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VALVE CLEARANCE

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  • VALVE CLEARANCE

    DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE VALVE CLEARANCE SHOULD BE FOR 57 SILVER HAWK V8?
    Kevin Phillips
    Jacksonville,AR

    53 commander

  • #2
    I set mine at .026 cold.

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      The Stude. Shop manual prefers the "HOT" and running method and the setting is .024", BUT...you need a cutaway valve cover to keep all the oil in, and although I am a glutton for punishment and do it, most people do not believe that it is any more accurate than the cold method which is as Mr. Biggs said, .026" for both intake and exhaust.

      To set valves Cold:
      You put a test light hot lead on the + batt. term. and connect the alligator clip end to the dist. term. that goes to the coil with the ign. switch on. Then be sure you turn the engine to #1 by putting the line very close to the letter "I" for IGN on the vibration dampener on the pointer on the timing gear cover, then check for BOTH rocker arms being loose (valves closed) if not, you only need one more revolution of the crankshaft and start over. Keep in mind that the Dist. turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE and set the valves starting with #1 (left front) and following the firing order marked on intake manifold (18436572) Cyl. numbering is Left (driver side)1,3,5,7 Right 2,4,6,8 You carefully "bump" the Solenoid start Term. with a remote starter switch or a jumper wire to the Batt. cable to light the test light for each cyl.

      quote:Originally posted by kpcoupe

      DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE VALVE CLEARANCE SHOULD BE FOR '57 SILVER HAWK V8?
      StudeRich
      Studebakers Northwest
      Ferndale, WA
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

        Comment


        • #5
          I've found adjusting the valves while the engine is running tends to tear up feeler gauges as well.

          Comment


          • #6
            Uh Guys, it's not necessary (or even desireable) to have the engine running to set the valves hot (which is the only way to get accurate clearance). Just get the engine up to temperature and shut off. It should stay hot long enough to get at least one bank adjusted.

            Dick, I think your procedure might be a good idea, but I'm trouble interpreting the instructions. Could you elaborate for us slow learners?


            Steve Hudson
            The Dalles, Oregon
            1937 Dictator Streetrod
            1949 "GMOBaker" 1-T Dually
            1953 Commander Convertible
            1954 Champion Coupe

            Steve Hudson
            The Dalles, Oregon
            1949 \"GMOBaker\" 1-T Dually (workhorse)
            1953 Commander Convertible (show & go)
            1953 "Studacudallac" (project)

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by S2DSteve

              Dick, I think your procedure might be a good idea, but I'm trouble interpreting the instructions. Could you elaborate for us slow learners?
              Yea...the table didn't translate too well.

              Adjust the #1 cylinder intake valve when the #6 intake valve is fully open.

              Adjust the #3 exhaust valve when the #2 exhaust valve is fully open.

              etc.

              If you rotate the engine clockwise (facing the front of the crank), the valves that come to a fully open position (and hence the valves to adjust) are right in sequence.




              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

              Comment


              • #8

                I'm adjusting the valve clearances on a newly-rebuilt 289 right now. I'm still new at this game, so please forgive me if I'm asking dumb questions. I have read the Shop Manual, and although I understand the concept, I'm a little unsure of the specifics.

                I'd really appreciate if StudeRich, or Dick, or anyone else who knows what they are doing can help out with some advice.

                On the cold adjustment method, if I understand this correctly I turn the engine over until the pointer is on the I on the ING on the vibration dampener, I check that the push rods for #1 cylinder are loose (intake and exhaust valves closed), then set the gap on both rockers at .026.

                First question, I have a different vibration dampener, with one mark on the dampener, and 0 to 24 (degrees I believe) marked on a scaled pointer fixed to the timing cover. Where should I put the mark - on 0 degrees?

                When I finish with #1, I think I have to find top dead centre on the next cylinder in the firing sequence, #8 cylinder.

                Second question, where exactly do I hook up my test light? StudeRich says one clip to the positive side of the battery, and the other to the distributor terminal that goes to the coil - you mean the wire that comes out of the middle of the distributor to the middle of the coil? (I probably should know this, but I don't)

                Assuming I got the light hooked up correctly, I have to turn over the engine, just enough to get to top dead centre of #8. Then the light comes on - right?

