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rear axle removal

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  • rear axle removal

    i have a 42 commander that i just bought and i have to restore just about everything. right now im trying to remove the rear axle but i cant quite seem to get the drum off. ive rented a wheel pulller that seems to fit and work but i can get it to turn only so far and then it wont budge. i dont know what to do now. can some one please help me and lead me in the right direction

  • #2
    Welcome to the Studebaker forums "newtostude17" Can I assume that you're 17 years old? If so, I'm Really happy that you're into Studebakers!

    As for that rear hub/drum assembly, it's not uncommon form the tapered axles. The puller that you need usually has three heavy "legs" that are helg on the drum assembly by the lug nuts. It has a long, fine thread "bolt" through the middle, and usually has a heavy set of "hammer ears" that fit onto the end of the long bolt.

    First and foremost, do you have a service manual for your car? If not, I strongly recommend that you get one ASAP. It has very important information in it that you'll need to service and/or rebuild your car. It also has the hub removal procedure in depth.

    Basically, you remove the cotter pin and axle nut, turn the axle nut over and screw it back onto the axle until, the end of the nut is even with the threads of the axle, attach the legs of the puller to the wheel studs, tighten the long bolt of the puller down until it contacts the end of the axle, the using a nice long breaker bar, keep turning the bolt on the puller to the right until the hub pops off.

    HOWEVER, it seem s that they never just pop right off. Make sure that the emergency brake is off, and I like to take one of those big rubber, "dead-blow" hammers and really whack the edges of the drum, (all the way around) before I even try to screw the bolt down on the puller. Then, as I screw the puller bolt in, I whack both sides of the drum with the dead-blow. If you screw the bolt down until it seems like the puller is gonna bust and it still won't come off, you might have to use heat, and that's another subject.

    Be advised that it usually seems like something is gonna break before the hub pops off, keep tightening the bolt down, BUT be very careful when you're standing right in front of the whole mess with the puller bolt tightened down.

    Please keep us updated on how it goes.

    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com
    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com

    Comment


    • #3
      17,

      We just had a discussion about brake drum removal. Look back on about page 2 of older topics here and read the discussion. I believe this will help you some. The topic is titled: "Brake Drums Again" and was intiated by a poster who goes my the name "Chrysleritis"[:I]

      Miscreant at large.
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey, it's me again, and I _still_ haven't got the &*#$%^! things off.
        Unbelievable. I'm no 90 pound weakling... I've done other brake drums...
        I'm a reasonable man... But I'm considering giving up and pulling
        the whole rear end off.

        I released the e-brake cable, (shoving the cable back into the drum a bit
        to free up the shoes) even disconnected the brake line at the
        wheel cylinder on the rear drums to try to release any sticking of the drum.
        The drum will turn relatively freely. Too freely, in fact. It's tough to get
        the center puller screw tightened down really #@@*#$&^ tight, though, without
        the wheel spinning... I set the e-brake, tighten the center screw with the biggest
        wrench I've got, release the e-brake, and then whack on the center screw with
        the biggest (3 lb) hammer I've got. No dice. Remove the puller to try to re-set it
        tighter. Lug nuts tightened all the way down, so the puller is flush to the drum.
        Whack more. Wife thinks I'm nuts. I think I'm nuts.

        I've tried first setting the center screw to contact the end of the axle with maybe
        1/4" left on the wheel lug nuts. Then tighten the lug nuts down with an impact
        wrench to get the puller really tight, then whack the center screw. Whew.
        Man.

        In the meantime, I've been cleaning the engine compartment up front. When frustrated,
        nothing improves your mood more than cleaning and polishing something. At least
        you've accomplished something.

        Newtostude17: get a really big puller. A good one.

        Comment


        • #5
          Chrylseritis
          I think you need a bigger hammer(10lb sledge) or better puller. I had a J.C Whitney one that wouldnt do a darn thing. Then I got one from Ted Harbit that pulled it right off.

          Comment


          • #6
            Are you using a puller that looks like this?
            [img][/img]http://community.webshots.com/photo/273962377/307752436dWsLDy
            If so, then make sure of the following items.
            All 3 arms are on ans tightened snug with lug nuts.
            Axle nut is installer backwards and flush with end the threaded axle end (or you may mushroom out the axle end itself and mork up the threads).
            You should not have to crank so hard that the vehicle moves (wheel rotates).
            The puller has two 'anvils' in it that you take your big hammer and whack the anvils tighter.
            When they are good and tight...whack it one more time.
            Then...(and be careful here..) take that big (7 to 10 pound) hammer and hit the end of the puller....hard.
            Repeat this if neccesary.
            Now, if it does not pop loose.. Leave it alone a while.
            I have had them pop loose several hours later.
            Hope the info helps.
            Jeff[8D]

            quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis

            Hey, it's me again, and I _still_ haven't got the &*#$%^! things off.
            Unbelievable. I'm no 90 pound weakling... I've done other brake drums...
            I'm a reasonable man... But I'm considering giving up and pulling
            the whole rear end off.

            I released the e-brake cable, (shoving the cable back into the drum a bit
            to free up the shoes) even disconnected the brake line at the
            wheel cylinder on the rear drums to try to release any sticking of the drum.
            The drum will turn relatively freely. Too freely, in fact. It's tough to get
            the center puller screw tightened down really #@@*#$&^ tight, though, without
            the wheel spinning... I set the e-brake, tighten the center screw with the biggest
            wrench I've got, release the e-brake, and then whack on the center screw with
            the biggest (3 lb) hammer I've got. No dice. Remove the puller to try to re-set it
            tighter. Lug nuts tightened all the way down, so the puller is flush to the drum.
            Whack more. Wife thinks I'm nuts. I think I'm nuts.

