Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cleaning 1950 Champion oil pan

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cleaning 1950 Champion oil pan

    The last time I changed the oil in my 1950 Champion engine, I discovered that there's a LOT of really, thick sludge in the oil pan (this car was little used for thirty years). I think that I should drop the oil pan and clean it out. Can I do that with the engine in the car, or will I have trouble lining up the gaskets and the front main seal when I put it back on? Furthermore, will it really be less hassle to replace it in the car than pulling the engine in the long run? If I pull the engine I could replace the leaky gasket on the oil pump.
    I have both the service manual and the time and step manual. Both have procedures describing, unfortunately a little vaguely, how to do both procedures. I'm not a real crack mechanic, but I think that I have all the tools, and I have a garage with a pit that I can work in. Any ideas, tips, advice or irrelevant observations would be appreciated.

    1950 Champion
    W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
    Holdrege NE
    John
    1950 Champion
    W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
    Holdrege NE

  • #2
    I have dropped the oil pan while the engine is in my 1950 starlight. No problem. Just follow your manual. If i remember, you have to loosen the lower bolts off of the timing cover. Your shop manual will give you the correct info on removing oil pan. And yes, I have found the sludge. Also, they say not to cut the cork gasket that runs on the front and back. in time they shrink. Call Studebaker West. They can add to this topic.

    Comment


    • #3
      Pour a quart of ATF in the engine before your next oil change. Run the engine up to running temp. Shut it down and change the oil. Pulling the pan will only get whats in the pan. The ATF will flush the lifter area and all the oil passages. Been doing this with the new to me Studes for years. I usually drive from the parts house with the ATF in the engine back to the house and change the oil. Its about 4 miles one way. You will be amazed how clean your oil will be after a couple flushes like this.

      Gordon

      Comment


      • #4
        Right on with the ATF- that works very well. Another old trick if you really don't want to pill the pan: Pour in about a gallon of kerosene and let it sit for a week or even more; then drain. Fill with oil and a quart of ATF and run it about 5 miles, then drain and refill again. DO NOT START THE ENGINE WITH KERO IN THE BASE THOUGH.

        Of course the best way is to pull the pan; but if one is really not willing or able to do that this would be a decent alternative.

        Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
        Parish, central NY 13131

        GOD BLESS AMERICA





        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks, guys. I suppose I have nothing to lose trying the ATF flush first. Does it matter what type of ATF I use?

          1950 Champion
          W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
          Holdrege NE
          John
          1950 Champion
          W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
          Holdrege NE

          Comment


          • #6
            I don't think it matters. I always used F type. That's because its the same fluid for my trans.

            Gordon

            Comment


            • #7
              Sometimes Older engines have a dense gray pasty sludge. I have wondered if that was some lead type compound from the leaded fuel. Now that I'm so much smarter than I was at 16 I would probably wear gloves while scraping.

              Comment

              Working...
              X