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V8 Rod Interchange?

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  • V8 Rod Interchange?

    I've been looking for a good part number for the V8 piston rod interchange. The part number R54WW (Sealed Power) is not correct, and I have been unable to find a good number. I know Ted Harbit is using Carrillo rods, so there must be an interchange that I don't know about. Can anybody give me a good part number?

  • #2
    I've always heard that the stock rods are sufficient for any street-driven Stude, which is probably why you can't find any aftermarket ones. I'm sure there's lots of good used rods out there, but if you have to go aftermarket, I'm afraid I don't have any numbers for you.

    good luck,

    nate
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      I think Nate is right wacker, aftermarket rods for a Stude are harder to find than chicken teeth, (or MINE even! <LMAO&gt. Stude rods and cranks are forged steel right from the factory and are VERY tough. In fact, I'm hand polishing a set of Stude rods, and will have them rebuilt to the "nines" at the machine shop. Just polishing/relieving a rod strengthens it, add shot peening, balance, etc, and I think they'd be hard to beat. I'm keeping the cinch bolts. I plan on seeing if I can get that theoretical 7000 rpm out of a 259. I'll let ya know what I find out.

      Sonny
      http://RacingStudebakers.com
      Sonny
      http://RacingStudebakers.com

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      • #4
        OK, thanks. J

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by whacker

          OK, thanks. J
          I'm just thinkin' J, have you asked Ted? I'm positive he'd tell you how he did it. Here's all of his contact information, http://racingstudebakers.com/Ted%20Harbit.htm.

          Sonny
          http://RacingStudebakers.com
          Sonny
          http://RacingStudebakers.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Just make sure to have your machine shop check the side clearance on the rods. After mucho miles, the side gap opens up and that can cause low oil pressure problems, even though the rod bearings plastigauge out OK and the relief valve is clean.
            Hope the info helps.
            Jeff[8D]




            quote:Originally posted by Sonny

            I think Nate is right wacker, aftermarket rods for a Stude are harder to find than chicken teeth, (or MINE even! <LMAO&gt. Stude rods and cranks are forged steel right from the factory and are VERY tough. In fact, I'm hand polishing a set of Stude rods, and will have them rebuilt to the "nines" at the machine shop. Just polishing/relieving a rod strengthens it, add shot peening, balance, etc, and I think they'd be hard to beat. I'm keeping the cinch bolts. I plan on seeing if I can get that theoretical 7000 rpm out of a 259. I'll let ya know what I find out.

            Sonny
            http://RacingStudebakers.com
            DEEPNHOCK@worldnet.att.net
            '61 Hawk
            '37 Coupe Express
            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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