            I've tried first setting the center screw to contact the end of the axle with maybe
            1/4" left on the wheel lug nuts. Then tighten the lug nuts down with an impact
            wrench to get the puller really tight, then whack the center screw. Whew.
            Man.

            In the meantime, I've been cleaning the engine compartment up front. When frustrated,
            nothing improves your mood more than cleaning and polishing something. At least
            you've accomplished something.

            Newtostude17: get a really big puller. A good one.
            DEEPNHOCK@worldnet.att.net
            '61 Hawk
            '37 Coupe Express
            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm using a Studebaker puller discussed on: (sorry about the long URL)

              https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...eelpuller.html

              With the 1950-51 Champions, the lug nut pattern is four holes on a 4" diameter circle. The three-arm universal puller that DEEPNHOCK posted a link to -- I've got one of those, (use it on my '41 chrysler... five bolt pattern, about a 6 or 7" diameter) tried it without much success. It doesn't quite fit right, because the lug stud diameter on the '50 Champ is so small. The puller arms don't really seat on to the lug studs well -- you can't get the arms bolted all the way down to the drum face. So when you crank down on the center screw, you wind up pulling off-center and it makes a mess of it. The Stude puller I've borrowed fits right over the lug studs, and you put the nuts on and then tighten the center screw. What can I say? Ugh.



              Comment


              • #8
                ok guys i had the very same prob with my 50 but come to find out later that my shoes were all messed up from a leaky wheel clynder

                so what i may suggust cause it worked on a friends 50

                get you a good ol can o wd-40 and drown the insides of the drum anything u can reach with that silly lil red stick
                along with the axle - hub and drum assembly were it all meets under your axle nut

                wait about thrity mins to an hour smack it a couple of times and have at it with the puller

                the gurus will tell you not to try this cause it will damage the shoes but hey your probably gonna replace em anyways

                hey it just something i tryed as a last resort and it worked wonders so good luck

                Comment


                • #9
                  Chrysleritis - Studebaker last used the 4-lug pattern in 1950. 1951 saw the debut of the 4&1/2 on 5 pattern that was used on all Stude cars thereafter Stude 1/2ton trucks used a 5 on 5 pattern, BTW.

                  Miscreant at large.
                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis

                    Hey, it's me again, and I _still_ haven't got the &*#$%^! things off. <SNIP>
                    Have you tried to whack the sides of the drum with a big dead-blow hammer with pressure on the puller? I use a long bar in between the puller legs to hold the drum from turning. Do not be afraid to use heat. Take your time, heat JUST the hub, (the very center section), evenly, all the way around. You don't want it cherry red, but you Do want to see a dull red color. It WILL come off that way or you have something radically wrong.

                    Sonny
                    http://RacingStudebakers.com
                    Sonny
                    http://RacingStudebakers.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

                      Are you using a puller that looks like this?
                      <SNIPPER>
                      [:I]AND turning the castle nut over?[:I]

                      Sonny
                      http://RacingStudebakers.com
                      Sonny
                      http://RacingStudebakers.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by gotti210

                        ok guys i had the very same prob with my 50 but come to find out later that my shoes were all messed up from a leaky wheel clynder

                        so what i may suggust cause it worked on a friends 50

                        get you a good ol can o wd-40 and drown the insides of the drum anything u can reach with that silly lil red stick
                        along with the axle - hub and drum assembly were it all meets under your axle nut

                        wait about thrity mins to an hour smack it a couple of times and have at it with the puller

                        the gurus will tell you not to try this cause it will damage the shoes but hey your probably gonna replace em anyways

                        hey it just something i tryed as a last resort and it worked wonders so good luck
                        You bring up some good points. I do whatever it takes to get 'em off, including all the penetrating oil and heat I can get. I've found that emergency brakes left on, leaking wheel cylinders, worn drums, seized brake parts, adjusted incorrectly, sitting in water, etc, ALL or any combination thereof, have caused me great pain getting these things apart. Bottom line, I've also burned the drum off in a circle around the hub, saving it, found better drums and still was happy. I say, just do what ya gotti, 'er, gotta do to get 'em off! [)]

                        Sonny
                        http://RacingStudebakers.com
                        Sonny
                        http://RacingStudebakers.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I like that one sonny [8D]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by gotti210

                            I like that one sonny [8D]
                            Thanks, I figured that ya might. I just hope he gets that damned hub off! You're right, do what ever it takes, clean up/fix up later.

                            Sonny
                            http://RacingStudebakers.com
                            Sonny
                            http://RacingStudebakers.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              YEAH IN THE PAST YEAR IVE OWNED MY STUD IVE RUN ACROSS ALOT OF THAT BUT HEY I ALWAYS SEEM TO FALL INTO IT BUT COME OUT LIKE A ROSE

                              OH HEY SONNY YOU READY FOR SOME MORE PICS IVE GOTTEN MY DOOR PANELS AND REAR PANELS BACK FROM THE UPHOLSRY SHOP AND GOTTEN THAT S-10 REAREND IN AND MY WELD WHEELS ON
                              BEEN DRIVIN ALL OVER THE NEIBORHOOD WITH NO PLATES OR INSPECTION YET [8D]

                              ALSO DROP ME THE NAME OF YOUR WEB SITE I KEEP FORGETTING IT

                              (guess i should write it down huh)
                              you can reach me at XLONESTARENTX@AOL.COM

                              Comment

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