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Spark Plug to Distributor wiring diagram?

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  • showbizkid
    replied
    Hey Wayne - congratulations! Feels great, don't it??!

    I just wanted to point out one thing. In an earlier post, you said you figured that, like some other cars, a Stude distributor would only go in two ways. Actually, that's not correct. You can install it however you like! The distributor drive gear and the oil pump drive tang are not mechanically linked by anything but the distributor shaft. So, if your rotor position is off, all you have to do is pull the distributor, clock the rotor to about 30 degrees clockwise of the position you want it when it's installed, and as it drops in, the rotor will turn CCW to the position you want!

    Obviously you figured this out already, but I just wanted to clarify for the benefit of future newbies who might come across this thread.

    Keep rockin! Can't wait to see the photos!


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

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  • wdills
    replied
    Thanks for all the input guys. I got the car running tonight.

    Turns out I did have the wires right, just needed to give the distributor a little turn. [:I]

    I'll put up another topic how we got to this point.

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  • N8N
    replied
    The engine was stuck? If so did you free it with penetrating oil in the cylinders? If so it'll be real hard to start and you might need to change the plugs before it will catch. It'll run like crap for a while too until the rings free up and all the oil burns off. Maybe try starting it on 24V just to get it running, then hook it up right once you've got it lit off?

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • Tom Bredehoft
    replied
    Static time it.

    Put the No. 1 piston on TDC, compression, put a continuity check on the points. Rotate the distributor until the check lights up, or goes out. this will put the timing very close to TDC.

    Take the check off so there is no jumper on the distributor, and try it. It should fire. Once its' running, disconnect the vacuum line and use the timing light to set it, 6 or 8 degrees advanced.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    ....On the road, again....
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

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  • wdills
    replied
    I have had a timing light on cylinder #1 and it is firing or at least it is getting a spark to the plug. I haven't pulled the plug yet to verify it fires. They are new plugs so I hope they fire. I did verify that the rotor button is pointing to #1 when it comes up on the compression stroke. The car hasn't run since I got it, in fact the engine was stuck when I bought it.

    Carb is getting fuel. I cranked the enginer before hooking up the fuel line to the carb, just to be sure everything was working.

    It does sputter a bit just won't start and run. I haven't installed new points and condensor. Once I cleaned up the points that were in there they started working so I didn't bother to replace them. When I spin the engine with the distributor cap off, I can see to arc when the points open, and as I said the timing light shows it is firing.

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  • wecklund
    replied
    Are you getting spark at all? Is it sputtering or not even hitting? Did you just replace the points and/or condenser or just return the ones that didn't fit? I guess thatn I'm just trying to back track to when it ran; to figure out what may have changed.

    Leave a comment:


  • N8N
    replied
    did you check that #1 is firing on the compression stroke? it is possible to install the dist. 180 degrees out and that won't cause a problem with the oil pump engaging. (assuming that it was removed at some point; if it was running before and you didn't remove the dist. then that is not your problem)

    if you just reinstalled a fresh rebuilt carb, is it getting fuel? You may have to crank for a long time to fill the bowls, or you could shortcut the process by just dumping a capful of fuel straight into the primaries to help the engine catch. If your fuel pump is weak it might take even longer than normal - have you ever rebuilt the fuel pump? Checked the sediment bowl?

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • wdills
    replied
    Thanks Nate,I was posting my reply above at the same time you were posting. That link answers a lot. Looks like we have the firing order right and according to your post, #1 doesn't have to be straight in front for the car to run. Guess I look elsewhere.

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  • N8N
    replied
    you could just twist it until it runs, unless the advance can hits something (or you have the original hard vacuum line)

    otherwise, see my post or the link in my post. It will only go in two ways but if it's not clocked right to the oil pump it's an easy fix.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • wdills
    replied
    OK, in that case I think we have it right. The diagram in Dads old book matched up with what you just described and the firing order on the intake manifold.

