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  • DWard
    replied
    Thanks to all for your input!! All good ideas. Brian---I have heard Plasticote is pretty good paint. I will check this thread from time to time if anyone else has input. Regards---Dan

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  • wdills
    replied
    The new urethane paints are much better on the body than the old lacquer and enamels. I am not sure how well they will stand up to engine temperatures over time. I would suggest checking out the product data sheets online at PPG or Dupont. They may have some info on temp ratings. If not talk to your local paint supplier and see what they have to say.

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  • rkapteyn
    replied
    If you paint with a spray can always make sure that the piece you are painting is warmed up.
    The expansion of the gas in the spay can causes a refrigeration effect that cools the paint and the piece you are painting
    causing condensation of water on the piece (humidity in the air)
    This condensation is not visible but is there.
    This condensation will prevent the paint from sticking and the paint will soon flake off.
    If you live in a dry climate you do not have this problem.
    Be safe and preheat your manifold or any other piece you are painting just a few degrees.

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  • woodysrods
    replied
    Use "plasticote" engine enamal in as close of color as you can find and you will not have a problem with gasoline.
    Good Roads.
    Brian

    Brian Woods
    woodysrods@shaw.ca
    1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

    Leave a comment:


  • DWard
    replied
    Henry-----I sprayed the paint out of a rattle can and let it sit for about a month. I put it in an oven for about 30 minutes at 200 degrees. I was wondering if a urothane (sp??) paint with a hardener would be more resistant to gas?? If I could get the stude paint code maybe I could have some mixed? Thanks for your reply---Dan

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  • Dan Timberlake
    replied
    I like to set painted ( rattle can engine enamel, wheel paint ) components a few feet in front of the 50,000 BTU reddi heater until they get just too hot to touch ( ~ 150 F ) and let them bake for an hour or so without overheating. Then let them set overnight. The next day the paint is real hard. I have not done a gas resistance test, though. It may be my imagination, but

    Alloy and even steel wheels that locate on the center bore sometimes are locked to the hub when the weather is freezing cold. Playing the reddi heater on the wheel for 5 minutes restores the normal clearance for easy removal.

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  • Henry Votel
    replied
    Hi Dan,

    Need more info. Was it from a spray can or from a can? How did you apply it?, sprayed or brushed? Did paint from the can call for a reducer or catalyst? Not enough details in your post.

    Most uncatalyzed paint will react to gasoline whether sprayed or from a can for some time after application. Often the paint doesn't really get semi impervious until after the engine runs and it gets baked.

    Henry Votel,
    Forest Lake, MN
    Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum

    Leave a comment:


  • DWard
    started a topic Paint Question

    Paint Question

    I bought the Turquoise (sp?) engine paint for my engine and painted one of the motor mounts. The paint dried inside the house for at least a month. I tested a small spot by putting gasoline on it for about a minute and then wiped it off. I was disappointed to see that it had etched the paint pretty badly. Is there no paint that holds up to gasoline? I bought this paint from Fairborn Studebaker. I wanted the original factory color for my engine. The motor is being totally rebuilt---stripped down to the bare block.

    Regards-----Dan (57 Silver Hawk)
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