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Studebaker Power Steering Pump Rebuild - how to

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  • Steering: Studebaker Power Steering Pump Rebuild - how to

    EDIT (10/10/10) See Bob Johnstones website for the complete procedure here :

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...pspumpreb.html

    Tom

    EDIT for picture location, and to add critical Q & A thread link.

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=7602

    I decided to break this down into sections, rather than do them all
    together. This is the first of 4 parts, the subject is a 1963 Avanti
    but the basics can be applied to most early 60s Studebakers.

    I pulled the pump off a couple months ago after blowing a seal, the
    hoses and just about everything else is old & tattered. If the pump
    hadn't failed, the pressure hose was a close second, as the hose at
    the pump end had passed its expected life years before.

    Tonight I started cleaning and disassembling the pump. The pulley is
    the "keyed" style, with a thick washer and bolt. A 1/2 wrench is the
    requirement here. I used a pair of vice grips and grabbed the outer
    edge of the pulley, and rotated the pulley until the vice grips hit
    up against the pump case. I hit the wrench with a rubber mallet and
    it came loose (Poor mans impact gun). Once the bolt was loose I took
    hold of the pulley and pulled it in & out which worked it loose from
    the shaft, your level of difficulty may vary. Next was the pump case
    bolts, which hold on two of the mounting brackets. They require a 9/16
    wrench, I used the same technique for these(rubber mallet). A bit more
    cleaning was required once the brackets were off. This is as far as I
    got before getting cleaner into an open wound on my hand, this pretty
    much ended my fun for the evening. It seems the case is held together
    with dowel pins, any tips as to where to pry? Nate? Mike M?





    Tom

    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
    Last edited by sbca96; 10-10-2010, 12:50 PM. Reason: Data lost
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

  • #2
    I don't remember any special difficulty getting it apart. Mine looked awful inside. The drive pin, that keys the rotor to the shaft was breaking up; and the rollers had dug into the end plate. I figured I would clean it up and use it until I found another. Small Fords used the same. I made a new drive pin, and sanded the end plate flat. That was about six years ago. It's still working great.
    I made the mistake of not doing the whole system at the same time; and had metal particles in the ram, that later went everywhere. I trapped them, over time, with a magnet in the reservoir and a few fluid changes. You can plug the fitting on the reservoir, and run the return hose into a bottle, to flush the system. Just keep filling the reservoir.
    Be sure to use a grommet and washer, in the lid, that allow the reservoir to vent. Most kits contain parts for Fords that vent from the fill stack. They do a nice job of sealing the Stude reservoir, until it gets hot and forces fluid out.
    Mike M.

    Comment


    • #3
      I grabbed a Ford top off of a boneyard car that had the fill cap and dipstick on it..
      Jeff[8D]


      quote:Originally posted by Mike

      I don't remember any special difficulty getting it apart. Mine looked awful inside. The drive pin, that keys the rotor to the shaft was breaking up; and the rollers had dug into the end plate. I figured I would clean it up and use it until I found another. Small Fords used the same. I made a new drive pin, and sanded the end plate flat. That was about six years ago. It's still working great.
      I made the mistake of not doing the whole system at the same time; and had metal particles in the ram, that later went everywhere. I trapped them, over time, with a magnet in the reservoir and a few fluid changes. You can plug the fitting on the reservoir, and run the return hose into a bottle, to flush the system. Just keep filling the reservoir.
      Be sure to use a grommet and washer, in the lid, that allow the reservoir to vent. Most kits contain parts for Fords that vent from the fill stack. They do a nice job of sealing the Stude reservoir, until it gets hot and forces fluid out.
      Mike M.


      DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
      Brooklet, Georgia
      '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
      '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
      '61 Hawk (project)
      http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        Yah .. I had the WHOLE pump from a Ford, with the cap, dipstick & all,
        that went to the scrapyard with the Lark parts and engines.

        quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

        [b]I grabbed a Ford top off of a boneyard car that had the fill cap and dipstick on it..Jeff
        OK, this weekend I was finally able to continue taking the pump apart.
        According to the instructions, you remove the lid, and put two nuts on
        the shaft, tighten them against each other and unscrew the shaft :



        After the shaft is removed, there is a bolt in the bottom that has a
        tapped hole for the shaft. That is removed with a 1 inch socket. I
        used a rubber mallet on the wrench to "negotiate" it loose :



        Here is the bolt removed :



        The reservoir just lifts right off with the bolt out :



        Tapped on the sides with a small ball peen hammer, took a couple solid
        hits but the case started to separate. Once I got a gap, I put a wide
        blade screwdriver between the halfs and carefully twisted the handle.
        I made sure to pry near the dowel pins, and went back & forth between
        them to separate the case evenly :



        Tip the case onto the shaft side to keep the guts from falling out :



        Lift the vane side off the housing side :



        Thats as far as I got today. Doesnt seem like much I know.

