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Baffling A Finned Valley Cover

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  • Baffling A Finned Valley Cover

    Howdy all, thought I might post this for others that may have run into the same problem that I did. I am finishing a engine compartment detailing job on my '59 truck, painting engine, transmission, undercoating firewall, and dressing up my 289. I bought finned aluminum valve covers, and finned valley cover for my truck. the valley cover I bought had no provision for a PCV valve, and as I wanted to go back to one, did some modification. Having an extra valley cover from a '63 Cruiser with the PCV tower that inserts into the cover, I decided to scavenge from it. (I believe others would work as well) The aluminum valley cover I bought as casted, has a flat spot around the rear bolt hole with no fins for the road draft tube, but no opening for it. I placed the valley cover in my drill press vice and opened up the rear bolt hole to 1 3/8" with a hole cutter using the bolt hole to center it. I then O-ringed the base for a positive seal. I then took the Cruisers cover and drilled out the spot welds on the baffle plate on the underside just large enough to cut the welds. Then transferred the plate to the rib on the underside of the aluminum cover. The spot weld holes gave me reference points for marking and drilling for #6 sheet metal screws and flat washers. I also used red threadlocker on the screws as an extra precaution. Earlier, or later covers may be able to be used as well for the baffle plate. and the aluminum cover can be coverted by drilling, and threading a spot next to the rear bolt hole for a small bushing, and insert nipple to connect the hose to. But the PCV tower from the '63 makes this an easy job, as it took about an hour. Hope this may help someone else, and save them some time. Thanks Tim

    <div align="left">Tim Stevens Big Sky Country, Montana "Mergatroid" '59 4E7-122 "Sliver" '59 Silver Hawk "Surfin Stude Safari" '57 Parkview Wagon "Blind Date" '41 Double Dater Coupe</div id="left">
    I own time machines.....

  • #2
    Note to self - Bookmark this tip!

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Valrico, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

    Tom - Bradenton, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

    Comment


    • #3
      Very good job Tim; that's the Studebaker way, to do things...the RIGHT way. Those poorly made valley covers cause a lot of grief don't they?

      Everyone has there own preferences, and I understand that. As for me I don't like the look of those things, (prefer the clean look) so the choice would be simple since they are poorly made anyway. The valve covers look cool I like their look, but also have their problems IE: they have no gasket retainers inside like the late 1960-1964 Stock ones do.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Howdy, yes they do have drawbacks for the cost. Being a fan of Stude Power and that vintage hotrod look, I guess I had to make compromises. The end result of a dressed up Stude 289 though, really gets my Stude motor running! []

        <div align="left">Tim Stevens Big Sky Country, Montana "Mergatroid" '59 4E7-122 "Sliver" '59 Silver Hawk "Surfin Stude Safari" '57 Parkview Wagon "Blind Date" '41 Double Dater Coupe</div id="left">
        I own time machines.....

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by studemaker

          Tim, saying the engine looks great would be an understatement. WOW!

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Valrico, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

          Comment


          • #6
            Great job Tim! I had planned on making one out of 3/8" aluminum plate and machining it. Great job and I like yer truck. Looks nice.

            Jake

            -Home of John Studebaker-
            http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
            http://varozza4x4.com

            Comment


            • #7
              I like it! I was going to do something similar on my car before I switched to an R-1 engine (no need for the baffle as there is no PCV connection) wish I had known what you were doing, I would have offered to trade covers (mine has a big fender washer covering what used to be the PCV hole)

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

              Comment


              • #8
                Nice job on the motor.[8D]

                63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
                64 Avanti R3w/NOS
                88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Guys, This project was supposed to be a small one, only two or three weeks long. [B)] Well.... here it is four months later and I am finally getting it all to come together. The truck was looking so bad under the hood that I was embarrased to open it at events. As things slowly progress, and are starting to look a little better, maybe I can open the hood for others to look now! Tim

                  <div align="left">Tim Stevens Big Sky Country, Montana "Mergatroid" '59 4E7-122 "Sliver" '59 Silver Hawk "Surfin Stude Safari" '57 Parkview Wagon "Blind Date" '41 Double Dater Coupe</div id="left">
                  I own time machines.....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Nice job Tim. I've already got pictures of your truck in my "ideas I plan to steal" file. I've now added a couple more.


                    Steve Hudson
                    The Dalles, Oregon
                    1937 Dictator Streetrod
                    1949 "GMOBaker" 1-T Dually
                    1953 Commander Convertible
                    1954 Champion Coupe

                    Steve Hudson
                    The Dalles, Oregon
                    1949 \"GMOBaker\" 1-T Dually (workhorse)
                    1953 Commander Convertible (show & go)
                    1953 "Studacudallac" (project)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Howdy Steve, Say, I was thinking the same about yours! Make sure you folks dont leave the keys in that sharp convertible at the next show were both at, temptation might just get the better of me![}] By the way, nice truck! Are those '40 headlights? Tim

                      <div align="left">Tim Stevens Big Sky Country, Montana "Mergatroid" '59 4E7-122 "Sliver" '59 Silver Hawk "Surfin Stude Safari" '57 Parkview Wagon "Blind Date" '41 Double Dater Coupe</div id="left">
                      I own time machines.....

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sharp eye! Somewhere along the line somebody decided '37 Ford "teardrop" headlights were just what the truck needed, and spent a lot of time and effort making the conversion. Besides looking a little strange, they were aimed about 5' in front of the truck-not too useful on the highway at night. I've since reverted to real Studebaker headlights-MUCH better.


                        Steve Hudson
                        The Dalles, Oregon
                        1937 Dictator Streetrod
                        1949 "GMOBaker" 1-T Dually
                        1953 Commander Convertible
                        1954 Champion Coupe

                        Steve Hudson
                        The Dalles, Oregon
                        1949 \"GMOBaker\" 1-T Dually (workhorse)
                        1953 Commander Convertible (show & go)
                        1953 "Studacudallac" (project)

                        Comment

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