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**Mike** · 02-12-2007, 04:24 AM

I don't remember any special difficulty getting it apart. Mine looked awful inside. The drive pin, that keys the rotor to the shaft was breaking up; and the rollers had dug into the end plate. I figured I would clean it up and use it until I found another. Small Fords used the same. I made a new drive pin, and sanded the end plate flat. That was about six years ago. It's still working great.
I made the mistake of not doing the whole system at the same time; and had metal particles in the ram, that later went everywhere. I trapped them, over time, with a magnet in the reservoir and a few fluid changes. You can plug the fitting on the reservoir, and run the return hose into a bottle, to flush the system. Just keep filling the reservoir.
Be sure to use a grommet and washer, in the lid, that allow the reservoir to vent. Most kits contain parts for Fords that vent from the fill stack. They do a nice job of sealing the Stude reservoir, until it gets hot and forces fluid out.
Mike M.

**DEEPNHOCK** · 02-12-2007, 05:17 AM

I grabbed a Ford top off of a boneyard car that had the fill cap and dipstick on it..
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Mike

I don't remember any special difficulty getting it apart. Mine looked awful inside. The drive pin, that keys the rotor to the shaft was breaking up; and the rollers had dug into the end plate. I figured I would clean it up and use it until I found another. Small Fords used the same. I made a new drive pin, and sanded the end plate flat. That was about six years ago. It's still working great.
I made the mistake of not doing the whole system at the same time; and had metal particles in the ram, that later went everywhere. I trapped them, over time, with a magnet in the reservoir and a few fluid changes. You can plug the fitting on the reservoir, and run the return hose into a bottle, to flush the system. Just keep filling the reservoir.
Be sure to use a grommet and washer, in the lid, that allow the reservoir to vent. Most kits contain parts for Fords that vent from the fill stack. They do a nice job of sealing the Stude reservoir, until it gets hot and forces fluid out.
Mike M.

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**sbca96** · 03-12-2007, 12:47 AM

Yah .. I had the WHOLE pump from a Ford, with the cap, dipstick & all,
that went to the scrapyard with the Lark parts and engines.

quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

[b]I grabbed a Ford top off of a boneyard car that had the fill cap and dipstick on it..Jeff

OK, this weekend I was finally able to continue taking the pump apart.
According to the instructions, you remove the lid, and put two nuts on
the shaft, tighten them against each other and unscrew the shaft :

After the shaft is removed, there is a bolt in the bottom that has a
tapped hole for the shaft. That is removed with a 1 inch socket. I
used a rubber mallet on the wrench to "negotiate" it loose :

Here is the bolt removed :

The reservoir just lifts right off with the bolt out :

Tapped on the sides with a small ball peen hammer, took a couple solid
hits but the case started to separate. Once I got a gap, I put a wide
blade screwdriver between the halfs and carefully twisted the handle.
I made sure to pry near the dowel pins, and went back & forth between
them to separate the case evenly :

Tip the case onto the shaft side to keep the guts from falling out :

Lift the vane side off the housing side :

Thats as far as I got today. Doesnt seem like much I know.

Tom

**sbca96** · 03-13-2007, 09:25 PM

Back to mess with it a little more tonight, pulled the shaft out of
the housing :

Wiped of the yucky fluid :

The gear part slides on the shaft and is held in place with a snap
clip of some sort, and a dowel pin (any guesses as to material? Mine
has a ridge on it - I think its supposed to be round) :

Here is the main seal in the housing, its a nice double seal with a
good amount of surface area :

Grabbed my handy dandy seal puller I got from Harbor Freight (if you
dont have one of these, you are missing out - makes life easier).

I wasnt too impressed with the seal that came with the Stude Int kit,
it was lighter duty, and less sealing surface area :

outside :

inside :

I wonder if the Ford replacement part is better?? I think I will see
if Napa can cross reference this number.

Tom

**studebaker-R2-4-me** · 03-14-2007, 04:33 AM

Great Post! This is the information and style of post we need on the Technical section of this forum. I hope we see it going back together too! Thanks for time you took to post all the pictures! Allen

1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone

**N8N** · 03-14-2007, 05:36 AM

Tom,

the C/R on that seal makes me think that it may be a Chicago Rawhide part, maybe you can just order the exact same part from your FLAPS?

Let me know if that works, I'll add it to my spreadsheet.

thanks,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

**60Lark** · 03-14-2007, 06:55 AM

When I rebuilt the PS Pump on my 60 Lark I bought the kit from SI, but thought the seal looked inferior, so I went to my FLAPS and asked for a shaft seal to fit an Eaton PS Pump for a 60 Ford and it was an exact match to the original.

Studebaker Fever
60 Lark
51 Champion
Phil
Arnold, Missouri

**sbca96** · 03-14-2007, 10:11 AM

I will bring the info to Napa and see what they come up with, I will
post my findings. I do not like how Stude International isnt selling
the BEST products available. I would rather had spent a couple more
bucks & got the BEST seal, then save a few & get something inferior. I
dont want to have to deal with this again for another 40 years or 103k
miles - which ever comes first![

]

Thanks for the compliment 'R2-4-me', did you catch my fuel pump tech
article a little while back? I need to check with the Mod, and see if
we can have a sub-forum added to the main forum for "keepers". That
brake drum cross reference thread should be bronzed! But its lost on
page 14 (or something).