                How do you turn over the engine? I don't have enough room between the radiator to get my socket onto the crankshaft bolt. I sure don't want to have to remove the radiator (that I just installed). If I remove the spark plugs, will I be able to turn it over just by bare hands on the vibration dampener? (Again I should know this, but I don't)

                StudeRich seems to say he's using the starter - are you quickly engaging the starter motor? or are you turning it over by hand?

                If you use the starter motor, what if you go too far?

                For Dick's method, how do you know that the valve is fully open?

                Again, I'd really appreciate some help.



                John
                1953 Commander Coupe
                1954 Champion Sedan
                John
                1953 Commander Coupe
                1954 Champion Sedan
                1963 Lark

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by jngregory

                  For Dick's method, how do you know that the valve is fully open?
                  You'll have both valve covers off and you watch the valve in question while you turn the engine over by hand (it will be fairly easy to do with the spark plugs out). When the rocker has depressed the valve as far as it will go, you stop. If by chance you go a little too far and the valve starts coming up again, you crank backwards just a little.




                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks, Dick. I understand. I'll give it a try.


                    John
                    1953 Commander Coupe
                    1954 Champion Sedan
                    John
                    1953 Commander Coupe
                    1954 Champion Sedan
                    1963 Lark

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      StudeRich, I'm still learning about all this, and I sure appreciate the advice I get from you guys. I looked at the engine when it was a short block, before the heads went on. It is a partial flow block, late 50's, and I was told by the guy building the engine that it had a stock camshaft (not an R2 grind). There is tne Avanti dampener and timing cover on, and the timing gear is aluminum. The pistons are .40 overbored, Silvolite flat topped. The distributor is an electronic conversion (Dave Thibeault, I think). There is no windage tray, and the PCV comes out of the valley cover.

                      I've just installed the engine, and I wanted to check the valves before I tried to start it. No doubt I'll be back for more advice!



                      John
                      1953 Commander Coupe
                      1954 Champion Sedan
                      John
                      1953 Commander Coupe
                      1954 Champion Sedan
                      1963 Lark

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        John, I think if I had your engine I would need to know just how much of the original Avanti equipment is still on that engine for timing, tune-up maintenance and other reasons. Because your engine has a Avanti Timing Cover, did the F/O tell you if the R1/R2 Camshaft is still in there? Aluminum Cam Gear? Is the Prestolite dual point Distributor there? The 10.25 to 1 R1 flat top pistons? Does it have the short 3/8" reach spark plugs? PCV system pipe on the right side of Oil Pan? Windage trays in the the oil Pan? [:0][:0] (Ignition Timing on a Std. 289 which you led us to believe you had, is 4 degrees, R1 around 6-12, R2 24!!! it matters!)

                        Definetely Use Dick's method! I only told you how I do it. [^] I could never tell you which valve to use as a guide, or which valve to adjust without Dick's method printed out, which I have heard of, but never used.

                        quote:[i]Originally posted by jngregory
                        First question, I have a different vibration dampener, with one mark on the dampener, and 0 to 24 (degrees I believe) marked on a scaled pointer fixed to the timing cover. Where should I put the mark - on 0 degrees? (0 will work fine, good call!)
                        John
                        StudeRich
                        Studebakers Northwest
                        Ferndale, WA
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Steve is right, trying to adjust valves with the engine running is crazy. Just trying to hang onto the nuts with a wrench is like trying to hold a hog by its hind legs. I guess I'm not very sophisticated because regardless of the type of engine, I get it warmed up good and then just crank it over until both valves are closed and adjust them. It's pretty obvious when the valves open and I just turn the engine over a bit more.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I know it isn't sofistickated, but I've done my valves as I previously described (starting with #1 and working thru the firing order) for 34 years now. No failures - fairly quiet valves. Of course, if you like burning your fingers, trying to keep your wrench on moving parts and having to contend with flying oil, there's certainly better ways to do it. I'm just too old an' stubborn to embrace them. BTW, I DO run thru them a second time, just to double check my own work.

                            Miscreant adrift in
                            the BerStuda Triangle


                            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                            1960 Larkvertible V8
                            1958 Provincial wagon
                            1953 Commander coupe

                            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Having worked on many cxxxy engines Dicks method is a tried and true example, works every time.

                              David Baggett Mantachie,Ms.

                              Comment

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