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62 HAWK

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  • 62 HAWK

    I was told by stude intl that I could get my in dash gas gage repaired, but by what vendor and will they be at York this year? I have an under the dash one but it probably doesn't match the sender electricly, it actively sloshes with the gas.

  • #2
    Sounds like it may be a sending unit problem, go through the access hole in the trunk floor and after ordering a sender gasket or 2, remove the sender. Disconnect the wire and clean connections. Then re-connect the wire and connect a alligator clip jumper wire from the top plate of sender to a good ground on frame. Then with ign on, you can move the float to the top and check for full reading, Half and empty. Also check the float to see if it has no leaks and can float. It should be mounted so it swings to the right, not forward & back for less "sloshing", I believe the offset screw holes should properly aim it for you. Do not do this with more than 3/4 tank of fuel in tank, less is better.

    If you bought the dash gauge without matching it's OHMs rating to a non-Ford or GM rating it will be wrong. Stewart Warner independant makes (Stude.) should be the 240-33 OHM unit. If you have the fuel gauge that fits a 2 inch round hole and it does not mismatch the factory design ones too badly, you could install it in the dash after getting it working good.

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      My gas gauge just points to full. Do I have the same problem, or do I have a ground problem? Of course, it may be that electricity does not pass well thru ferrous oxide. Thanks

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      • #4
        While I am at it, my temp gauge just stays on cold. Won't move. Same problems?

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        • #5
          Chuck; the senders need good grounds and are grounded, however gauges are ISOLATED, not grounded, if you grounded them, that would be why you get a "full" readout always!

          quote:Originally posted by Chucks Stude

          My gas gauge just points to full. Do I have the same problem, or do I have a ground problem? Of course, it may be that electricity does not pass well thru ferrous oxide. Thanks
          StudeRich
          Studebakers Northwest
          Ferndale, WA
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #6
            Makes sense. Have not taken the dash apart, that will probably be sometime this summer, and will look at all of that. There are multiple electrical issues, and a complete rewiring(my harness from Studebaker West is finished), and a dash disassembly will fix it right up. The temp gauge sits on cold, and may have the same prob.
            The gas tank was redone by a gas tank company, here in Houston, who cut a hole in the side of the tank, cleaned it out, took the sheet metal screw out of the bottom, and coated it inside and out with something that is damn tough. Really great. He tested the sending unit and pronounced it fit, and said that it was getting juice. So your statement about the gauge really makes sense. Thank You.[^]

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            • #7
              My 63 Gt fuel gauge also shows past full irrespective of tank level...I put it on the work bench with a
              12 volt supply and sender unit, Th sender is OK since I measured ohms while
              moving the float lever through the 30-220 ohms range. Put on 12 volts and grounds. I moved the
              variable resistor tap slowly increasing the voltage and the guage very slowly came up
              to half tank and then snapped to past full. As I understand fuel gauges, and await any
              correction on this gauge innards, that pointer is moved by a bi-metalic element that
              is heated by the current flowing through it and varied by the sender resistor in series.
              This is why the guage takes a while to register. Why it suddenly snaps is a puzzle.
              My guess is the bi-metalic element is only "bi" for a while. When I get a replacement,
              I will disassemble and bring the findings to our forum if no one has opened one before.

              Dick Curtis
              The 1950 Champion Starlight
              Santa Barbara
              CA

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              • #8
                Please keep me, us, informed. I am building a notebook on gauges and repair therof... for this is an area of weakness in my building abilities[B)]. I guess we never stop learning[^]

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                • #9
                  Dick, keep in mind that the SW gages used in the Hawks are 'self-compensating' type gages. They have two bi metal strips. One takes input from the sending unit the other takes full voltage from the ignition switch. The idea is to compensate the gage's reading so it won't be different if the car's system is currently at 11 volts (idling at a stop light at night with the lights and fan and wipers on) or at 14 volts going down the highway at speed. Both bi metal strips move in response to their respective input and the gage hangs between them.

                  Tim K.
                  '64 R2 GT Hawk
                  Tim K.
                  \'64 R2 GT Hawk

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