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  • Auto trans. alignment tools?

    Where can I find/buy the necessary tools to align my automatic transmission to the bellhousing? The last time I replaced the flex plate, it only lasted 1000 miles! Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    Tools-wise, all you really need is a magnetic-based dial gage like machinists use. That and a mallet to whack the slightly snugged BH around until you get a tolerable runout reading on the dial gage.[:I]
    I've seen some folks make a base out of a piece of angle iron that they bolt to the crankshaft bolts as a means of mounting the dial gage. What's trickiest to me is drilling NEW holes for locator pins to keep the alignment. I use roll pins and drill the new holes freehand with a drill motor. I've done it a number of times but it's not one of my favorite things to do![V]

    Miscreant at large.
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      Thanks Mr. Biggs,
      I may give that a try. I like Studes, but this isnt one of their better engineering feats!
      sigpic
      In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by Milaca

        Where can I find/buy the necessary tools to align my automatic transmission to the bellhousing? The last time I replaced the flex plate, it only lasted 1000 miles! Thanks for any help.
        Just adding to Bob's post, here's a couple of pictures of what he's talking about and what others have used. Hope it works OK for ya! Oh, I use what is called a "dead blow" hammer to whack the bellhousing. It's a big, rubber, shot filled hammer, very readily available where ever you can buy tools.




        Sonny
        Sonny
        http://RacingStudebakers.com

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        • #5
          I am a puzzeled about this trans install. I am currently rebuilding my motor for my 1955 Speedster with the DG trans. Should I be concerned if I put the original motor back in with the original trans.

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          • #6
            "Should I be concerned if I put the original motor back in with the original trans."

            No - if you've got the original engine and bell housing, all should be fine. Think of it this way - EACH engine block was individually fitted with a bellhousing at the time of manufacture. Didn't matter if it was standard shift or Automatic. So a given engine and bellhousing should be kept together whenever possible.
            When you CHANGE the engine OR the bellhousing, realignment should be done.
            It's really kinda strange, why Studebaker didn't come up with a way that would've let B/Hs be interchangeable. Even I could devise a univeral alignment fixture to make them come out the same! The decision to do it the way they did is lost to the ages. We just have to deal with it as we have all along.
            Of course, once again, Studebaker never envisioned so many of their cars being on the road a half a century later either![}]

            Here's a couple photos of a homemade base holding a dial indicator for alignment. Note the "tool" is bolted to the chrankshaft flange and the tip of the dial gage running in the tranny hole of the bellhousing.



            Miscreant at large.
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the help. I might add that I replaced the engine with one from a 3 speed manual car. If I remember correctly (I did this 12 years ago), I had to ream out the pilot hole in the end of the crankshaft to make the torque converter go into place.
              sigpic
              In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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