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WIRING PROBLEM ON 50 COMMANDER

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  • WIRING PROBLEM ON 50 COMMANDER

    Hi...Just spent 3 hours to no avail..here is my problem.
    I removed the cluster gauge to be sent out for repair..I now want to install the cluster back in the car and even tho I tagged the wires where they were, the following occurs when i start the engine.
    #1..the gas gauge pegs down past the empty mark.
    #2..the ammeter goes to discharge.
    The wiring for the cluster has been rewired with non original colors so color schematics would not help me..
    Can anyone think of a method to find out where the individual wires go on the gauge cluster ?
    In order to not have to keep pulling the gauge back out each time I try a change of wire position i have run a jumper wire from the body of the car to one of the installation post on the back of the cluster as a ground..I presume the ground is sufficient...John

  • #2
    dumb question, but one that has to be asked - you did hook this all up with the *positive* terminal grounded, yes?

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Comment


    • #3
      Nate has asked the same first question I would ask.
      It sounds like you might be able to just reverse the
      wires on the ammeter. Could be a process of elimination
      with a meter.

      Tex E. Grier

      Comment


      • #4
        The car has been converted to 12 volt by the previous owner and so it is now negative ground vs originally positive ground...John


        quote:Originally posted by zoegrant

        Hi...Just spent 3 hours to no avail..here is my problem.
        I removed the cluster gauge to be sent out for repair..I now want to install the cluster back in the car and even tho I tagged the wires where they were, the following occurs when i start the engine.
        #1..the gas gauge pegs down past the empty mark.
        #2..the ammeter goes to discharge.
        The wiring for the cluster has been rewired with non original colors so color schematics would not help me..
        Can anyone think of a method to find out where the individual wires go on the gauge cluster ?
        In order to not have to keep pulling the gauge back out each time I try a change of wire position i have run a jumper wire from the body of the car to one of the installation post on the back of the cluster as a ground..I presume the ground is sufficient...John

        Comment


        • #5
          Tex...i have tried reversing the ammeter wires to no avail...how would the meter help me ?.....John

          quote:Originally posted by Flashback

          Nate has asked the same first question I would ask.
          It sounds like you might be able to just reverse the
          wires on the ammeter. Could be a process of elimination
          with a meter.

          Tex E. Grier

          Comment


          • #6
            I think you have to determine what you have first of all. For example, the gas gauge has 1 wire from the tank and another fron a power source like the accessory terminal of the ignition switch. I would put another wire on the sending unit and use the added wire to find the dash end of the tank to gauge wire using the meter to find continuity. The gauge should have 1 terminal marked "ign". The wire from the sending unit goes to the other terminal. Then trace the wire(s) from the ign terminal and so on. Not a fun task. Good luck.

            Don

            Comment


            • #7
              What would make the gas gauge peg down to below empty instead of going up ?...could it be possible that some thing is reversed in the sender on the tank?

              quote:Originally posted by dong

              I think you have to determine what you have first of all. For example, the gas gauge has 1 wire from the tank and another fron a power source like the accessory terminal of the ignition switch. I would put another wire on the sending unit and use the added wire to find the dash end of the tank to gauge wire using the meter to find continuity. The gauge should have 1 terminal marked "ign". The wire from the sending unit goes to the other terminal. Then trace the wire(s) from the ign terminal and so on. Not a fun task. Good luck.

              Don

              Comment


              • #8
                No, it is not possible that something is reversed on the sender. The sender has only one wire. The float in the tank changes the resistance to the gauge. Was this working before you pulled out the gauges?

                Don

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well, if this is a 6V cluster and you did not tell the repairer that you were running 12V you will need a "runtz" on the gas gauge - and on the temp gauge as well, unless it is a mechanical type. The ammeter should work as is, but it'll read backwards unless you swap the wires around.

                  That doesn't explain the gas gauge pegging *down* - perhaps it is hooked up incorrectly?

                  nate

                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Gas gauge was not working before i sent the gauge out for repair ...The sender seemed to be ok...John

                    quote:Originally posted by dong

                    No, it is not possible that something is reversed on the sender. The sender has only one wire. The float in the tank changes the resistance to the gauge. Was this working before you pulled out the gauges?

                    Don

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      there is a voltage reducer on the back of the gauges...

                      quote:Originally posted by N8N

                      Well, if this is a 6V cluster and you did not tell the repairer that you were running 12V you will need a "runtz" on the gas gauge - and on the temp gauge as well, unless it is a mechanical type. The ammeter should work as is, but it'll read backwards unless you swap the wires around.

                      That doesn't explain the gas gauge pegging *down* - perhaps it is hooked up incorrectly?

                      nate

                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        OK...here is my status on this instrument cluster gauge.
                        As you know the main problem was getting the fuel gauge to work...After a few hours of trying to get the gauge to work by switching the wires all around, I deceided to pull the sensor in the tank and hook up a long wire to it and a ground wire also, so I could sit in the drivers seat and move the float up and down to see if the gauge would register...It did...I could get it to go from empty to full but i could not stop it at a 1/2 tank or the like...it went to either full or empty...I partially reinstalled it back into the dash by only one brackett and when I turned the key on it went to full as it should have as my tank is full. I went for a ride and then my gauge would occilate between full and 1/3 full, i am thinking that maybe it loses ground when i hit a bump as i only have one braket holding it in place ...even tho the weight of the gauge resting inside the opening with only one bracket would seem to be enough for a ground ....it also seems to me that the gauge when operated by hand out of the car should be able to register 1/2 a tank or 1/4 or what ever when I moved the float...Do you not agree ?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The gauge should show at other than "Full' & "Empty" when you manually change the resistance.
                          BUT-- it will react slowly, so wait a while at the setting.
                          The 1950 Champion Starlight
                          Santa Barbara
                          CA

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            When I moved the float rod the gauge immediately shot up to full..no gradual incline to full, just immediately within 1 second went to full ?

                            quote:Originally posted by starlightchamp

                            The gauge should show at other than "Full' & "Empty" when you manually change the resistance.
                            BUT-- it will react slowly, so wait a while at the setting.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              John i was suggesting a meter to run down the wires.
                              However, it seems the fuel guage is all that is now a
                              problem? Is this the case? If so, sounds like a bad
                              tank unit. How ya commin, on this project?

                              Tex E. Grier

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