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Hidden Blower on a '59 Lark

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  • 4961Studebaker
    replied
    []

    ChopStu

    119 weeks till completion.

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  • roadhugger55
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Relark


    Here's a pix of the blower, fits up tight to the hood. I had to remove the cross brace and install an extra prop rod on the driver's side. Trimming the carb plenum at the carb flange gave enough clearace under the hood. The car is completely stock from the outside down to the skinny tires and hubcaps. I'll post a pix of the car if you like, couldn't figure out how to paste two pictures at the same time from Photobucket

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!
    wes nordal

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  • roadhugger55
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Relark


    Here's a pix of the blower, fits up tight to the hood. I had to remove the cross brace and install an extra prop rod on the driver's side. Trimming the carb plenum at the carb flange gave enough clearace under the hood. The car is completely stock from the outside down to the skinny tires and hubcaps. I'll post a pix of the car if you like, couldn't figure out how to paste two pictures at the same time from Photobucket

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!
    wes nordal

    Leave a comment:


  • Relark
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by ChampTrucking

    Hey Art,that was a good friend who did my lead work. I know about those thermostat suggestions from my early years working @ Chicago Auto Radiator but it was good to see them in print for any newbies. I had tried to return one of your emails but it bounced. Send me your number and I will call you. Thanks.
    Try my e-mail: lark@tampabay.rr.com or larkdeville@yahoo.com

    How did you fit the 6 blade fan between the radiator and waterpump? Is there more room in a '61 Lark than the '59? Also, I'd like to discuss other issues with you about the install. Hope to hear from you soon.

    Art

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

    Leave a comment:


  • Relark
    replied
    Meant to say "bushings on the front spring eye", not front springs..
    Art

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

    Leave a comment:


  • Relark
    replied
    Champ Trucking: Phone # sent, try my e-mail lark@tampabay.rr.com
    Mike: I used a Holley "Blue" pump on my 500 BB Caddy pushing thru the mechanical pump, reg. set at 5 PSI, only turned it on when I needed it. It only lasted 1 yr. of intermittent use. Think I should try one again?
    Gary: Thanks for the props!
    Studekid: I have 4" tire to spring/frame clearance. I could have some custom steelies made up. I'd like to keep the White Walls/hubcaps if possible. How wide are your "295"s. Did you have straight line control problems, or just hammerin' thru the corners? I'm probably a little older than you and have lowered testosterone which may help the sideways problem......
    Question: I saw a post somewhere using poly bushings from a Jeep on the spring shackles. Any info on that, mine are worn out and I'm guessing the front spring are bushings too.

    Art

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

    Leave a comment:


  • studebakerkid
    replied
    Why did you not weld in some extra cross menbers onto the frame and wheel tub it? Them skinny tires in back are going to get you in trouble sooner then later. I am running 295 50 R 15 Daytonas on the back of Pinkie and even with them and being naturally aspirated with a bored and stroked 350 with 10.25 :1 I have to watch it to not slide the back end sideways.

    If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

    65 2dr sedan
    64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
    61 V8 Tcab
    61 Tcab 20R powered
    55 Commander Wagon
    54 Champion Wagon
    46 Gibson Model A
    50 JD MC

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  • studegary
    replied
    Thanks for the pictures and description of your sharp car and installation.
    It is nice that there still some of us that know to "hardtop" the car when taking pictures.


    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    Relark -

    You might want to rethink the Airtex fuel pump.
    At least go to a high pressure Carter pump, and regulate it down to 7.5psi.
    There are many electric fuel pumps on the market that will work fine, the Airtex isn't one of them. Not enough volume/pressure.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • ChampTrucking
    replied
    Hey Art,that was a good friend who did my lead work. I know about those thermostat suggestions from my early years working @ Chicago Auto Radiator but it was good to see them in print for any newbies. I had tried to return one of your emails but it bounced. Send me your number and I will call you. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Relark
    replied
    Hey Champ Trucking, Lead filled seams? Wow, you have a lot of skill! I think the '61 is about the same hood shape, you may have been able to use a plenum like mine. The 400 siamaese cylinder block was a screamer, I had one in a C3 'Vette with 3.55 gears, 3200 lbs. wet weight, and it was one of the faster cars I've ever owened. The siamese block was noted for cooling problems back in the day, hence the 400 crank in a 350 block yielding 383 cu.in.. That combo is still extremely popular, 400+ HP, naturally aspirated. You done a lot more for cooling than I have, I have just a pusher fan in front of the radiator. It runs 180-190F down here in FL in 85-90F. Long idling in traffic, it moves up to 200+ and then I got take a side street or park it. I dont have room water pump to radiator for a fan. I looking to see if I can move the radiator 1 1/2" forward to gain more clearance for a shroud and fan. I was using just a electric fan on my 500" Caddy in another car, ran hot all the time, put the stock fan and shrould back in, problem solved. 160F t-stat shouldn't help your situation, it just lets the eng. warm up slower. If the wrong head gasket was used without the "steam holes" it'll never run cool. Alumunum heads may run a little cooler as they conduct heat better. Try running water only with a rust inhibitor, water conducts heat better than 50/50 mix. Don't remove the stat, coolant runs too fast thru the rad. If you must, get a ring to replace it or gut the innards. I wouldn't remove the blower snout, remove the 4 holddown bolts instead. remember, 10 ft.lbs. max torque. Send me a PM and I'll give you my phone no., I've got a few more things to mention.
    Art

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

    Leave a comment:


  • ChampTrucking
    replied
    Art My Lark is a 61. I have the unpolished Weiand 142 blower. Got a 4 steel inch cowl induction scoop welded to the hood. It had a crack on the underside which caused water to leach under and its now bubbling. It's a shame as it was finished with lead and a skim coat of bondo.
    Here it is with lead finished,awaiting skim of bondo.
    My motor by the casting numbers is a 400. I got it from a good friend who bought a Nova project in Tennessee. The motor was freshly rebuilt and ran great.He yanked it for a 454 since he was building a Yenko clone.I got the motor for next to nothing,threw the blower on it and slid it in. The internals are a mystery,but it has been a screamer .I would like to throw Vortec heads on it and maybe a different cam,but it is plenty of motor now,and I have some serious budget concerns right now so I will just enjoy it as is as long as I can. How is your heat issue? When it is real hot and humid my car can run warm even with a 3 row core radiator,6 blade flex fan and a shroud. I have a 180 degree thermostat. You ever pull the blower snout to change the thermostat? I wouldn't mind a 160 T stat. Do you have a electric pusher fan hidden behind the grill? If so,which brand and model fit? If I go that route,I would like to copy a proven combination rather than spend money and time foolishly. Thanks.

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  • johnod
    replied
    Rekark

    Thanks for the offer, but I did all that, and it was a no go, the snout seemed to be the main problem as I recall, due to hood slope.

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  • Relark
    replied

    No clearance problem, just a blister-pack housing off the hook at the chrome dip-stick aisle at Advance Auto.
    Johnod, I'll measure the distance from the top of the valve covers to the top of plenum or other spot if that will help. Manifold blower flange meas. to top of plenum N/G as it sits lower than most intake manifolds.
    Blowers are great, pleasant whine noise, instant power and respect, just like 20" bicepts! (I wear long sleeves, no sleepers there....)

    Art

    '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

    Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

    Leave a comment:


  • johnod
    replied


    I'm jealous. I measured, to see if I could get a b&m blower under the hood of a 53 coupe, and it looks like a big old no.
    Your setup looks great.

    Leave a comment:

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