First day out for the '64....

[Bill Pressler]

...and the pedal (non-power drums) sure sinks a lot at first push, then with a few pumps seems to firm up almost to a hard pedal. Guess that means I most likely need the new M/C I bought from SI last year, before they went up?

Also, new lines, wheel cylinders and hoses all around, but when I stop and get out, the LR wheel cover feels hot (the others are not), and I smell a "hot" smell. Any ideas?

Thanks--I love the cars and the history, but I'm not a mechanic!

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1 (sold new by Cordell Motors, Moorhead, MN)
'64 Daytona Hardtop (sold new by Carl E. Filer Co., Greenville, PA)

[showbizkid]

Bill, sounds like classic master cylinder misbehavior to me. Yes, you should put that new one in!

For the hot wheel - Could be the shoes dragging. Do you notice any pull toward that side when coasting? When's the last time you checked your wheel bearings? A run-dry or bad race can certainly cause heat build-up that's transmitted to the wheel and wheel cover. I'd pull that wheel and examine the inner and outer bearings and races carefully. You might find a munged-up oil seal or a bearing set in the process of seizing.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

[Bill Pressler]

quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

Bill, sounds like classic master cylinder misbehavior to me. Yes, you should put that new one in!

For the hot wheel - Could be the shoes dragging. Do you notice any pull toward that side when coasting? When's the last time you checked your wheel bearings? A run-dry or bad race can certainly cause heat build-up that's transmitted to the wheel and wheel cover. I'd pull that wheel and examine the inner and outer bearings and races carefully. You might find a munged-up oil seal or a bearing set in the process of seizing.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

Thanks for the tips, Clark. I just bought the car last year and probably didn't log even close to 100 miles on it while I had a bunch of brake work done on it.

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1 (sold new by Cordell Motors, Moorhead, MN)
'64 Daytona Hardtop (sold new by Carl E. Filer Co., Greenville, PA)

[StudeRich]

The FIRST thing to do Bill, is pop that cover off of the Master Cyl. and see if the front, rear or any chamber is low. Be expecting the cover seal to be full of brake fluid and have proper towels ready to prevent damage to your paint, if using Dot 3 or 4 Fluid.

The condition sounds like it may be a possible leak somewhere, and may be low, that would explain the dragging L/R drum due to wet, swelling linings.

It is very important to know if the Mechanic used Dot 5 Silicone fluid, so you do not contaminate it with 3 or 4.

StudeRich

[JDP]

quote:Originally posted by Bill Pressler

...and the pedal (non-power drums) sure sinks a lot at first push, then with a few pumps seems to firm up almost to a hard pedal. Guess that means I most likely need the new M/C I bought from SI last year, before they went up?

Also, new lines, wheel cylinders and hoses all around, but when I stop and get out, the LR wheel cover feels hot (the others are not), and I smell a "hot" smell. Any ideas?

Thanks--I love the cars and the history, but I'm not a mechanic!

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1 (sold new by Cordell Motors, Moorhead, MN)
'64 Daytona Hardtop (sold new by Carl E. Filer Co., Greenville, PA)

Make sure the brake push rod is not too long and building up pressure.

JDP Maryland

[Bill Pressler]

Thanks, gentlemen.

Rich, I did look in the M/C before I started the car up. Both chambers were full. Haven't checked it after driving it.

JDP, good tip, I'll look into.

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1 (sold new by Cordell Motors, Moorhead, MN)
'64 Daytona Hardtop (sold new by Carl E. Filer Co., Greenville, PA)

[bams50]

"sinks a lot at first push, then with a few pumps seems to firm up almost to a hard pedal."

Sounds like the shoes need adjustment to me!

One the pedal is up and you hold it firmly, does it stay or slowly sink? If it stays, it's shoe adjustment. If it sinks, it's the MC.

Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
Parish, central NY 13131

GOD BLESS AMERICA
Ephesians 6:10-17

[Bill Pressler]

quote:Originally posted by bams50

"sinks a lot at first push, then with a few pumps seems to firm up almost to a hard pedal."

Sounds like the shoes need adjustment to me!

One the pedal is up and you hold it firmly, does it stay or slowly sink? If it stays, it's shoe adjustment. If it sinks, it's the MC.

Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
Parish, central NY 13131

GOD BLESS AMERICA
Ephesians 6:10-17

Thanks, Bob. I'll try it again when I next have it out; it seemed to me that I got no sinking feeling after it was 'hard'.

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1 (sold new by Cordell Motors, Moorhead, MN)
'64 Daytona Hardtop (sold new by Carl E. Filer Co., Greenville, PA)

[jackb]

if the shoes were not 'arced' before install, you might get what you experience now. Otherwise, there's some adjustment needed in your brake shoes...

[N8N]

If adjustment doesn't cure it and you see a good wear pattern on the shoes (worn from friction on most/all of the surface) you might just need another bleed, too...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel