Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Leaf spring bushings and fan clearance

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    PLEASE keep the info coming. I am going the same route with a cross flow aluminum radiator in my Heaterbaker.And I too will have to devise some mounts. I am just waiting for Spring to do it.Thanks.

    Comment


    • #17
      I too had this same problem with my "warmed up" 289. I tried differnt fans, sdrouds, etc. I looked at having my original radiator recored, as I figured it was most of the problem. No one in my area would even mess with it as they all said it had an obsolete core. They called it a "bucket head" or something like that. So I bought a universal aluminum radiator from summit. Put a big pusher fan in front of it and tried it out. It solved the problem totally. Runs 160-180 when hot. Less when cold outside. It pretty much fell into place. I am going to do a little more at some point to make it look more "finished". This winter I totally removed the factory fan and am going to try it with just the pusher. It has not been warm enough to really test, but I think it is going to work. If it does, then I will be getting rid of more weight on an already nose heavy car. One question though, if it does work, should I move the fan to the other side and make it a puller? This fan can be wired to run either direction. I'll post some pics later.

      66 Commander R1 Clone
      51 Commander 4dr
      1962 Champ

      51 Commander 4 door

      Comment


      • #18
        quote:Originally posted by Kurt

        I too had this same problem with my "warmed up" 289. I tried differnt fans, shrouds, etc. I looked at having my original radiator recored, as I figured it was most of the problem. No one in my area would even mess with it as they all said it had an obsolete core. They called it a "bucket head" or something like that. So I bought a universal aluminum radiator from Summit. Put a big pusher fan in front of it and tried it out. It solved the problem totally. Runs 160-180 when hot. Less when cold outside. It pretty much fell into place. I am going to do a little more at some point to make it look more "finished". This winter I totally removed the factory fan and am going to try it with just the pusher. It has not been warm enough to really test, but I think it is going to work. If it does, then I will be getting rid of more weight on an already nose heavy car. One question though, if it does work, should I move the fan to the other side and make it a puller? This fan can be wired to run either direction. I'll post some pics later.

        66 Commander R1 Clone
        51 Commander 4dr
        Wow, that's encouraging Kurt. Which car do you have it in?
        I read somewhere that elec. fans work best as a puller. Probably because the built-in shroud is now in backwards.
        In the Lark , the only choice I had was to put it in front of the radiator. Glad to hear that the old style rads had less cooling capacity for a given area. Guess the salesman wasn't just giving me a sales pitch. My new rad doesn't have mounting ears, I bought a channel from him that it will rest on the rad support. Looks like an easy install.
        Another thing, a lot of cars in the '70s to '80s had a chin spoiler (usually flat black) under the front bumper. I read this creates a low pressure area behind the rad, drawing the air in faster. Must be something to it, all the manufactures were using it.
        Check out the Stewart Performance website, excellent article on cooling systems and system mods.
        Now, if I just can get my car in the garage.............!

        Art

        Comment


        • #19
          Got the radiator out today, need to trim 1/4 in. off each side of the support for the alum rad.. The job would be much easier if the support was out of the car. Is it practical to remove it as the weight of the front end sheet metal seems to be resting on the support? While it is out, I would lenghten each side 1" to drop the rad for better clearance at the top.

          Comment


          • #20
            Got the radiator out today, need to trim 1/4 in. off each side of the support for the alum rad.. The job would be much easier if the support was out of the car. Is it practical to remove it as the weight of the front end sheet metal seems to be resting on the support? While it is out, I would lenghten each side 1" to drop the rad for better clearance at the top.

            Comment


            • #21
              The front sheet metal all bolts to the u shaper radiator holder,and would be called the core support AFAIK.

              Comment


              • #22
                quote:Originally posted by ChampTrucking

                The front sheet metal all bolts to the u shaper radiator holder,and would be called the core support AFAIK.
                Thanks for the heads-up Champ. Not sure if it would come out without removing the fenders. Only need 1/4 in. off each side, not disturbing the spot welds. I started trimming the support with a die grinder today, but ran out of time. I have good access with the grille out. Keep ya posted.........Art

                Comment

                Working...
                X