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Okay, Mr. Biggs, WWYD?

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  • Okay, Mr. Biggs, WWYD?

    Sir Biggs...I have a troublesome T-cab with a late '63 289 that does not like to restart once it's been warmed up. I have a new Pertronix coil in there, to go with the Pertronix ignitor under the cap. Timing is close to textbook by the light. I do see a squirt from the jets of the Stromberg WW (top-breathing) carb after warm up, when I shut it off. One time it restarted hot, after I moved the float up a hair. It was a T-bow rebuilt carb, recently. I put a spacer under the carb, so it's a good half inch from the manifold. I retorqued the intake manifold and am just at a loss. Hate to resort to dropping it off at the local repair shop, as I've always been able to unscrew the inscrutable with my Studes, but won't let pride get in the way if I run out of ideas. Thanks Biggie!

  • #2
    Tom,
    I know you've said you have the tidy new ignition stuff installed. What I'd like to know is have you actualy LOOKED at the spark when you're cranking it hot?[?]
    How about that resistor bypass circuit from the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid to the coil side of the ignition resistor? Is that circuit intact? That "I" terminal of the starter solenoid should have 12 (or so) volts on it when you're cranking the engine. Maybe you could check that with a test light to see that it is going hot when the starter solenoid is engaged.
    Do that and then try taking the coil to distributor high tension wire out of the cap and laying the loose end close to metal so you can see the spark - this, of course, after you've got the engine well warmed up. Tell us what you find.[}]

    Miscreant at large.
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      Thanks Bob! Will do a spark and voltage diagnostic tomorrow and report my findings.

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      • #4
        Okay Mr. Biggs, I looked at the spark while cranking hot, through a tube I bought at NAPA that takes the coil wire and plug wires in-line. Good sparks at both the plug and coil. I used the VOM while cranking, on the 'I' terminal of the solenoid and saw 12v while running and around 10v while cranking. (The wire goes from that terminal to the + side of the coil...no ignition resistor in the circuit.)
        What I did notice is a weak squirt of gas from both jets down the carb's throat. A spray of starting fluid fired it right back up and the engine stumbles when I punch the pedal. Gotta be the danged carb! Any ideas? Thanks...and HAPPY BIRTHDAY ON WEDNESDAY (16th) TO STUDEBOB!!

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        • #5
          Thaks for the wished Tom!

          I think you said the carb was a rebuilt, no? I don't know what to recommend. YOU could have a look - you could return it to the builder - or you could send it to me for inspection.[^]

          Miscreant at large.
          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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          • #6
            Tom I have the same problem with WW's. One was rebuilt by the same guy. I think its more of problem with the carb materials not intended to last more than 40 years.
            It worked fine for a few years but is now hard to start when hot.
            The one on my Champ, I just gave up and got a Carter AFB clone.
            Good news is, now there is quite a few guys doing the 2v to 4v manifold conversion. A few years down the road, a 2v manifold may be hard to find.

            And to

            Stude Bob happy birthday!!!!! !

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            • #7
              Tom,
              I think it is time to check the fuel pump. Check it for pressure and volume when the car is hot. It could be that the little valves are leaky when it is warm.
              Tim K.
              Tim K.
              \'64 R2 GT Hawk

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              • #8
                Thanks Charlie!

                Miscreant at large.
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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