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Do I need special paint?

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  • Do I need special paint?

    I know this is going to sound like a dumb question, but I am getting my rims sand blasted and am going to repaint them. I will prime them before paint, but do I need any "special" paint to do it? I plan on just spray painting them. Thanks.

    Chris Dresbach

    1940 Champion two door.
    Parts of the 1952 Model N
    1960s Prototype cart
    Chris Dresbach

  • #2
    I would suggest painting them with the same paint as you use on the rest of the car. Nothing special.

    '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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    • #3
      I think I will, thatnks Bob.
      That leads me to my next question. The build sheet says it was 1541 black. What does that mean, and can it still be mixed[?]

      Chris Dresbach

      1940 Champion two door.
      Parts of the 1952 Model N
      1960s Prototype cart
      Chris Dresbach

      Comment


      • #4
        Don't know the accurate answer to that, but others do. If nothing else, take that number to an auto paint supplier and see if they have a cross reference to a national and current paint.

        '50 Champion, 1 family owner

        Comment


        • #5
          I believe, before the advent of metallics and pearls, black was simply black. The pigment was carbon.
          You'll notice on the old paint chip sheets there was seldom a chip sample for black. That code 1541 may have indicated black lacquer.
          I don't think any paint jobber would have any trouble mixing unadulterated black in whatever base you want.
          Brad Johnson,
          SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
          '56 Sky Hawk in process

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by rockne10

            I believe, before the advent of metallics and pearls, black was simply black. The pigment was carbon.
            You'll notice on the old paint chip sheets there was seldom a chip sample for black. That code 1541 may have indicated black lacquer.
            I don't think any paint jobber would have any trouble mixing unadulterated black in whatever base you want.
            Spray paint gloss black[?]

            Chris Dresbach

            1940 Champion two door.
            Parts of the 1952 Model N
            1960s Prototype cart
            Chris Dresbach

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree with Bob, take it to your local auto paint supplier to see if they have the formula for it. Another possible option is to take a piece of your car that has good paint on it to a paint supplier. Some of the suppliers can scan it and match it to the closest thing they have. This will not be a perfect match, but it will be close.

              I would suggest painting the wheels at the same time you paint the car, if you want a perfect match between the wheels and the car. A lot of things can affect the shade of paint, so the only way to be sure you have a match is to have the same guy paint everything at the same time out of the same batch of mixed paint.

              If your wheels are in bad shape and you need to do something now to preserve them, just spray some cheap rattle can krylon or duplicolor on them for now. Then sand that stuff back off and put good paint on them when you paint the rest of the car.
              Wayne
              "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

              sigpic​

              Comment


              • #8
                Here's a 1940 chip sheet.

                Huge supplier of Automotive Paint, Auto Body Supplies, Airbrush Equipment, Car Detailing Supplies, Pinstripe Paint, Spray Guns & Safety Respirators at Wholesale Prices. Our items are factory direct and we carry a wide variety of Top Quality Brands.
                Brad Johnson,
                SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                '56 Sky Hawk in process

                Comment


                • #9
                  After the wheels are sand slasted I would use a self etching primer on the bare metal. Duplicolor makes this in a rattle can, kinda green looking and the paint will stick better. A Urethane clearcoat will toughen up the black topcoat.

                  59 Lark Regal 2Dr Hardtop
                  51 Champion 2Dr Sedan
                  27 Ford Roadster
                  Harleys, Mustangs and other Goodies
                  59 Lark Regal 2Dr Hardtop
                  51 Champion 2Dr Sedan
                  27 Ford Roadster
                  Harleys, Mustangs and other Goodies

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep, use Etch primer, then a light coat of primer AFTER scuffing with a scotch brite pad. then a few light coats of paint. Let them dry at least 48 hours (unless using an Automotive paint with a hardener.
                    Tell the "gorillas" at the tire store to treat them like $1000 mags and NOT to scratch them!

                    Jim
                    "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                    We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                    Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                    As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                    their Memorials!

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                    • #11
                      Good news for you is that straight black is straight black. It's the only color with theoretically no variant to it's shade. For example, there are 1000 different shades of white, silver, gold, or any really any other color for that matter. But with black, unless it's pearlized or metallic in any way, it's just black. Black rattle can will work fine. I've had good results painting wheels using Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black from Home Depot. Maybe give it a shot.

                      T.J. Fletcher
                      North Atlanta, Ga
                      1958 Champion 2-door sedan
                      T.J. Fletcher
                      North Atlanta, Ga
                      1958 Champion 2-door sedan

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I will be getting them back friday. Ill prime them and shoot them with spray paint. Just gloss black. I was almost playing around with the idea of putting a white stripe around the outer rim. Not sure yet, have to see how they look in black first.[][8D][8]

                        Chris Dresbach. South Bend, In.

                        1940 Champion two door.
                        Parts of the 1952 Model N prototype.
                        1963 Prototype moon cart built by Studebaker.
                        Chris Dresbach

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Regarding the white stripe, there was a method I used on the '55 to get my red stripes over the fenders. I wanted some fine lines in this instance, so it was somewhat effective. Prior to painting them black, I shot a red stripe down the fenders. After that was done I masked off the artwork I wanted, which involved cutting shapes out of the masking tape, and then painted the rest of the car. It worked to a certain degree, mainly because I was putting a intricate pattern on the fender, and the paint leached a little under the tape. However since this may be a few simple stripes, this might a very effective method. Just remember the white paint goes on before the black paint does. You can also paint the rims black, put down a stripe, mask off what you want for the stripe, and then repaint the area black again and remove the masking tape thereafter.

                          [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                          [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                          [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
                          [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

                          1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                          1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                          1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                          1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you take John's suggestion of taping your stripe first, don't use masking tape. Use fine line tape; comes in several narrow widths, thinner and more flexible than masking tape; very little chance of paint seeping under the edge.
                            Brad Johnson,
                            SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                            '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                            '56 Sky Hawk in process

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes, when I needed real fine lines I actually used pinstriping tape from Autozone. It actually supposed to be the decorative piece(it's supposed to be the pinstripe) but once laid flat the thick tape also provided a seal when doing real fine lines.

                              [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                              [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                              [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
                              [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

                              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                              Comment

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