Tom

**r1lark** · 03-14-2007, 12:30 PM

quote:Originally posted by sbca96

I will bring the info to Napa and see what they come up with, I will
post my findings. I do not like how Stude International isnt selling
the BEST products available. I would rather had spent a couple more
bucks & got the BEST seal, then save a few & get something inferior. I
dont want to have to deal with this again for another 40 years or 103k
miles - which ever comes first![

]

Tom

Tom,

What is the part number on the original seal? I can't quite make it out in the pic. Thanks!!

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

**N8N** · 03-14-2007, 03:39 PM

All right, I punched a '61 Hawk up in the NAPA web site...

the *listing* for a p/s pump shaft seal is:

Item#: NOS7440
I.D.:0.7500"
O.D.:1.2540"
Width:0.2500"

If I try to cross reference "ER92999" I get:

Item#: NOS7465
I.D.:0.7500"
O.D.:1.2540"
Width:0.3130"

just FWIW... I couldn't find that part number on Chicago Rawhide's web site however, so I don't know if that's a discontinued seal, or if it was made by someone else, or what... Anyway the one you got from SI *might* be the one actually listed for the app, and the one that's in there is for some reason wider. I couldn't say what the specs of the stock one were.

nate

(yes, I do have some experience tracking down interchanges on the Web...)

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

**r1lark** · 03-14-2007, 05:07 PM

quote:Originally posted by N8N

All right, I punched a '61 Hawk up in the NAPA web site...

the *listing* for a p/s pump shaft seal is:

Item#: NOS7440
I.D.:0.7500"
O.D.:1.2540"
Width:0.2500"

If I try to cross reference "ER92999" I get:

Item#: NOS7465
I.D.:0.7500"
O.D.:1.2540"
Width:0.3130"

just FWIW... I couldn't find that part number on Chicago Rawhide's web site however, so I don't know if that's a discontinued seal, or if it was made by someone else, or what... Anyway the one you got from SI *might* be the one actually listed for the app, and the one that's in there is for some reason wider. I couldn't say what the specs of the stock one were.

nate

(yes, I do have some experience tracking down interchanges on the Web...)

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

My old CR Bearing/Seal book calls for:
'63-'66: CR 7465
'60-'62: CR 7440
'58-'59: CR 7475

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

**DEEPNHOCK** · 03-14-2007, 05:45 PM

Just to give you guys a heads up...
Chicago Rawhide, as a company name, is no more...
After over 130 years of being a great American manufacturer, the current owners (SKF) put the SKF name above all else and now it is called SKF Sealing Division.. (SKF is a Swedish company and they have owned C/R for about 18 years now)....
But...
The SKF sealing divisions part numbering system is based on shaft size.
So, that part number 7440 means that seal will fit a .744" shaft....
and that 7465 seal will fit a .746" shaft. You can still have variants of the number and it cam mean a few things like single lip, double lip, nitrile rubber, Viton, etc. So you really can't just grab the numbers close to that one. SKF seals are partnered up with NAPA, so that makes it a bit easier to work with.
Hope the info helps...
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by r1lark

quote:Originally posted by N8N

All right, I punched a '61 Hawk up in the NAPA web site...

the *listing* for a p/s pump shaft seal is:

Item#: NOS7440
I.D.:0.7500"
O.D.:1.2540"
Width:0.2500"

If I try to cross reference "ER92999" I get:

Item#: NOS7465
I.D.:0.7500"
O.D.:1.2540"
Width:0.3130"

just FWIW... I couldn't find that part number on Chicago Rawhide's web site however, so I don't know if that's a discontinued seal, or if it was made by someone else, or what... Anyway the one you got from SI *might* be the one actually listed for the app, and the one that's in there is for some reason wider. I couldn't say what the specs of the stock one were.

nate

(yes, I do have some experience tracking down interchanges on the Web...)

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

My old CR Bearing/Seal book calls for:
'63-'66: CR 7465
'60-'62: CR 7440
'58-'59: CR 7475

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**sbca96** · 03-14-2007, 11:28 PM

OK ... I was doing some research while everyone apparently was also. I
first went to Napa with the part number and he crossed the CR. I did
not get the first one you found Nate. He found the second one right
off, and it showed Avanti as the application, as well as 62-67 Fords.

NOS7465

Unfortunately, its a special order, and they charge for shipping. They
did say they had one of the store about 100 miles north. I passed on
it for the time being, figuring I would follow up on the Ford numbers.

I got home and found it easily online :

But this doesnt help much, since its special order, so I tried looking
on the Autozone website, no listing for Stude.

So I thought I would try Kragen, they had a listing for Stude :

So I tried 1964 Mustang, it was the same number! :

So I went back to the Autozone website, but no listing for Mustang. So
I tried 64 Fairlane and they had a listing.

But that doesnt mean that the Mustang and the Fairlane use the same
part, I had to confirm that, so I looked up the whole pump, and even
though they dont carry them, they had a number - which was the same.

So we can "assume" that the Autozone Fairlane seal should work. Its
anyones guess if its the "good" one. I will see what the chance of
Kragen getting the one above in. Thats what I found so far!

Tom

**ROADRACELARK** · 03-15-2007, 08:05 AM

Tom,
I don't mean to jump ahead in your procedure, but as the front half of the pump body is laying there, you can remove the outer race just by using a couple of fingers of each hand to reach inside and slide it out. It's not an interference fit, should slide out easy. Be extra carefull to notice the tiny pin in the lower corner of of the housing where you just removed the race from. It is very easy to loose [B)]. Ask me how I know![xx(] Again...didn't mean to interupt, but some might not think the race comes out at first, but during the cleaning process is when you would discover this, and that is when the pin comes up missing.[:0] Just trying to help. Great job so far!!!

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

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