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Studebaker Power Steering Pump Rebuild - how to

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  • Ira
    replied
    i have the pump, ram and control valve along with the rebuild kits for an Eaton Pwr Steering unit for 60 Hawk. I need someone who can rebuild all three for me if anyone can recommend. thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • studebaker-R2-4-me
    replied
    Originally posted by sbca96 View Post
    Glad this thread was useful.

    Unfortunately, I dont have any info on the part, but I do know that they are the same basic
    pieces that Ford used. You might try that route, NPD sells a lot of early Mustang parts.

    Tom
    National Parts Depot is the way to go, they are not even worth rebuilding yourself or waiting to find the little clip. The last one I purchased was about a hundred dollars with a guarantee. I lost a hose, on a very busy highway, did not want to stop, could not stop,.... said screw it and drove the last 10 minutes home. Threw an spare one on the next day and took the seized but re-buildable one to NPD a year later.

    Allen

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  • sbca96
    replied
    Glad this thread was useful.

    Unfortunately, I dont have any info on the part, but I do know that they are the same basic
    pieces that Ford used. You might try that route, NPD sells a lot of early Mustang parts.

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeNorm
    replied
    Great thread. I rebuilt my ram, valve and pump (sort of) over 20 years back when all I had was the '59-'64 shop manual to keep me on the straight and narrow. The parts sat on my shelf until last spring when I installed the ram and valve on my newly acquired '63 Lark.

    I do have a question about trying to find a replacement shaft snap ring. That skinny little one that holds the gear in place after you slip it on the shaft and slide it into the housing... Is there a part number for this piece or is it part of a kit? Mine took a flyer into the nether reaches 20 years ago and I haven't been able to find a replacement. I asked this question once before but never got an answer.

    This seems like the place to now ask the question. Where can I find a replacement?

    Thanks and keep these very useful type of threads coming!

    Leave a comment:


  • fpstude
    replied
    Tom, please accept my thanks and appreciation for this TECH thread. I just followed it step by step to replace the power steering pump seal on our GT Hawk. It is very accurate and detailed. The project is a success.

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  • sbca96
    replied


    Here is where they go.



    I used some fine sandpaper, and with some lube spread on the opposite
    housing half, cleaned up the surface to insure a good seal.



    Put some lube on the o-rings.



    Align the housing dowel pins and tap the assembly together.




    Gather up your bolts, brackets and remove the pulley by holding the
    pulley and loosening the pulley retaining bolt.



    Assemble the brackets and bolts to the housing and snug the bolts down
    following a "star" pattern.



    I grabbed the thin bracket in my vice and torqued the bolts to the required 20-25 foot pounds.



    And put the pulley back on.



    Remove the two old reservoir seals.



    Gather these parts up.



    Put the new seals in, and apply lube.



    Put the bolt in with the reinforcement plate as shown.





    Back in the vice and torque to 30-35 foot pounds.



    Install the rod with threads at either end, torque 40-60 inch pounds.



    Gather these seals and the lid.



    Put the large seal into the lid, and install, put the small seal with
    the bump into first.



    Then add the large flat skinny one.



    Big washer and wingnut and your done!



    Here is the finished pump. I wish I didnt have the ram, control valve
    and all the hoses left to do still.



    OK ... so I used Bob Johnston's website to restore my thread as best I can. Good thing
    that Bob does this for the People of Studebaker. Took a while for me to reconstruct it.

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...pspumpreb.html

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    Well .. its good info, thanks for the input, I just wish it was back
    when I was searching. You can see how much effort I put into it, but
    came up short. Car Quest wins one this time.

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • dynolou2
    replied
    I hadn,t bought my repair kit yet, I posted this info in July, under P.S. pump seal. I thought that I would bring the part # back up as you had updated and brought your post forward. Just in case someone just needed a shaft seal only. Lou Cote [8D]

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by dynolou2

    For those of you that have a Carquest nearby their seal # 6835S duplicates the origonal double lip seal on the Eaton ps pump.
    Where were you a year ago?[}][]

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • dynolou2
    replied
    For those of you that have a Carquest nearby their seal # 6835S duplicates the origonal double lip seal on the Eaton ps pump. My cost with work discount was $8.00. It is much better than the one found in the SI kit. Lou Cote [8D] enough with the snow already.

    Leave a comment:


  • bams50
    replied
    I sound like a broken record, but again I offer my thanks! It's hard enough to document in perfect detail like you do and still get the job done, but then to have to go back and replace all the picture links because your old host went bust is really above and beyond!

    Thanks for all you do to further the cause[^]

    And, thanks to Dan, Jeff, and the others who contributed expertise to this great effort. Studebaqker folks are the best![8D]

    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"



    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    Dan,

    Its been a rough year to say the least. I have driven the Avanti a
    total of 2 times the whole year. Once to move it into storage at a
    friend house back in Feb to work on the IROC, and then again a few
    months ago to bring it back home. I have been focusing all my work
    on her replacement car (1999 Camaro SS) we bought after we were
    forced into the center divider by an SUV in March (they fled). She is
    still very upset from losing her car, among other things end of 2007.

    George,

    I used to buy almost all my parts from a CarQuest in Goleta, Ca. But
    I moved and with the commute I am stuck with the ones open later.

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • StudebakerGeorge
    replied
    What a nice thread. Great to see stuff like this! I have a couple things to add. I use a kit from Carquest for the early Ford like mentioned and the ones I have been getting have a high quality seal in them. I take a small "bite" out of the grommet for the top so it can vent. I also install an inline filter also available from Carquest.. I forget the part number but I could get it and most decent parts stores should be able to also supply one. It looks like a large fuel filter but is much heavier duty and goes in the return line. End of contamination troubles! On the seal replacement, I made a small sleeve that slides over the shaft so the seal can pass over the sharp edge. The seal can then be installed with the pump assembled, slide the seal over the sleeeve, knock it in, pull off the sleeve. If you have ever done valve stem seals on an older VW or MB the "kit" comes with a plastic sleeve that slides over the top of the valve and protects the seal from the sharp edges formed by the keepers, that's where I got the idea. I have a giant box with saved plastic and metal cap plugs and such and found one that fit perfect after cutting the "top" off. BTW, I'm not promoting Carquest, it's just that I have the very good fortune of having a friend work at one here who is a real old time parts guy and also another one of their stores that caters to fleet service and also has a great bunch of "real" parts guys who will always take time to help with odd stuff.

    StudebakerGeorge

    Leave a comment:


  • ROADRACELARK
    replied
    Great job on the picture up-dates, Tom!! Very nice addition to that project. Happy hollidays to you and yours, and by the way, how's your wife doing? I hope things are improving.

    Dan Miller
    Atlanta, GA

    [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
    Road Racers turn left AND right.

    Leave a comment:


  • ROADRACELARK
    replied
    Tom,
    No, I never have, only because you still have to remove the other end mounting as well as the hoses....I've never seen it done with air pressure unless you have an super compressor that can deliver 175 psi or better Plus, you'll have to plug one of the two ports, can't remember which, and be prepared for a big mess if/when it turns loose. Look at it this way...You're gona' put the pump back on anyway, what's three bolts, two hoses and a quart of fluid? Let the pump do the work for you. Just my 2 cents worth.

    Dan Miller
    Atlanta, GA

    [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
    Road Racers turn left AND right.

    Leave a comment:

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