answer thing.[:I] Still, I want to get the most reliable performance out of my aged lil' Larks.
Currently my cars all have Quakerstate 10W/40. I've used this for years with good results.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

I think that you're exactly right, like most things, which product is better is very subjective, unless you're faced with irrefutable evidence, scientific or otherwise. Lemme suggest that you use the diesel oil, don't mix brands, but pick a good, quality brand and try it for yourself. That's how I was convinced. You couldn't get me to use anything but Castrol, but after I got my first diesel truck, saw what diesel oil did for it, (not only a convenience factor), every fuel powered machine that I own has diesel oil in it! [^]

Your call, I'd never try to steer a fella wrong on something I think is so important, but the stuff is awesome.



Sonny

http://RacingStudebakers.com

[studeclunker]

Thanks again all!! I thought I saw this before and was'nt able to locate it again.[:I] The guy at the NAPA store tried to talk me out of the diesel type oil. I told him I would double check with you guys and get back with him.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[Tom Bredehoft]

It seems that there are zinc compounds present in Diesel grade oil that if passed through a catalytic converter would plug it up, but since our Studebakers don't have converters, there's no problem, and these zinc compounds prevent long term rust from forming.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI

[N8N]

The nice thing about the Diesel oil is not only is it high detergent but it's CHEAP. as in cheaper than regular gasoline-rated dino squeezins. That should put a smile on any frugal Stude lover's face!

There's only two instances where I won't use Rotella - 1) in a newer car that's either forced-inducted or has a very expensive engine - there I use Mobil 1. 2) older aircooled VW motors I have been told use a metering orifice for the oil cooler that's "tuned" for straight 30 weight.

I dunno about the catalytic converter thing; last daily driver I had that wasn't "nice" enough to run Mobil 1 in was my old Scirocco; the catcon exited through the tailpipe about a year after I started driving it, but that was at >200K miles so I have no idea if the Rotella contributed to its demise or not. It still passed emissions with flying colors without it so I never bothered to replace it.

Now current theory on oil says that if you're using a quality oil you actually get the best flow and therefore the best protection with the *thinnest* oil that you can safely run (without losing flow to the valvetrain and/or pressure dropping below minimum spec) but in an older engine like a Stude the 15W40 doesn't bother me all that much.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[raprice]

As for me, I'm not convinced that I should use diesel oil in my '59 Lark VI. I use Castroll 20W-50 and am pleased with it.
Rog

[wagone]

My two cents may not be worth much, but here it is. I had never heard of these combination diesel and gasoline oils until recently. I've not used any but I'm tempted. What I do know is that my recently completely rebuilt (and bored, crank turned, etc.) 289 R2 engine still burned serious amounts of 30 weight oil. So this spring I shifted to Castrol 20W-50 and the oil consumption appears to be vastly improved. Maybe it is concidence and the rings have just sealed, but I feel pretty good about the 20W-50 Castrol and will probably continue to use it unless I switch to the diesel type. But I am reluctant to change away from the Castrol for obvious reasons. Until I put more miles on the Avanti this spring I can't be sure about the improved oil mileage, but right now it looks like 450 miles to a quart on the 30 weight up to perhaps 1200-1300 miles on the Castrol. Got my fingers crossed.
Wagone

[studeclunker]

I don't know about the diesel oils, but according to the maintenence book using 50wt oil is not a good idea.[B)] I'll have to look elsewhere for oil apparently, because at NAPA the diesel oils are about 10 to 15 percent more expensive than regular.[V] I hate the place, but... maybe W... W.... WWWWalmart will carry it less expensively.[xx(] It might be better to check a few other places first.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[curt]

Wagone, your oil consuption is interesting. I have been into Kaisers for years. Those engine could burn oil after sitting for the winter. A good run of 70 mph on the interestate would reseat the rings and the oil consuption would stop, no oil weight change just reseat the rings with a high speed run .

[Rekabeduts]

I used to use Castrol 20W-50 for a bout 2 years in my GT Hawk, then switched to Rotella 15W-40 a couple of months ago. One thing I noticed is the car runs a little rougher sometimes at idle or for a few minutes after a cold start (not that cold...Florida). I know the advantage to 20W-50 is that it leaves a coating that helps with start-ups, but it is harder on valves (I've heard only use it with solid lifters). Would it be a good idea (or bad) to mix half a quart of 20W-50 in with the Rotella, or maybe use a small amount of STP?

Hank

[Sonny]

quote:Originally posted by Rekabeduts

I used to use Castrol 20W-50 for a bout 2 years in my GT Hawk, then switched to Rotella 15W-40 a couple of months ago. One thing I noticed is the car runs a little rougher sometimes at idle or for a few minutes after a cold start (not that cold...Florida). I know the advantage to 20W-50 is that it leaves a coating that helps with start-ups, but it is harder on valves (I've heard only use it with solid lifters). Would it be a good idea (or bad) to mix half a quart of 20W-50 in with the Rotella, or maybe use a small amount of STP?

Hank

You've made an interesting observation Hank. I don't think that I've ever noticed a rough idle at cold start in anything using diesel oils. Mebbe it's the 15 weight property that's responsible. I am pretty sure that all modern oils leave a coating on everything, (depending of course, on how long they've been sitting). I would avoid mixing oils, but mebbe you could use a heavier weight diesel, or a little STP or some other good brand similar to STP, (even a synthetic additive), that would help the long sitting periods.

Sonny

http://RacingStudebakers.com

[studeclunker]

Studebaker did recomend STP. In fact, one of my cars had the original breathers on the valve covers![8D] The stickers (covered in grime) said "Note: Break - in oil contains STP." also "RECOMMEND ADD ONE (1) PINT OF STP at each oil change!" This was interspersed with the Studebaker S-ball, or S-in-a-circle, whatever. So there you have it STP seems to be recommended by the manufacturer. It's the corporate symbol that validates it to me. and the fact that I am the second owner of this car. I mentioned this little detail to the original owner and she said that the breathers had never been changed.

By the way, my mechanic got a really big kick out of those breathers. He went to a great deal of effort to clean them up and even repair/reglue the stickers. And yes, he added STP.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[curt]

Did Studebaker have an interest in sTP? Like own STP?????