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Converting to 12 Volts

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  • #16
    The anti-creep solenoid really isn't necessary to the operation of the car. It's only reason for being was as a senes-of-security device back when automatic transmissions were still a bit of a novelty. If you simply disconnect it's wires, it'll drive just like a modern-day automatic tranny an no one will be the wiser unless you tell them![^]

    Miscreant at large.
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #17
      Thanks for the timely topic. I just bought a 53 Commander Hardtop that was last licenced in 1972. (the elusive "barn find"). I'm sure I will be leaning on the forum for advice. Let my first contribution be the web site for Fifth Avenue mentioned above: it is www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com and they seem very helpful!

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      • #18
        just an update, since this topic seems to be current...

        the "runtz" voltage droppers work well on the fuel gauge and temp gauge, but I ended up leaving it off the clock. Apparently the sudden high current of the winder coil is too much for the poor little transistor thingy, let the smoke all out of it. Other than that, check my web site for bulb interchanges and also I have determined that a Group 86 battery fits nicely in the stock battery box. Some of the bulbs on a Stude are weird, the front parking light/turn signal bulbs are some non-indexed base thing that I had to do some research to find a cross that you could buy at the parts store. (not a perfect one, I have 6cp parking lights now, but whaddaya gonna do.) The cig lighter heating element needs to be changed as well, believe it or not.

        I'm still looking for a 12V blower motor for under the fender, but other than that everything seems to be working fine.

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        62 Daytona hardtop
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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        • #19
          For the blower motors, I found that a ceramic volt-a-drop resistor works well. I used one on a 2R5 I converted, and had no problems.





























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          • #20
            resistors work, but when you use them you are drawing twice as much current (i.e. the same amount of current as the motor drew on 6v) at 12V whereas the 12V motor draws roughly half the current. I guess I'm just enough of an engineering weenie that the resistors offend me when the Right Stuff is so easy to find

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            62 Daytona hardtop
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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