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Extra ground wire

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  • Extra ground wire

    I've been told that I should add some extra ground wires, besides the main ground cable from the battery to the engine block. I found a 9' or so ground wire with little "c" ends, and plan to run one end from the same bolt on the engine block that the main ground cable runs to, and then run the other end of the ground wire to the chassis area supporting the engine (not on engine mounts)...there are already several ready-made bolt holes there. I know that I need to sand down the painted area immediately around the chassis bolt hole, and I'll use the electrical "grease", but my question is what kind of washers should I use, and in what "order". I think on the engine block bolt, I'll just add a regular washer and electrical grease when I attach one "c" end there....on the other I'm thinking that right under the hexbolt head on top, will go a regular washer, then the other end of ground wire "c", then another regular washer, then a star lock washer (external star)directly on the chassis, with electrical grease. On the underside of the chassis, I'll have another star lock washer, and a hex nut. I may repeat this arrangement in another area for extra grounds.

    I'm sure others have done this kind of thing. Any advice? Also, should I use a zinc-coated hex bolt, or stainless, or does it matter?



  • #2
    What you're proposing is overkill by a bit. Yes, it's good to have a ground wire from the engine to the frame. Your Stude likely would've had one on the right front motor mount bracket to the supporting bracket affixed to the frame. "Electrical grease" will be great. But what many don't know is that regular petroleum grease (Vaseline!) is an excellent corrosion inhibitor. So much so that I know of a product that's marketed to the recording industry as a corrosion-preventive for super-sensitive audio connections. This "secret formula" is really just petroleum jelly with a "secret ingredient" mixed in so they (the makers) can get a patent on it. The laughable part is that they're marketing this stuff and making money off it while the customers could do just as well by buying a jar of Vaseline! Good ol' American ingenuity.[:0]
    Yes, sand away any paint and rust, right around that bolt hole. Apply a liberal coat of electrical grease (or petroleum jelly) where you've cleaned the metal. Next, put a regular old bolt, with a flat washer on it, thru the hole in the bracket as you propose. Then apply a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut from the other side.
    Now slide the "C" end of that wire under the flat washer and tighten it all up. There's no need for multiple flat washers nor a star washer either.[:I]
    For the other end of that wire, Stude used one of the bolts that attaches the block to the upper motor mount bracket. There's really no need to go all the way to where you've got the negative battery cable.

    Miscreant at large.
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.