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  • My project from hades

    Guys - this is a 62 Stude V8 in my 63 Lark sedan, where a six used to be. I believe the engine came with a PCV stuck in the back of the carb. I still have it and it appears to do the rattle and pass air one way fine.

    When I received a rebuilt carb from a known Stude all-round good guy vendor, whose advice is golden...the carb had an open pipe nib down at the spot where I had the PCV. So, taking the path of least resistance, I secured a hose from that nib running down to the road draft tube, which instead of having the long tube down the back of the engine, also has a pipe nib for what I presume is supposed to be the other connection.

    In short, is the engine properly vented this way? Thanks!

  • #2
    I'm not sure I completely understand what you have, but you can have a PVC system OR a road draft tube...but not both.

    If you have a road draft tube coming out of the valley cover, any opening on the carb base or manifold should be plugged. The crankcase will breath in from the oil filler cap and out the road draft tube.

    If you have a PVC system, you should have a PVC valve between the base of the carb and the valley cover (no road tube). Various PVC valves were (and can be) used. The crankcase will breath in from the oil filler cap and out the PVC valve. You MUST have a PVC valve in this line, however.

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      As long as you have a source of inlet air into the engine i.e. a vented oil filler cap, etc. I see no reason why feeding the road draft tube to the carb with a PCV valve in series would be a problem.

      In fact; many years ago in California it was mandatory to have PCV retrofitted to at least 1955 cars and light trucks.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
      --------------------------------------

      Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

      Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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      • #4
        My 62 Hawk has a simular setup, it was a California delivered car. Mine had a hose up from the back of the valley cover 5/16 ID. to the carb with the pcv valve installed inline. I have the Stude part # for it as I just changed mine,1558379, which I got from SI.. Everything that you can find at your local parts store has one end that is much larger, to fit into a grommit in your chev valve cover. Know that you don't have one of those. I believe that the screw in pcv valve was a 63 & 64 thing. Lou Cote [8D]

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        • #5


          This is the way the carb came. Wet gas all around the base. What's up with that?



          The way I had it hooked up with the hose going down to the valley cover. Found oil fouled plugs so I figure the hook-up is wrong and I'm not venting my crankcase enough..? Should I remove this pipe nib and install the PCV or just plug it? I'm getting vacuum off the manifold for my brake booster.
          Thanks guys!

          Comment


          • #6
            Tom,
            With that set up, there should be a PCV valve SOMEWHERE in the line from the carb to the valley cover. You could use the one stuck in the back of the old carb, OR you can just get an in line one from your FLAPS. Just make sure it is installed in the same direction as the one that was in the back of the carb.

            The wet carb base is probably the float level set too high, but could be bad needle and seat, high fuel pressure, bad carb gaskets, loose carb screws/bolts.

            The Avanti I just got (the one I swindled you out of ) has a carb that was rebuilt by a BIG name in Stude carbs. I have the invoice and it was quite thorough and expensive. The car only ran on 4 cylinders when I got it home. I pulled the top off the carb and the right float was adjusted so that there was no drop...that carb bowl was empty. [:0]. Adjusting the floats correctly made it run like a scalded rabbit.

            The oil fouled plugs are probably not a result of poor crankcase ventilation. In fact, with your set up you were ventilating the crankcase much more than if you had a PVC valve installed. If it's a new engine, the rings probably need to seat. If an old engine, the first thing I would change is the valve guide seals. Relatively easy and cheap and usually the cause.

            Are you sure they are OIL fouled? With the carb pouring that much gas, could they be black due to an over rich mixture?

            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

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            • #7
              Thanks, all! I took the carb apart, blew air through the gas inlet and checked the float drop. Everything looked fine but a few of the nuts holding the carb on the manifold weren't tight, so that may have been part of my problem. (duh!)

              I opened up the PCV, cleaned within and just cut it into the hose to the valley cover. Uhh, the airflow going from the engine to the carb. Knowing me, I'd have it backwards. []

              Now to get a bum starter and alternator that isn't charging fixed.
              As Roseanna would say...

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              • #8
                One more thing to check, did the carb base gasket that you got with the rebuilt carb match exactly the old gasket? In other words with the engine running if you pull pcv hose off does it die right away? Just a thought. Lou Cote [8D]

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                • #9
                  Lou - Seems to me I used a gasket about the same thickness as the old one. I will try the idea when I get her running again, thanks!

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                  • #10
                    Tom are you using fuel/pcv hose for the line to your vacuum booster? You should use vacuum booster hose only, thicker wall,won't collapse. Lou Cote [8D]

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