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

        Comment


        • #5
          Back to mess with it a little more tonight, pulled the shaft out of
          the housing :



          Wiped of the yucky fluid :



          The gear part slides on the shaft and is held in place with a snap
          clip of some sort, and a dowel pin (any guesses as to material? Mine
          has a ridge on it - I think its supposed to be round) :



          Here is the main seal in the housing, its a nice double seal with a
          good amount of surface area :





          Grabbed my handy dandy seal puller I got from Harbor Freight (if you
          dont have one of these, you are missing out - makes life easier).



          I wasnt too impressed with the seal that came with the Stude Int kit,
          it was lighter duty, and less sealing surface area :

          outside :



          inside :





          I wonder if the Ford replacement part is better?? I think I will see
          if Napa can cross reference this number.

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #6
            Great Post! This is the information and style of post we need on the Technical section of this forum. I hope we see it going back together too! Thanks for time you took to post all the pictures! Allen

            1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
            1964 GT Hawk
            PSMCDR 2014
            Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
            PSMCDR 2013
            Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

            Victoria, Canada

            Comment


            • #7
              Tom,

              the C/R on that seal makes me think that it may be a Chicago Rawhide part, maybe you can just order the exact same part from your FLAPS?

              Let me know if that works, I'll add it to my spreadsheet.

              thanks,

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

              Comment


              • #8
                When I rebuilt the PS Pump on my 60 Lark I bought the kit from SI, but thought the seal looked inferior, so I went to my FLAPS and asked for a shaft seal to fit an Eaton PS Pump for a 60 Ford and it was an exact match to the original.


                Studebaker Fever
                60 Lark
                51 Champion
                Phil
                Arnold, Missouri

                Studebaker Fever
                60 Lark
                56 Power Hawk
                Phil Hendrickson
                Arnold, Missouri

                Comment


                • #9
                  I will bring the info to Napa and see what they come up with, I will
                  post my findings. I do not like how Stude International isnt selling
                  the BEST products available. I would rather had spent a couple more
                  bucks & got the BEST seal, then save a few & get something inferior. I
                  dont want to have to deal with this again for another 40 years or 103k
                  miles - which ever comes first![]

                  Thanks for the compliment 'R2-4-me', did you catch my fuel pump tech
                  article a little while back? I need to check with the Mod, and see if
                  we can have a sub-forum added to the main forum for "keepers". That
                  brake drum cross reference thread should be bronzed! But its lost on
                  page 14 (or something).

                  Tom
                  '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                  Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                  http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                  I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by sbca96

                    I will bring the info to Napa and see what they come up with, I will
                    post my findings. I do not like how Stude International isnt selling
                    the BEST products available. I would rather had spent a couple more
                    bucks & got the BEST seal, then save a few & get something inferior. I
                    dont want to have to deal with this again for another 40 years or 103k
                    miles - which ever comes first![]

                    Tom
                    Tom,

                    What is the part number on the original seal? I can't quite make it out in the pic. Thanks!!

                    Paul

                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html
                    Paul
                    Winston-Salem, NC
                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      All right, I punched a '61 Hawk up in the NAPA web site...

                      the *listing* for a p/s pump shaft seal is:

                      Item#: NOS7440
                      I.D.:0.7500"
                      O.D.:1.2540"
                      Width:0.2500"

                      If I try to cross reference "ER92999" I get:

                      Item#: NOS7465
                      I.D.:0.7500"
                      O.D.:1.2540"
                      Width:0.3130"

                      just FWIW... I couldn't find that part number on Chicago Rawhide's web site however, so I don't know if that's a discontinued seal, or if it was made by someone else, or what... Anyway the one you got from SI *might* be the one actually listed for the app, and the one that's in there is for some reason wider. I couldn't say what the specs of the stock one were.

                      nate

                      (yes, I do have some experience tracking down interchanges on the Web...)

                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by N8N

                        All right, I punched a '61 Hawk up in the NAPA web site...

                        the *listing* for a p/s pump shaft seal is:

                        Item#: NOS7440
                        I.D.:0.7500"
                        O.D.:1.2540"
                        Width:0.2500"

                        If I try to cross reference "ER92999" I get:

                        Item#: NOS7465
                        I.D.:0.7500"
                        O.D.:1.2540"
                        Width:0.3130"

                        just FWIW... I couldn't find that part number on Chicago Rawhide's web site however, so I don't know if that's a discontinued seal, or if it was made by someone else, or what... Anyway the one you got from SI *might* be the one actually listed for the app, and the one that's in there is for some reason wider. I couldn't say what the specs of the stock one were.