    Your post did make me remember something else. When we roll the engine where #1 is at TDC and the pointer is on the ign mark, the rotor button is not pointing straight at the front of the engine it is pointing off to the driver side a little, maybe at the drivers side headlight. I marked the position on the cap that the button was pointing to and called that #1 when installing plug wires. The button was pointing at the first location counter clockwise from directly toward the front of the engine.

    I assume that a Stude engine is like others I have worked on where the distributor will only go in 2 ways, in which case pulling it and rotating it 180 would make it way off from where it should be. So I left it where it was.

    Do I need to pull the distributor and re-install? If so how do I get the oil pump shaft to line up with the distributor in its new position?

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  • N8N
    replied
    the reason the "window" wasn't used on the Hawks was because the Hawks were still using the Stewart-Warner "pulse drive" tach and the "window" distributor used a different cap/rotor than the older dist. so the sender wouldn't have fit. I guess they decided that keeping the older dist. and sender was better than having to get a different sender for the Hawks, or maybe S-W didn't have one for the "window" dist? Anyway, if you don't have a tach, it doesn't really matter. (Larks never did, until 1963, by which time they were using electronic tachs.)

    Anyway, firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and rotates CCW.

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...studefind1.jpg

    to be "show correct" #1 should be the forward most terminal on the dist, but this is not a hard and fast rule. Tom's method works fine if you don't care about such; if you *do* care, set the dist up with everything in the correct position, don't worry if the oil pump drive is not engaged, have a helper crank the car *with the coil wire disconnected* while you lightly press down on the dist cap, when everything lines up it will drop all the way in. Tighten everything up and make sure you have oil pressure before you reconnect the coil wire and try to start the car.

    good luck

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • Tom Bredehoft
    replied
    There were four or 5 different distributors used in the Studebaker V8s, and all will pretty much interchange.

    Pull the cap, pull the no. 1 (Front left) spark plug. Put your finger in the spark plug hole, turn the engine over slowly until you feel pressure coming up on your finger. Remove finger, rotate engine until the timing mark on the harmonic balencer is at the pointer. At this point your Nol 1 cylinder is at top dead center. Now, with the dist cap removed, notice that the pointer on the rotor is pointing nearly straight forward. This is where the wire from the No. 1 spark plug should be plugged in. Find on the front of the intake manifold, the firing sequence. The second number is the second plug to fire. Locate that wire and plug it in the next hole. "Which" you say "is the next hole?" bump the starter and notice which way the rotor turns, that's where the next (and following ) holes will be.

    When you're done, the cap will be on (snap both retainers) and all 8 plug wires will be in the right place. This is pretty well critical to the operation of the engine. Make sure the coil wire is still plugged in to the dist cap and the coil, and try the engine. If it doesn't start, there are other problems.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    ....On the road, again....
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

    Leave a comment:


  • wdills
    started a topic Spark Plug to Distributor wiring diagram?

    Spark Plug to Distributor wiring diagram?

    I have a 59 hawk with a 289. Someone has installed a window type distributor from a Lark or maybe swapped the entire engine from a Lark. I just don't have the distributor that is supposed to be on a Hawk. I know this because I just returned the incorrect tune-up kit I bought from SI.[:I]

    Anyway, I got my carb back from from the mechanic that rebuilt it. Installed the carb. Opened up the shop manuals I bought for the car looking for a plug wire diagram. I can't find one. Is there one there? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Can anybody point me to the correct page?

    Does anybody have a diagram showing plug wiring from distributor to plugs? I assume there is no difference in firing order and connections between the Lark 289 and Hawk 289. Is this a valid assumption? I am still trying to figure out why they had 2 different distributors for a 289 just because it was in a different body.

    I found a plug wire connection diagram in an old car service manual Dad had for late 50's models. Hooked everything up and tried the car with no luck. I just want to make sure I have the plug connections right before I start digging to much into other areas.

    Thanks for the help
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