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installing Silvertone dual exhaust

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  • installing Silvertone dual exhaust

    I am installing these on the 63 cruiser. Body is off. How far down does the tailpipe drop from the rear frame cross member? I don't want to take a chance on the "over axle" bend of hitting the body when I put it back on.
    They do look nice, just wish they were mandrel bent.
    64 Champ long bed V8
    55/53 Studebaker President S/R
    53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe

  • #2
    Measuring from the top of the straight level portion of the tailpipe before the bend upward near the end, right above the rear spring eye there is 2 inches clearance to the frame, and that leaves 3/8 in. to the spring eye. Be sure that you angle the "over the axle" dip-up's inboard about 30 degrees for improved axle clearance, level tips and correct fit. Keep in mind that I only have original Studebaker pipes to check, no re-production stuff, so your results may vary! [^]

    The ends of the tailpipe are supposed to be curved UP, then back down and cut level with the ground to send the exhaust out away from the bumper, down and be hidden above the bumper just like '62-'63 Dodges and all MoPar's were, and they really were practical and racy looking tucked above the bumper. There should be a tire casing rubber strap bolted to a bracket welded to the pipe right under the rearmost crossmember to secure the end. I've seen the 2 1/4 in. performance Silvertone exhausts on George Krem's "Brown Wrapper" '64 Challenger, and they do not look correct.

    Are you saying that the bends are KINKED (convoluted)? And not mandrel bent, that's not going to work for judging!


    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

      Measuring from the top of the straight level portion of the tailpipe before the bend upward near the end, right above the rear spring eye there is 2 inches clearance to the frame, and that leaves 3/8 in. to the spring eye. Be sure that you angle the "over the axle" dip-up's inboard about 30 degrees for improved axle clearance, level tips and correct fit. Keep in mind that I only have original Studebaker pipes to check, no re-production stuff, so your results may vary! [^]

      The ends of the tailpipe are supposed to be curved UP, then back down and cut level with the ground to send the exhaust out away from the bumper, down and be hidden above the bumper just like '62-'63 Dodges and all MoPar's were, and they really were practical and racy looking tucked above the bumper. There should be a tire casing rubber strap bolted to a bracket welded to the pipe right under the rearmost crossmember to secure the end. I've seen the 2 1/4 in. performance Silvertone exhausts on George Krem's "Brown Wrapper" '64 Challenger, and they do not look correct.

      Are you saying that the bends are KINKED (convoluted)? And not mandrel bent, that's not going to work for judging!


      StudeRich
      Studebakers Northwest
      Ferndale, WA
      Thanks for the reply --
      It is the typical muffler shop type bends. I do realize that mandrel bending presses are very expensive and the reason most don't have one. I could only find two shops in Fla that does mandrel bent exhaust when I had a set custom made for a customer's 69 Camaro. Expensive, but very nice with no restrictions. That too was an all stainless exhaust.
      64 Champ long bed V8
      55/53 Studebaker President S/R
      53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe

      Comment


      • #4
        Just typical muffler shop bending? The exhaust I HAVE on my Avanti is
        SOOOOOO poor that I have to make SURE that I dont get it again. My dad
        described the Nostalgic exhaust bends, and I think thats what I have.
        One of the over the axle pipes is kinked about 1/2 way through. Pretty
        sad work. Its also very tiny. I was thinking of getting the 2-1/2
        inch Silvertone, maybe that will make up for the crush and bend style
        and not the mandrel bend style I want. I wish that Silvertone would
        step up to the plate and make the change. If someone wants OEM they
        can get the Nostalgic, stainless steel is already not "correct".

        Tom

        '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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