                        nate

                        (yes, I do have some experience tracking down interchanges on the Web...)

                        --
                        55 Commander Starlight
                        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                        My old CR Bearing/Seal book calls for:
                        '63-'66: CR 7465
                        '60-'62: CR 7440
                        '58-'59: CR 7475

                        Paul

                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html
                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just to give you guys a heads up...
                          Chicago Rawhide, as a company name, is no more...
                          After over 130 years of being a great American manufacturer, the current owners (SKF) put the SKF name above all else and now it is called SKF Sealing Division.. (SKF is a Swedish company and they have owned C/R for about 18 years now)....
                          But...
                          The SKF sealing divisions part numbering system is based on shaft size.
                          So, that part number 7440 means that seal will fit a .744" shaft....
                          and that 7465 seal will fit a .746" shaft. You can still have variants of the number and it cam mean a few things like single lip, double lip, nitrile rubber, Viton, etc. So you really can't just grab the numbers close to that one. SKF seals are partnered up with NAPA, so that makes it a bit easier to work with.
                          Hope the info helps...
                          Jeff[8D]


                          quote:Originally posted by r1lark

                          quote:Originally posted by N8N

                          All right, I punched a '61 Hawk up in the NAPA web site...

                          the *listing* for a p/s pump shaft seal is:

                          Item#: NOS7440
                          I.D.:0.7500"
                          O.D.:1.2540"
                          Width:0.2500"

                          If I try to cross reference "ER92999" I get:

                          Item#: NOS7465
                          I.D.:0.7500"
                          O.D.:1.2540"
                          Width:0.3130"

                          just FWIW... I couldn't find that part number on Chicago Rawhide's web site however, so I don't know if that's a discontinued seal, or if it was made by someone else, or what... Anyway the one you got from SI *might* be the one actually listed for the app, and the one that's in there is for some reason wider. I couldn't say what the specs of the stock one were.

                          nate

                          (yes, I do have some experience tracking down interchanges on the Web...)

                          --
                          55 Commander Starlight
                          http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                          My old CR Bearing/Seal book calls for:
                          '63-'66: CR 7465
                          '60-'62: CR 7440
                          '58-'59: CR 7475

                          Paul

                          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html


                          DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
                          Brooklet, Georgia
                          '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
                          '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
                          '61 Hawk (project)
                          http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

                          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                          Jeff


                          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            OK ... I was doing some research while everyone apparently was also. I
                            first went to Napa with the part number and he crossed the CR. I did
                            not get the first one you found Nate. He found the second one right
                            off, and it showed Avanti as the application, as well as 62-67 Fords.

                            NOS7465

                            Unfortunately, its a special order, and they charge for shipping. They
                            did say they had one of the store about 100 miles north. I passed on
                            it for the time being, figuring I would follow up on the Ford numbers.

                            I got home and found it easily online :



                            But this doesnt help much, since its special order, so I tried looking
                            on the Autozone website, no listing for Stude.


                            So I thought I would try Kragen, they had a listing for Stude :



                            So I tried 1964 Mustang, it was the same number! :



                            So I went back to the Autozone website, but no listing for Mustang. So
                            I tried 64 Fairlane and they had a listing.




                            But that doesnt mean that the Mustang and the Fairlane use the same
                            part, I had to confirm that, so I looked up the whole pump, and even
                            though they dont carry them, they had a number - which was the same.





                            So we can "assume" that the Autozone Fairlane seal should work. Its
                            anyones guess if its the "good" one. I will see what the chance of
                            Kragen getting the one above in. Thats what I found so far!


                            Tom
                            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Tom,
                              I don't mean to jump ahead in your procedure, but as the front half of the pump body is laying there, you can remove the outer race just by using a couple of fingers of each hand to reach inside and slide it out. It's not an interference fit, should slide out easy. Be extra carefull to notice the tiny pin in the lower corner of of the housing where you just removed the race from. It is very easy to loose [B)]. Ask me how I know![xx(] Again...didn't mean to interupt, but some might not think the race comes out at first, but during the cleaning process is when you would discover this, and that is when the pin comes up missing.[:0] Just trying to help. Great job so far!!!

                              Dan Miller
                              Atlanta, GA

                              [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
                              Road Racers turn left AND right.

                              Comment

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