Homemade bellhousing aligning tool.

[63t-cab]

I'm makeing a tool that mounts on back of crank,"useing a front crank hub and a peice of bar stock". would someone with experiance lineing up bell housings be kind enough to email me so I can email them pics of what I have,and get some feed back?(I only know how to send pics to emails)I really think this will work well?but feedback is good!

Joseph R. Zeiger

[289stude]

Post them here so we can all see and feedback.

John

62' Deluxe R2 4SPD.

63' R1 Wagonaire

57' Transtar 259 punched to 312 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction

58' 3E6D Stock

64' (Studebaker Built) Trailer Toter

[kurtruk]

Have you compared it to Chuck Collins' How-to pages on his website?

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/html/pages/dial.html

KURTRUK
(read it backwards)




Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

[63t-cab]

Fast forward,the fixture I made was put on a lathe and it is dead nuts on true.so I'm good to go now!"nice thing about it is it did'nt cost me anything but my time.

Joseph R. Zeiger

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

The bellhousing tool that mounts the dial indicator does not have to be "dead nuts" true. It can range anywhere from 80 to 110 degrees (exaggeration),... as long as it fits within the bellhousing opening.

Think about this,... once the dial indicator is mounted to the "T" tool, it measures the distance from the tool to the inside rim of the bellhousing opening. As the crank is turned it is always the same distance around the circle whether it is as 87,88,89 or 90 degrees square from the crank... it's still the same distance.

It's nice to get it close but not necessary to make one on a lathe. A quick weld with two piece of 1" angle iron at close to 90 degrees and two holes drilled to mount it to the crank is all you needed.

Count this one up as playing in the shop for a day [8D]

best of luck

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[63t-cab]

Thanks Allen, I was'nt sure as I heard both needs to be real close,and somewhat close.i actually made this by hand and eye,then had my freind chuck it in lathe just to stisfy my mind,and it is right on,just makes me happy for what ever it's worth? this for sure a one of a kind fixture.

Joseph R. Zeiger

[Turbopackman]

Forgive my ignorance here, as I've never had to dial in a bellhousing before, but how about a tool that fits into the pilot hole on the crank, that bolts to the crank, and has a large enough end that fits in the hole in the bellhousing therefore centering the bellhousing. You'd need different ones for auto and manual, but I think that would get it in one whack. Thoughts?

Eric Boyle
Packard Engineering, LTD.
Wichita, Ks.

<---Posts may contain anywhere from 30-100% sarcasm--->

[63t-cab]

Eric, that very thought ran through my mind also.but would of had to have metal parts machined"$$" but like you say,"one shot done deal" that would be the cat's meow!!!

Joseph R. Zeiger

[Turbopackman]

That's what I'm thinking. Bolt it on the crank, then bolt on the bellhousing. Tighten the bellhousing up, and you're done. I know a guy with a machine shop that could pop these out, but I'ma gonna have to get me a Stude so I can get one made. Even if we made only a few, and sold them to the local clubs as a "loaner" tool, it would still help people out.

Eric Boyle
Packard Engineering, LTD.
Wichita, Ks.

<---Posts may contain anywhere from 30-100% sarcasm--->

[gordr]

I made a tool that is comprised of a clamp that holds a used engine valve to the crank flange (credit Dick Datson for that), plus a block of metal that supports a sheet metal pointer. The pointer pivots on a screw, and is held in place by a coil spring. You simply install the tool, and set the tip of the pointer against the I.D. of the bellhousing hole. Turn the crankshaft (don't turn the tool on the valve!), and the pointer will wipe against the hole on the "near" side and skip on the "far" side. The wiping on the near side will move the pointer on its friction mounting, so that it will only touch on the "nearest" point. Shift the bellhousing on the block, and try again. And again, if necessary. Eventually, you will reach a point where the pointer brushes lightly against the hole all the way around. That should put you within spec, at a cost of mere pennies for the "tool". When you are "out" you will know it, but not how far.

I've used this rig several times, and never had a problem attributable to bellhousing concentricity.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Turbopackman]

Well, after a little research, it looks like my idea's already been done:



Found out about it here: http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

Figures, every great idea I have has been done by someone else!

Eric Boyle
Packard Engineering, LTD.
Wichita, Ks.

<---Posts may contain anywhere from 30-100% sarcasm--->

[StudeRich]

That looks really spiffy, but I don't think it would help on a Stude. Engine! [:0]

StudeRich